30 yeas ago, Carol Lehmann was leaving us.

Traseul Mărinelor 5A, (6, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 26.08.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu 
Orientation: N
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsMechanical anchorsAid climbingOverhangDihedralCrackFantasticChain

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Traian Flucuş
Date: 1956


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

They are the necessary footwork, and/or hog rings as well as loops to long since the last long, is winding and takes to the artificial one.
The entrance to the trail is located to the right of the Afumaturii between the "cutting Edge" and "Bite". It easily locates the two-flat bent to the right side of the first length.

LC-1 - 30 m. - the Initial climb to a level of about 10 meters in height, the grade 3, the lack of insurance of fixed. We'll get a wider one, that where there is a hospital. Continue with the crack provided, which is starting to turn slightly to the right. Then you cross a piece of about 5 meters, without insurance, and we'll get in a few hands. The crack is transformed into a dihedral closed on top, with a beetle. The initial leg, went by on the artificial than the beetle. The current one that goes to the left, where we get a few more rapids, then a regroup, a wider one, that of a stone to a sling. The difficulty of the length of the (6+/7-for example) is to reach under the overhanging climbing party and the exit to the left because the wall of the left ventricle of the diedrului is washed away.

LC-2 - 45-m - Move obliquely to the right, on the front porch with a cord, climbing on the front of the bars, spaced to the right of the cave, over which we climb. It is marked with the three hands, and above them, we can find two more. You can switch to A0, and up-to-free-is 6+. Do the right athwart the passage is inconvenient for attention and we're seeing a pool out of which run a cable on top of that, we follow horizontally to the right. At 3 m after the cable problem.

LC-3 - 25 and I - we're slightly left of the thresholds are marked by clean, and we'll be on a small platform below a vertical crack. Meet the aggregation of old, now unused, on the wall on the right, we have a hospital in a different way. Following a tear-washed, which is a step more difficult-7 - to the free, but it can be move to the artificial in order that the anchor just found out it has cords in it. Once hardened, the crack widens, you will encounter 2-3 hands and up to the base of the plates, tilted the pipe up to the left. Here's 3 I'll regroup at the top of the plate offset from the three pitons, and a rope running through an hourglass. On top of us it amounts to a beetle with pronounced and dramatic.

LC-4 - 20 km. Climb up the face slightly to just below the ceiling, and then go up to the left of it. The passage is very well provided with hands, the A0. The ceiling follows a vertical crack air tight with your hands, and even the expansion bolts from the neighbor, but, due to the exposure of the land, the A1. Re-of a tree, thin as the christmas tree custom is to join the traditional view is right on the edge, and the half of the roots in the air.

LC-5 Is a long etnobotanica in the woods, but it is a good idea to pay attention. Climb, about 12 km right up the chimney wide, with grasses and trees to find the last anchor of the route. Here, the chimney collapses, and a left-hand turn on to a wider one, that you with the muscles that we've been following for a few tens of meters. Re the first tree is convenient as soon as the land is becoming a mere forest netaiata.
Information source
Sursă: Mihai Dăiţoiu
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 310-311
Topo - FB Nicu Dragomir

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 31' 21.6" E 25° 16' 24.8"    
Access route: The trail is located in the dent it's making the Wall of the north-west of the mountain Toanche? at about 140 m away from the third loft (counted from the right of the Fountain of the full menu), in the area of the climb, called "The Refuge" (the unit's).
Retreat route: In the woods we take the left (as soon as I got the track) to a clearing with a house on the top of the hill. Below the meadow lies a valley, which we descended to the logging road out of the Abyss. Vâlcelul pamântos it's steep, and it needs to be kept to the right. At the bottom and go under a wall, with climbing routes and a stop by to a crestuli?a. Here you can find a stop of the booster with your hands to make it a mirror of some 10 meters, and then we'll be right there at the base of the trail where we started the climb. Those of you who don't want to rapeleze I can go down exposed on the opposite side of the crestuli?ei, by means of a shaft.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu

Pictures


Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu

Users who climbed the route


Adrian Scurtu - 14.09.2019, Vara
- 14.09.2019Prima lungime.
Mihai Daitoiu - 04.06.2017, Vara
- 04.06.2017Traseu frumos, bine asigurat, ultima lungime este aeriana si la artificial.
Iulia Darie - 03.06.2017
- 03.06.2017Poze: http://goo.gl/ZkDdSZ

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 31' 21.6" E 25° 16' 24.8"    
Access route: The trail is located in the dent it's making the Wall of the north-west of the mountain Toanche? at about 140 m away from the third loft (counted from the right of the Fountain of the full menu), in the area of the climb, called "The Refuge" (the unit's).
Retreat route: In the woods we take the left (as soon as I got the track) to a clearing with a house on the top of the hill. Below the meadow lies a valley, which we descended to the logging road out of the Abyss. Vâlcelul pamântos it's steep, and it needs to be kept to the right. At the bottom and go under a wall, with climbing routes and a stop by to a crestuli?a. Here you can find a stop of the booster with your hands to make it a mirror of some 10 meters, and then we'll be right there at the base of the trail where we started the climb. Those of you who don't want to rapeleze I can go down exposed on the opposite side of the crestuli?ei, by means of a shaft.

Equipment


Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu

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