Today we celebrate 65 years since Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 51 years since Hornul Mare-Negru (Bucura II - Peretele Nord-Estic) first ascent, 1 year since Muchia din dreapta Vaii lui Ivan (Valea lui Ivan) first ascent

Traseul Sudic din Peretele Central 2B
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 07.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 2B
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Buletinul CAR octombrie 1939 
Length: 13 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsOverhangCrackChimneyLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Popescu, Francisc Severin
Date: 11.08.1939


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The front wall or the Wall of the Great Stone is situated in the middle of the steep slope west, is bounded to the north by the tip of the Spear, or the Corner of the Carugelor, and to the south by the Edge of the Red. Disposed in the auditorium and is preceded by a huge area of the stone, also referred to by the locals, Wood Sea wall, there are numerous mountain trails, which have been established over the years. Unfortunately, the entry points for the trails are hard to spot, being marked with the cams, and this is fully justified from a technical point of view, the obstacles were elemental.

The Southern Wall of the Great Stone is situated in the far south of the wall (to the right as we ascend), the bottom-up-defined initially, over the course of a sluice box, being visible at a great distance.

The first two did.c. we cross diagonally to the right, into a ditch along the slope of rock, emerged clearly visible on the wall.

The third one did.c. next the interior of the mountains, where the rock easily friable requires a great deal of attention to choosing the s. The passage ends on top of a salient point, avoided by a traverse to the left.

Take a couple of days we pick up head on the fourth one.c. all over the mountains, bringing together doing it after about 30 feet.

In the fifth it.c. leave scocul, crossing the 10 feet to the left on the porches of results of the end faces of the layer, and continuing the advance of the vertical of the wall, satisfied that the trail becomes a bit more difficult. Bringing together a plan to execute a cut-off of the rock.

In the sixth grade for him. c. traverse left for about 25m and then there's a problem.

The line of greatest slope, starting to climb up to the arches of the seventh to him.c. it's a point of overhangt, by using for the assurance of a cam. On top of the overpass to meet platlorma of the pool.

By climbing diagonally to the left, veering for a spalatura. On top of her, on the terrace, chest of drawers, we'll regroup at the end of the month to register it. c. The Panorama that is offered to the True and the Doll stand is in contrast to the giants of rock, of Stone national park and with the who, in spite of the obstacles to the light, it looks very impressive.

The two next to him.c. we carry on along a crack to open. The passage ended in a cave of small dimensions.

In this place, the only difficult passage up to the ridge, is represented by a slab of spalata, which is located at the departure of the eleventh for him.c.

Climb over after an it.c. on the South Ridge of piatra Craiului mountains.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Point-of-entry, in which we leave the marked path turning to the left, is indicated by the words written in blue ink: “the Wall of the Great Stone". Climb diagonally to the right, we arrive at the great amphitheatre which forms the wall of the. On the basis of identifying a block of bedrock is located in the central portion, which marks the start of the trail.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Sudic din Peretele Central

Pictures


Sursa foto: Buletinul CAR octombrie 1939

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursa foto: Buletinul CAR octombrie 1939

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Map



Access route: Point-of-entry, in which we leave the marked path turning to the left, is indicated by the words written in blue ink: “the Wall of the Great Stone". Climb diagonally to the right, we arrive at the great amphitheatre which forms the wall of the. On the basis of identifying a block of bedrock is located in the central portion, which marks the start of the trail.

Equipment


Sursa foto: Buletinul CAR octombrie 1939

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