Today we celebrate 65 years since Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 51 years since Hornul Mare-Negru (Bucura II - Peretele Nord-Estic) first ascent, 1 year since Muchia din dreapta Vaii lui Ivan (Valea lui Ivan) first ascent

Hornul Izvorului 4+
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added by Alex Cruceru la data de 28.11.2019
edited by Ad Min la data de 17.02.2020

General characteristics

Rotpunkt grade: 4+
Quickdraws: a minimum of 7 loops-fitted,
Type: Trad

 Hornul Izvorului 
Length: 5 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


Cams/NutsMechanical anchorsPitons

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ovidiu Pop, Alex Cruceru
Date: 11.08.2019

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

"I've got it in front of the western Buteanului the first time, in July 2016, along with Gabi's Ruica to the Rescue of Arges, in the Classical course, and I was very pleasantly surprised. The next day, I went to a new line at the right of the trail on a ridge, which we later called it the Edge of the beautiful. The rock is beautiful, and even though there are many areas to loose there are a lot of parts that are suitable for the use of the security of the mobile.

In the year 2019, together with Alex Cruceru I decided to look at other lines on the wall of your adventure. On November 11, 2019 in case of a prolonged and drawn up the face of the west, I found a line that looked appealing and we decided to take a walk. The result is out of line, which I called a Chimney this spring, following a small stream, which is at the beginning of the length of the latter. On September 15, 2019 to, I was once again drawn to the new front west of the Buteanului, is committed to equipping regroup from the Chimney of the Springs to the anchors to increase the safety of traveling in the us for further studies, we found a new line in the right-hand trail the Edge of the beautiful, which we have called the Path of the Clouds." (Make It)

LC1: 3+/4-; 56m. The entrance to the trail is marked with red paint at the bottom (possibly in the winter you don't see it). The first pitch starts to the left of the classic route on the foot of the face of the western Buteanului, starting with a small chimney which makes the access to the edge of the foot, which is followed by a zone in which it decreases the slope, heading directly into a chimney, a big one, obviously. At the pool there is an anchor with a plaque, which will be supplemented by the insurance mobile on the right hand side.

LC2: 4; 50. Go straight up the chimney towards the ceiling, obviously (there's an arrow for guidance), which circumvents the right to a wider one, that the easy path. Still, it had a dihedral slightly left, it goes on a drain that has a grouping on the right-hand side of a dock plate, which make obligatory the insurance of mobile.

LC3: 3; 52m. It is run from the pool to the a pillar slightly to the right, you can ask the insurance of the mobile, and then it goes up to the chimney top of the ridge where you can see very clearly all the way back. The grouping is about 5-6m on the right side of the front of the entrance to the chimney. It is a long easy slope of the is slow. In the pool we have as an anchor to the wafer, and a crack great for frienduri, tricame, etc.

LC4: 4+; 50. The pool is walk left a few meters up to a dihedral obvious that it is being attacked at the front, and then we're heading straight for the entrance of the chimney to the ridge. We have a ball python, right after the dihedral, and prior to the step of the route, which is in the chimney. We have multiple insurance policy with the protection your mobile. Immediately after the chimney, overcome the a pillar on the left, in order to avoid an area of crumbly, and then we're off to a gutter, and in a few meters we find the bringing together, where we have a dock plate that must be supplemented by the insurance mobile.

LC5: 3; 55 meters. In the following, it is next to the chute on the right-hand side of the ridge, until it reaches the math on the ridge. Follow the ridge to a small saddle where you can kind of regroup around the corner of the cliff. There are two options: urmariea crest of the math up to the ridge of the main or follow-up of the box from the right side of the ridge to the top of Vânatarea natural reservation. This is the length you can scroll through at the same time.
Information source
Descriere: Ovidiu Pop, Alex Cruceru

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: It's going on the scoreboard at the Apollo, until the Valley of the Vaiuga, then it's straight on to the base of the wall.
Access duration: 30 min
Retreat route: For the Peak. Vânatarea his natural reservation, and move the marker up to that Date.
Retreat duration: 50 min


Hornul Izvorului

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Hornul Izvorului

Users who climbed the route

Alex Cruceru - 11.08.2019
- 11.08.2019

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Access route: It's going on the scoreboard at the Apollo, until the Valley of the Vaiuga, then it's straight on to the base of the wall.
Retreat route: For the Peak. Vânatarea his natural reservation, and move the marker up to that Date.


Rope: Semicorzi to 60m
Quickdraws: a minimum of 7 loops-fitted,
Cams and nuts: a minimum of 7 loops-fitted,
Additional equipment: a minimum of 7 loops-fitted,
Hornul Izvorului