Today we celebrate 85 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 1 year since Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell) (Piatra Altarului) first ascent

Muchia lui Ivan 3B, 6
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Victor Anica la data de 11.10.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3B
Rotpunkt grade: 6
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Rupi 
Orientation: NW-SE
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1830 m
Height: 180 m
Climb duration: 5 - 6 h
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsRidge

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Dorel Coman
Date: 24.09.1944

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The leading edge of Ivan, it has a series of obstacles, carried out on a 250 m difference in level, which is to a great extent, they exceed it by free climbing. In the central portion there is a passage where the use of pitonslor is required. The course ends on the South Ridge of piatra Craiului mountains, right on the Saddle of the Ass, which is to the south.

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Description: Ionel Coman

In the light of memory, the more beautiful it appears to be the Edge of the Ivan's. First ascent, on the 24th of September, 1944, it remained significant in the book of the mountains, the excitement of those first steps, to the isolation of the sites have too little traffic, the fear of the stîncii the unknown, and then the content that includes anyone who at the end of the test is not exactly easy.
The edge gets up out of the jnepeni?ul brîului, and chematoare at the beginning, in order to gradually become vertical, and fade to a hundred and fifty feet high, in the heart of the wall was washed away, and the city overhangt. Double Dutch, and the support of a few hands to thin has helped us to make the refuge a great place to shelter under a niche of the wall. As the time prolonged, the joy of the success of close, it changed into a feeling of defeat and over and over again in the hope, that, when, after much searching and trial and error, I've found the threshold, the narrow passage into the chimney beyond the edge. The uncertainty of the premiere was melted just at the exit of the chimney, over the past few lengths of cord, over the backs of the grass, and jump to the rocks leading to the Ridge of the Rock.
Information source

Ion Coman, Am îndrăgit munţii: Amintiri despre alpinism şi drumeţie - Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, Bucureşti, 1963
Emilian Cristea - Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism , Editura Sport Turism, 1984
Radu Titeica, Niculae Baticu - Pe crestele Carpatilor, Editura Sport Turism, 1984

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The path starts in the Middle of the Red.
Retreat route: The descent from the route is by the Valley of the Nettles (mark YOUR own).


Sursa foto: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Sursa foto: Rupi

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Access route: The path starts in the Middle of the Red.
Retreat route: The descent from the route is by the Valley of the Nettles (mark YOUR own).


Sursa foto: Rupi