5 yeas ago, Francisc Wild was leaving us. Today we celebrate 66 years since Muchia Brânelor (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent

Traseul Mesteacănului (Fisura Mesteacănului) 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 26.07.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

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Length: 3 pitches
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Crăciun, Gheorghe Comșa
Date: 25.07.1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Route the Birch is located on the right side of the Prapastiilor (the left as we climb), in the Wall of the north-west of the mountain Toanche?.
Climbing up from the forest road through there overgrown by vegetation and punctuated by a few bushes, we reach after about 15 km at the base of the Wall north-west of the mountain Toanche?, lifted up very close to a sluice box outlined to the right.

The first him.c. follows the line of a crack inclined obliquely to the right, along some faces of the layer, inverted the vertical. The passage, easily accessible, you climb with the help of three cams located on route; platform belay station a meet after about 40 m, on a threshold slightly grassy.

To second him.c. start with a passage overhangt that you have to cross it to the left towards a porch narrow. Once on it, continue crossing another 3 km and then, on the line of greatest slope, climb to fully extend the ropes. Regrouping, marked with two cams, it is convenient.

The third him.c. we are conducting on the vertical axis of a crack in the dihedral, carried out between the two sides of the layer; the passage ends under a block; above it, the route loses its difficulty.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 310
Nomenclatorul traseelor 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 31' 21.6" E 25° 16' 24.8"    
Access route: Following the road from the Precipice, we meet a short distance away the third bridge. In his right, on the left of our road, we meet after about 100 m area with scree and boulders, crawling vegetation, over which we climb from the road up to the base of the Route Birch.
Retreat route: Following a ridge up in the wooded area. The descent into the road from the Precipice we perform free, on a valley situated to the right.

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Map



GPS: N 45° 31' 21.6" E 25° 16' 24.8"    
Access route: Following the road from the Precipice, we meet a short distance away the third bridge. In his right, on the left of our road, we meet after about 100 m area with scree and boulders, crawling vegetation, over which we climb from the road up to the base of the Route Birch.
Retreat route: Following a ridge up in the wooded area. The descent into the road from the Precipice we perform free, on a valley situated to the right.

Equipment


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