On 05.08.1907 Niculae Comănescu was born. Today we celebrate 84 years since Hornul Mare din Padina Închisă (Peretele Orga Mare) first ascent

Valea Seacă a Caraimanului 2A
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added by Ad Min la data de 27.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 12.01.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 2A
Type: Alpine route

 Sursă foto: Rupi 
Climb duration: 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routePitonsFantasticRope

First ascent and re-bolting

First winter ascent: Niculae Comănescu, Aurel Teodorescu, Sepe Zavazal, Ivana Popescu
Date: 31.01.1932


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The valley presents întrepunctul of intersection with the Road Well and Saddle the Sea of the Caraiman mountain (alt.2325 m), three portions of entirely distinct aspects and in part contrasting,namely: the lower portion, with a moderate incline and a small number deobstacole; amphitheatre, broad and slightly sloping of the Clearing the Large, covered peîntinderi vast with rich thickets of juniper trees, and in the end, chimneyurilestîncoase, narrow and strongly sloping in the upper third of the course.
The first jumpers sîntmici and devoid of difficulties. The valley penetrates soon in a prime canioncu walls very close and vertical, at the end of which a jumper on the layout of a sluice box, a high of about 15 km, can be the last direct or circuitous cuu?urin?a along a platform of the narrow what goes up on the left and parallel cufirul the valley. At a short distance upstream, i.e. at the point where the ribs dindreapta (how to get) away, a vîlcel down under versantulsudic of the Droplet (Vîlcelul Strungii Large) marks the trail that leads labaza Crack Yellow.
After the passage of the direct bypassing of a second jumping high, called ,,high jumper's Zangur",we arrive at the confluence with the V. his Zangur (gradde difficulties. 1A), whose route climbing in the extension of V. Dry is confundatuneori with the latter.
Soon after depa?imconfluen?a with the Valley's Zangur, a bouncing vertical of about 10 m height(Jumper from Turning) can be climbed directly - in the case when the fereastrace a formed in the upper part is not jammed or circumvented by stîngavaii. The thread still showing, and on a short portion, a course sinuous,penetrates into a small canyon, and a few tens of meters above receives dinstînga Vîlcelul the Giant, whose thread, followed on a small portion, in the above,leads to the base of the wall that falls to the N, from the Ridge ?ancului the Giant.
Starting at the confluence of the above-mentioned,the Valley of stone is interrupted by the high jumper Prelucie, consisting of a înlan?uirede slabs eroded by water and slipping slowly to the snow. Acestobstacol can be climbed directly, following the guttering and small cracks what 1brazdeaza front or bypassed by grassy slopes and under the jnepeni?ul dindreapta valley (how to get).
The route reached soon in the huge amphitheater alPoienii Large, which opens up a wide perspective and gives a singular mare?ieasupra this vast contents of stone, dominated in the right - how do we look at spreCrucea Heroes - the great pyramids of the Droplet and Corner Strungii Large,and on the left, the ridge fierastruita to ?ancului the Giant. In the centre,the Chimneys of the Valley Dry, dark, and wet, fall down almost vertically from the ?armurarasariteana of the platform Caraiman mountain, forming at the exit to the clearing, a small conde alluvial; on the left the chimneys, Spintecatura V. Dry and Vîlcelul Mortuluibrazdeaza almost linear front of the Caraiman mountain, and on the right, strecurîndu-pesub the southern wall of the Ridge the Drop, Wash the Valley of the Dry take the end deasupraaceleia?i glades, through a rupture of the slope of unusual proportions.
In the clearing of the valley and after otraversare uphill slightly to the left, we enter in the Chimneys of the Valley Drain, in the Brîului Village of caruicingatoare, sometimes covered with juniper trees and accompanied by a small, trail,crossing by S Spintecatura Valley Dry and Vîlcelul the Dead man spake,through the window called ,,the Door to the Caraiman mountain" and across the Valley of the Bubbly,to V. Mica (in the route index 5).
From the Girdle Village in the top, thread Valley Dry is interrupted by a first jumper (the jumper's situation Village), close to the vertical, but of a height not exceeding 5 m; after a climb easily through the crack from the left, we arrive soon in front of the two jumpers, called, high jumper Black, whose climb is without difficulties. Immediately follows the high jumper of the Cross (about 15 m), which can be uploaded directly or bypassed on the right. A few tens of meters above the Chimney Deep, more difficult than the obstacles previous, it can be escalated on a threshold narrow, the right and parallel with the scocul front. We will not engage in any case on the faces of the apparently accessible from the left of the valley (right way up), that hide the unsuspected dangers due to the slope in excessive and small platforms and stairs of grass that break easily. Soon we arrive at the base of the most difficult obstacle on the roadmap (high jumper High, înal?irne 25 m), which having the appearance of a chimney narrow and almost vertical, it escalates on a few small portions, through the ramonaj.
In the further, ,,the high jumper from under the Eaves" is the last obstacle of the valley; thanks to the numerous outlets, it can be climbed directly after that, climbing easily through the bolovani?ul and small scocuri of the wire, we get in the Girdle (or,the Girdle of the under the Eaves"), wide verandah and relaxing in front of a cave deep, overhangta, on the whole desfri?urarea them, a huge arch of stone. From the Girdle Top, where the ascent of the Valley Dry is virtually finished, streamlining to S and then sharply to the right, to V, we get 15 min in the Saddle the Sea of the Caraiman mountain.
Information source
Bucegii turism alpinism - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea
Mircea Ordean - Articol Muntii Carpati

Topo

Topo

Valea Seacă a Caraimanului

Pictures


Sursă foto: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 11.02.2017 Daniel Toader
  • 05.12.2015 Eugen H., Alex C., Rupi

Sursă foto: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Roua Popescu - 17.11.2019
- 17.11.2019
Scriba Cezar - 13.10.2018, Vara
- 13.10.2018
Alexander Edelweiss - 13.10.2018, Vara
- 13.10.2018
Sherpa Scufi - 16.08.2018, Vara
- 16.08.2018
Sherpa Scufi - 05.08.2018, Vara
- 05.08.2018
Victor Anica - 27.08.2017, Vara
- 27.08.2017
Sherpa Scufi - 06.08.2017, Vara
- 06.08.2017
Adrian Mihai - 26.02.2017, Iarna
- 26.02.2017iesit prin Vlc. Mortului cu retragere pe V. Alba
Sherpa Scufi - 07.08.2016, Vara
- 07.08.2016
Alina Madalina Rosu - 10.07.2016
- 10.07.2016
LauraB - 27.02.2014, Iarna
- 27.02.2014
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Sherpa Scufi - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


tamassslv

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mircea Ordean - 12.11.2018

Video - C9H13No3 - 18.11.2014

Video - Mihai Cernat - 30.09.2012

Video - Páll Endre - 03.12.2009

Video - Páll Endre - 03.12.2009

Map



Equipment


Sursă foto: Rupi

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