Today we celebrate 68 years since Creasta Piticului (Padina lui Călineţ) first ascent.  

Traseul Mărinelor (The Route Marinelor) 5A
0.00/5 (0 votes)




1533 page views


  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (3)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 17.04.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Type: Technical rock climbing

 alt 
Orientation: N
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsMechanical anchorsAid climbingOverhangDihedralCrackFantasticChain

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Traian Flucuş
Date: 1956


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is located in the Wall of the north-west of the mountain Toanche?, which borders on the right Chasms. He was among the most traveled routes in the area, the climbers zarne?teni using it for their workouts weekly. The name of the route comes from the area of the meadows, where the climbing ends and to which the villagers of Magura tell him "By Marine".

Are the necessary footwork and/or hog rings as well as long loops whereas the last length is sinuous and it makes the artificial.
The entry route is at the right Afumaturii, between the route of "the Edge" and "Mouth". It easily locates dihedron tilted to the right of the first lengths.

LC 1 - 30 m. Initially it escalates a level of about 10 m height, degree 3, without insurance fixed. We get a wider one, that where we meet a spit. Continue on the crack provided which starts to tilt slightly right. Then cross a piece of approx 5 metres without insurance, and we get a few pitons. The crack turns into a dihedral closed above with a beetle. The route originally was going to artificially over this beetle. The current one that comes out on the left, where we get a few rapids, and then regroup on a wider one, that of the stone, to a cable. The difficulty of the length (6+/7-) consists of reaching under overhanging climbing that and the exit to the left because the left wall of the diedrului is washed.

LC 2 -45 m. Moving obliquely to the right on the porch with cable tv, climbing on the face of slabs, staggered to the right a cave over which we climb. It is marked with three pitons and above it we can find another two. They can move to A0 and up-to-free is 6+. We do skew right on a passage uncomfortable that requires attention and meet a pool from which starts a cable that we follow horizontally to the right. Three meters after the cable regroup.

LC 3 Has 25 m. Go slightly left on the doorsteps marked with pitons and arrive on a small platform below a vertical crack. Meet a belay station of old, currently unused, and on the right wall we have a spit from another route. Follow a crack flushed which has a step more difficult, 7 - free, but which can be move to the artificial because the python found on top has cords in it. Once through, the crack widens, you'll meet 2-3 pitons and then we go out to the base of a plate inclined with a pipe up on the left. Here in 3 meters regroup in the upper part of this plate oblique, the three pitons and a rope threaded through an hourglass. Above us rises a beetle pronounced and spectacular.

LC 4 - 20 m. Climb a face light up under the ceiling, then go up through the left side. The passage is very well secured with pitons, has a degree A0. After the ceiling follows a vertical crack air well secured with pitons and even expansion bolts of the route neighbor but which, owing to the exposure and the land is grade A1. Regroup at the a tree slender as tree massive pool traditional is right on the edge and has the half of the roots in the air.

LC 5 Is a length etnobotanica, through the woods, but it's good to be careful. Climb, about 12 km straight up a chimney wide with the herbs and fallen trees to find the last cam of the route. Here the chimney is clogged and turn left on a wider one, that with moss that we follow a few tens of meters. Regroup at the first tree convenient as soon as the land becomes a simple forest still netaiata.
Information source
Sursă: Mihai Dăiţoiu
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 310-311
Topo - FB Nicu Dragomir

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 31' 21.6" E 25° 16' 24.8"    
Access route: The route is located in the dent that it makes the Wall of the north-west of the mountain Toanche? at about 140 m away from the third bridge (counted from the right of the Fountain's the full menu), in the area of climbing called "The Refuge" (the Sector's).
Retreat route: In the woods we take the left (how I climbed the route) to a clearing with a house on top of the hill. Under this glade is a valley which we will descend to the forest road from the Precipice. Vâlcelul pamântos is steep and must be kept right. At the bottom go under a wall with the climbing routes and stop us on a crestuli?a. Here we find a station booster with pitons from which we can make a rappel of about 10 m, then we get immediately at the base of the routes, where we started climbing. Those who don't want to rapeleze can go down exposed on the opposite side of the crestuli?ei, through a chimney.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: FB Nicu Dragomir

Pictures


alt

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



alt

User who climbed the route


Mihai Daitoiu - 04.06.2017, Vara
Iulia Darie - 03.06.2017

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 31' 21.6" E 25° 16' 24.8"    
Access route: The route is located in the dent that it makes the Wall of the north-west of the mountain Toanche? at about 140 m away from the third bridge (counted from the right of the Fountain's the full menu), in the area of climbing called "The Refuge" (the Sector's).
Retreat route: In the woods we take the left (how I climbed the route) to a clearing with a house on top of the hill. Under this glade is a valley which we will descend to the forest road from the Precipice. Vâlcelul pamântos is steep and must be kept right. At the bottom go under a wall with the climbing routes and stop us on a crestuli?a. Here we find a station booster with pitons from which we can make a rappel of about 10 m, then we get immediately at the base of the routes, where we started climbing. Those who don't want to rapeleze can go down exposed on the opposite side of the crestuli?ei, through a chimney.

Equipment


alt

Comments