Today we celebrate 28 years since Hornul de la Curtea Oţelei (Peretele Oţelei) first ascent

Traseul Norilor 5c
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added by Alex Cruceru la data de 28.11.2019
edited by Ad Min la data de 17.02.2020

General characteristics

Rotpunkt grade: 5c
Quickdraws: The 12 loops are equipped
Type: Trad

 Traseul Norilor 
Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


Cams/NutsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsPitons

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ovidiu Pop, Alex Cruceru
Date: 16.09.2019

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

"I've got it in front of the western Buteanului the first time, in July 2016, along with Gabi's Ruica to the Rescue of Arges, in the Classical course, and I was very pleasantly surprised. The next day, I went to a new line at the right of the Trail on a ridge, which we later called it the Edge of the beautiful. The rock is beautiful, and even though there are many areas in bulk there are a lot of parts that are suitable for the use of the security of the mobile.
In the year 2019, together with Alex Cruceru I decided to look at other lines on the wall of your adventure. On November 11, 2019 in case of a prolonged and drawn up the face of the west, I found a line that looked appealing and we decided to take a walk. The result is out of line, which I called a Chimney this spring, following a small stream, which is at the beginning of the length of the latter. On September 15, 2019 to, I was once again drawn to the new front west of the Buteanului, is committed to equipping regroup from the Chimney of the Springs to the anchors to increase the safety of traveling in the us for further studies, we found a new line in the right-hand trail the Edge of the beautiful, which we have called the Path of the Clouds." (Make It)

LC1: 4/5; 56m. The trail is marked with paint on the base. The first leg started on the dihedral of the vertical, which continues to cope with the number of possibilities of insurance with the protection of the mobile, it is almost a vertical up before 8, out of the pool when it is over a little vertical. In the pool, we have an anchor plate and an anchor, chemical. From there, you can withdraw the booster.

LC2: 4; 50. It begins on a slope is less inclined, with the tufts of grass at the base of the chimney. To the left of the chimney before the chimney is a side of me that gets 15 yards up to a wider one, that slash, which leads to the pool. On one side, flat on the left-hand side we see an anchor, chemical anchor with the plate.

LC3: 3; 52m. The pool is going vertical on one side, a friable to a wider one, that înerbata, which is next to the left side at the base of the two chimneys. Over the entire length of it is seen the tower of Buteanului, as a point of orientation for the direction of the next. Follow the chimney to the right, slow down, after the passing of his reach at the front, green roof, atop of which you begin face down, where it combines the 2 anchors with the board.

LC4: 6; 55 meters. The pool is the following the girdle to the right, to the front of the chimney a vertical, where we can see a few feet in height, a ball python, but there are several places of insurance protection for your mobile. Follow the chimney vertically, then trough the 2 cams the next up to the next chimney, passing over a large rock embedded with a diameter of 2 feet. From out the rock the sea there is what? Follow the chimney, the vertical, and it's coming out in a gutter after a less than 3-4 m, we get slightly to the right of the peak Vânatarea natural reservation.
Information source
Descriere: Ovidiu Pop, Alex Cruceru

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: It's going to the Apollo on marking up the Valley of the Vaiuga, then it's straight on to the base of the wall.
Access duration: 30
Retreat route: On Top of Vanatarea of Buteanuse work on the mark up at the Apollo
Retreat duration: 50


Traseul Norilor

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Traseul Norilor

Users who climbed the route

Alex Cruceru - 29.11.2019
- 29.11.2019

Users who wish to climb the route

Victor Jalbă-Șoimaru

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Access route: It's going to the Apollo on marking up the Valley of the Vaiuga, then it's straight on to the base of the wall.
Retreat route: On Top of Vanatarea of Buteanuse work on the mark up at the Apollo


Rope: semicorzi to 60m
Quickdraws: The 12 loops are equipped
Cams and nuts: The 12 loops are equipped
Additional equipment: The 12 loops are equipped
Traseul Norilor