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Viva la Vida 4A, M5
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added by Adi Min la data de 21.02.2018
edited by Ad Min la data de 30.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mixed climbing grade: M5
Type: Mixt

 Sursă: AlternativeTM 
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Radu Crainic, Adrian Vălean, Florin Daneliuc
Date: 20.03.2010
Story: Link


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC-1 (60m): it Starts with a corridor sloping out of the snow, 50 to 60* after 10-15m to 70*, and it narrows until it becomes a chimney, the vertical, this is up to the difficulty of maximum of the length of the (M5) and then another 10 m of the chimney is widened, and the next the other, 20 meters from the corridor approximately 70, with the snow, till into the pool. The investments are low because of the mobile, the cliff is crumbly, and the safest, are the rings type of blade, although that's pretty rare. In the grouping I have left it for 2 hands/blades.
LC-2 (55m): with a kind of bike with a near vertical 80 to 85*, point of rocks 15 yards and then a field of snow fell, 40 to 45*, 10, where it is interrupted by a doorway, the vertical rock face. The threshold is below a sorplomba, which avoids slanting to the right and continue to a cross, exposed to possibilities, a few of the insurance policy, it's going all over the joint about 15 yards, I should say that it is a step of the path. The pace is about the M5 but it's very dangerous. What we have left before the door.
LC-3 (60m): 60-70s* follow the hallway straight up into the sky, two o'clock, the snow was really bad, we've run aground and break up. Insurance rather difficult. He's concentrating on the mobile and on the nail/blade.
LC-4 (40): 60* , you have to cross your left approx 10 m, up to a ceiling of the vertical (M4). The snow is very big, and we had to take down, dig in, and fight the snow to consolidate it so as not to disturb us. Below is the front of the fell of the cliff, and that's what made the snow very unstable. You can make sure the teeth of the rock, and after that continue straight up the lane. By the pool next 30 yards of solid snow. The pool at the one who's solid and a corner stone.
LC-5 (60m): 60* follow the lane, snow 30, it is intersecteza a shaft that comes out of the right hand, and after that, straight up on a lane 15 yards before he goes out on a slightly inclined (40*) in the top.
Information source
http://www.alternativetm.ro/ture/peretele-nv-al-vf-vanatoarea-lui-buteanu-iarna

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