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Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell) 7c+
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  • Diaries/Climbs (6)
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  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 05.11.2019
edited by unu_din_cluj la data de 23.09.2020

General characteristics


Mandatory grade: 6b
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7c+
Quickdraws: 16
Type: Sport climbing

 Sursă: Facebook Piatra Altarului 
Orientation: S/SE
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 4-5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routeMechanical anchorsVerticalOverhangCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

Bolted by: László Lukács
Date: 20.10.2019


Route description

Pitch 1: Is common with the classical East Ridge (Schenn variant). 40m, grade 4+

Pitch 2: From the first belay station one goes diagonally to the left following the line of anchors through easy terrain with vegetation. Belay is on a comfortable ledge. 25m, grade 5-

Pitch 3: From the belay directly up to the slabby face, crossing a bigger ledge, the left following a crack system that goes slightly left. Crossing back to the right on vegetation to reach the basis of a beautiful crack line that leads straight up to the next belay. 40m, grade 6-

Pitch 4: The longest pitch in 2 variants. The direct one goes over a steep face with a very nice undercling (Bat's undercling) then following a natural crack line which from time to time extends into a dihedron. This is the most beautiful plaisir pitch of the route which then leads to the harder and more exposed sports climbing part. 45m, grade 7+/8- (7-, A0)

Pitch 5: The hardest pitch, but easily french freeable. 20m, grade 9+ (7-, A0)

Pitch 6: Exposed, tricky start from the belay with somewhat higher engagement level. It implies a little bit of ingenuity to pass at A0+/A1 if one doesn't climb 6b onsight. Hooks, etriers might come in handy. 20m, grade 9- (7, A1)

Pitch 7: Beautiful closing in 2 variants. The easy one goes along a very nice crack and finishes just below the Summit Cross. The trickier, also called "Wrong side of Heaven" will in turn surprise you with a superb technical face passage to join the original line below the Summit Cross. 35m, grade 6- (or 8- on the right variant).
Information source

Access and retreat

GPS: N 46° 48' 51.5" E 25° 48' 46.4"    
Retreat duration: 1 ora

Topo

Topo

Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell)

Pictures


Sursă: Facebook Piatra Altarului

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Facebook Piatra Altarului

Users who climbed the route


Carmen Popa - 22.12.2019
- 22.12.2019
Lucian Oprea - 10.11.2019, Vara
- 10.11.2019
Chereches Cristian - 20.10.2019, Vara
- 20.10.2019Pentru prima data in viata am parcurs un traseu in premiera si am vazut cat este de greu sa faci un asemenea lucru. La fiecare pas am batut, am testat si am curatat prizele pentru ca nu eram sigur de ce urmeaza sa ma trag... Un traseu care mi-a creat multe emotii constructive si m-a facut sa imi depasesc limitele fizice si psihice. Am parcurs lungimile 1,2,3,4 si 7(varianta usoara) la rotpunkt (cap schimbat). Lungimea 5( lungimea cheie ), am avut onoarea sa merg cap si sa incerc sa scot toti pasii la liber, insa pasul de ridicare si intrare in regrupare ma depaseste. Eu l-am cotat fiind minim 8a, iar traverseul pana in pas, 7c /7c+. (cotatie dupa cateva ore de stat in perete :)) ) Lungimea 6- Incepe cu o fisura foarte tehnica, cotata de mine 7b+ si cred ca este cea mai sustinuta lungime (fizic si psihic :)) ). Multumesc László Lukács pentru invitatie! "Place? Ramane? " "Place, place!" :))

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 46° 48' 51.5" E 25° 48' 46.4"    

Equipment


Quickdraws: 16
Sursă: Facebook Piatra Altarului

Comments