Tisei (varianta 2) 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Quickdraws: 12
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsAid climbingOverhangChimneyGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Spătaru
Date: 1975


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail has a few parts loose in the second and third length of string and desfãsoarã above the trail marked tourist, there is the danger accidentãrii tourists.

LC 1: For starters depãsim a surplombã, after which depãsim line pitonslor up near a copãcel where to find a place to regroup, marked on the outline as the pool intermediate. From here we start a traverse to the left under the surplombã prelungã noticed and at the base of the route. Înitial across a sign after which executãm a crossing downline to the left by autotractiune of string (autofilare) until a threshold narrow rock. We still cãtãrãm ascending left until we get the new under the sea surplombã. Continue traversing to the left until over a dihedral at the base of who we're observing a tree. Regrouping we do the tree after we go down two-flat. We recommend that the grouping in this place to reduce the friction of the rope on the second length of string and to be able to help the first mate on the crossing of the downline. For the first length of string there are two versions : the first called and the variant direct us out directly in the first pool to the tree, and the second in the belay station of the intermediate.

LC 2: Get dihedron under which we have regrouped, we pass a surplombã and get under a tisã. Through a cãtãrare "á la Tarzan" helping us out of our roots and of the trunk depãsim yew. Keep in cãtãrare artificial and soon meet the rock friabilã. We cãtãrãm carefully to not dislocãm stones, depãsim a surplombã and regrupãm on a threshold.

LC 3: Above us we have rings from the last length of string of the route the Spiders. We, however, cross to the right on a threshold grass up to the base of a chimney pãmântos wide, full of vegetation. Climb the chimney and regrupãm in an area împãduritã. Here the trail ends.
Information source
http://alpinet.org/main/articole/show_ro_t_alpininfo-maiiunie-2001-alpin-info-maiiunie-2001-piatra-mare_id_500_pid_1346.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 34' 01.3" E 25° 38' 56.6"    
Access route: This route starts from the path marked with blue triangle, on the right of the second cave bivouac (at about 15m from the grotto) and is visibly marked with red paint.
Retreat route: Follow to the left a track visible which take us to the base of the wall.

Pictures


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Map



GPS: N 45° 34' 01.3" E 25° 38' 56.6"    
Access route: This route starts from the path marked with blue triangle, on the right of the second cave bivouac (at about 15m from the grotto) and is visibly marked with red paint.
Retreat route: Follow to the left a track visible which take us to the base of the wall.

Equipment


Rope: 50 m
Quickdraws: 12
Cams and nuts: 12
Additional equipment: 12
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