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Traseul Central din Peretele Piscului Rece 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi la data de 07.11.2018

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

 Foto și desen: Rupi 
Length: 10 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emilian Cristea, Mircea Gheorghiu
Date: 19.08.1942

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The wall of the Summit Cold soars above the valley with the same name, on a difference of level of about 300 m. He is crossed in the middle by a crack open which constitutes the line of the route.

Escalate the the first it.c. start from the Girdle Red, at 1750 m alt. Initial attack a crack slightly grassy, climbing by a beetle highlight from the wall, at about 15 m above. Under the ceiling of its traverse to the left, avoiding the protrusion; and then, on the line of greatest slope, moving forward, reaching on a belt turf. Regrouping we execute on the right, next to a spruce grew in the wall.

Via a traverse to the left and then diagonally along the wall with the rock crumbly, we're looking for in the second.c. the most advantageous crossing points to the central fissure. The portions overhangte, frequently encountered, and overcome them with pitons set by us and recovered from the second. Regrouping a execute under the central fissure, outlined above us to the left.

The final target of the third him.c. is to reach the crack above. The rock crumbly, the advance with frequent changes of direction on the above surplombelor out of the wall and the complete lack of pitonslor make this stretch one of the delicate passages of the route. On a platform uncomfortable inside of the rift central regroup.

Following the line of the rift of what has the appearance of a sluice box in the fourth.c. overcome with the help of a few pitons additional problems cropped up along the way. In a cave of small dimensions, encountered after 30 m, we execute the belay station.

Fifth him.c. is the most difficult of the route. Due to the wall washing what surplombeaza above, we engage in a climbing complicated on the face of the right. The lack of cracks and the projection light of the passage the sky a tense physical and moral. Platform belay station a meet up at about 40 m, in a cave, at which we arrive through a passage to the left.

Above the point of the pool there is a chimney open, blocked by a beetle out of reach. In the sixth it.c. go around the obstacle mentioned by the right, turning on top of him in the central fissure, which we follow, regrupându us in the next cave.

Like the previous one, the seventh.c. act again a traverse to the right, with a return after 25 m turn left on the route line, and anything above meet the third cave, in which we regroup. In the upper portion of the wall, the central fissure widens, becoming a trough washed, blocked by overhangs and dotted by small caves. To overcome them it requires time and very much material.

That's why, avoid the obstacles mentioned, committing us to choose him.c. in a climbing directed obliquely to the right, on a face crumbly. The upper portion of the passage has two slabs high, among which ramonând we make it to the top. A few stone steps staggered still go through with easily, by executing the grouping to the left, in an area with the rock color caramizie.

To the new him.c. we can consider from a technical point of view the end of the climbing. On the 40 I have of the passage, the slope gradually loses from the incline, the climbing being elementary. Grouping do in a valley grass and small junipers.

In the right jnepenilor, climb the 80 m-what's more we have to go up on the South Ridge shall be carried out without insurance.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 286, 295-296
Walter Kargel



Traseul Central din Peretele Piscului Rece


Foto și desen: Rupi

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