Today we celebrate 69 years since Traseul Fomino (Peretele Brânei Mari a Caraimanului) first ascent, 61 years since Traseul Central din Padina Închisă (Peretele Padinei Închise) first ascent

Traseul Vulturului (Traseul Şpirlea 3) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 29.10.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Classic route

 Sursă Silvia Murgescu 
Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsChimneyLoose rocksNot recommendedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Opriş, Nicolae Bulmez


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: enter on line pitonslor visible from departure. After 6m is done right and out on the grass. Regroup in an hourglass, quickly left, where we find a strap white pretty damaged.

LC 2: It departs in crossing the left and then continues up on a face down 20m having the right a wall of wet, decomposed and friable. Out on the grass and regroup the 2 pitons on the right at the base of a dihedral. On this length there is only one python. The possibilities of insurance at the mobile is reduced because of the quality very bad of the rock.

LC 3: go up the dihedral. After 6m it crosses the right and can regroup the 2 pegs on a wider one, that small and narrow. It was a short length. Insurance enough, but bad. Girdle of the regroup break under his feet.

LC 4: go all in traverse right to reach a crack. Then climb the crack up and when we get to the main wall, continue upward left on a wider one, that of grass, and regroup at the base of a dihedral to a nail and a corner of the cliff.

LC 5: it Is the most difficult length of trail. It climbs upward the left to the top of a tower having the right wall and from here it passes a passage of 3-4m more difficult, but that can be done at artificial. Then we climb along a chimney. When it narrows crossing left and regroup the 2 pitons taking over our another chimney.

LC 6: get in the ramonaj up on the chimney, about 5m, and then shall be forwarded to the left on the near wall and then straight up. It's a long light that we get in the ridge. Regroup at the juniper trees.
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2010/06/20100613-traseul-vulturul-din-turnul.html
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: At the base of the route enough times on the Refuge ?pirlea (when we get to the wall turn left) or by going directly on the Valley ?pirlei.

The point of entry on the route is in the far left of the Tower ?pirlei, where Circus Black raises wall washing,
closing the thalweg of the valley ?pirlei.
Retreat route: Once on top, shake the ropes, and, climbing up among the clusters of juniper trees, we arrive in about 15 minutes on the Girdle of the Middle. By following the Girdle of the Middle to the right, meet after about 25 minutes the path marked with red tape (route "In Chains").

Topo

Topo

Traseul Vulturului (Traseul Şpirlea 3)

Pictures


Sursă Silvia Murgescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă Silvia Murgescu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 13.06.2010

Map



Access route: At the base of the route enough times on the Refuge ?pirlea (when we get to the wall turn left) or by going directly on the Valley ?pirlei.

The point of entry on the route is in the far left of the Tower ?pirlei, where Circus Black raises wall washing,
closing the thalweg of the valley ?pirlei.
Retreat route: Once on top, shake the ropes, and, climbing up among the clusters of juniper trees, we arrive in about 15 minutes on the Girdle of the Middle. By following the Girdle of the Middle to the right, meet after about 25 minutes the path marked with red tape (route "In Chains").

Equipment


Sursă Silvia Murgescu

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