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Colţul Dărâmat din Vâlcelul Superior al Şpirlei 4B, 7 (5/5+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 16.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5/5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto si desen: Rupi 
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsChimneyGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Roland Welkens
Date: 26.10.1957
Story: Link
Repaired date: 12.10.2019


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is spectacular, with breathtaking views, in an area that is very wild. The quality of the rock, however, leaves something to be desired at times, but this area is highly fractured, almost like a honeycomb. It is essential to don't we climb up in a hurry and keep a close check on absolutely all points of sale. Because the scroll is in need of a small set of nuts (5 nuts) and 3-4 frienduri.


A link to the story of the opening of the route.


We geared up in the valley, where we have a platform for giving, then we'll head out on a mountain (of the Book at the time of Blooming), some junipers and pine trees, and 20 m above it, we put our shoes, and tie it to the string.


LK 1: Go up on the pillows of grass, and we provide a prime of the tree on the left, continue up the rapids of the rock and the grass, and make sure only one pin length. There are 2 options (on the right, something a little more greu?, but a rock is more pure), or the one on the left, on the sill of the pot. It can be fitted very well, the nut. We aim vâlcelul (hornule?ul) from the above, that we are. Regroup at the end of it on the 2 nails. 40, grade-3+


LK 2: Traverse slightly left and then climb up a ramp upward to the left (there are more options, we can go wherever we find it a lot easier), setting up a chimneyule? looming in the distance. On the basis of that, we have, and the first pin. Up to approximately one half of the chimney, and then out to the right, on a brâni?a. We'll go on it 4 to 5 meters, make sure the second pin we face, we'll go out on a muchiu?a, desca?aram 2, and be able to talk. Due to the many changes of direction, it will be impossible for you to track the self-locking of the pool. We need to expand the grouping with a score of 1-1.5 m to the tail of the muchiu?a. 40 grade 4



LC-3: to the right, securing the anchor, and then up to the face, the more we can top up with your mobile and get the cutting edge that it is light and grassy. Climb up on a ledge by the grass, and make sure that python, and then desca?aram 2 and go into the cave. Paying attention to the sand, and it is not very stable. We go to regroup with the rescue rope (that can get off very easily when needed, climb up to a small doorway out of the cave and regrouped in a big slab of stone, very strong, to the right. 32m, grade 5+



LK 4: go Out of the window, desca?aram 2 and walk in the front, where we have the most difficult part of the route, equipped with 3 hands. The rotpunkt passage must not exceed line 6, the difficulty is to get the arch to below the second pin (the pin doesn't inspire a lot of confidence). We can move very quickly from the ventilator. We'll be out in a valley/chimney, which we keep for 7-8m. It goes both ways, and picking the chimney on the left a more compact, where we have an anchor at the base. Go up the chimney in the ramonaj and regroup at the end of the. 35m, grade 7


LK 5: we're Back with a traverseu right of the chimney, make a friend. Continue up the chimney, and make sure the piece on the right side. After a further 4-5m for him we're leaving and we're committed to the left, on a brâni?a, and then over towards the short, at the end of that, we still have a department. Get a wider one, that messed it up. Keep it in the top 5 and be able to talk. 35m, grade 5-



LK 6: the Length of the is the most well-equipped, with a great many hands the originals of the first. Up the field slowly, on the skirts of the cliff, turning into a small valley. After you make sure the anchor bent, we orient ourselves at the top, slightly right, aiming for chimneyule?ul on the right side (which is more difficult). We have a pin right at the base, and the one on the left, under a pile of herbs. The passage is forced, and not really common. After overcoming this obstacle, we continue on to a valley gently up to the ridge, where you can regroup to either a python or a giant slab on the right side (just above the piston). 55m, grade 6-



LK 7: we can team with the shoes. Walk to the right (while avoiding the debris of the unstable from the left, as well as the top of the actual, which is an edge), we arrive at a small saddle, and down from 5m up to ?ufa the original from which it was rapelat, or 1m below the in-a-rope new. 30, level 1
Information source
Ionel Coman - Am îndrăgit munții, 1963
Topo - Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The easiest way to access the start of the red vertical, as soon as you come out of the woodwork in the hole under the Zaplaz. This is where we're heading in the upper left corner, at the base of the wall, grabbing the belt, and the trail covers a few among the fir-trees and pines. Beyond the first valley around the bottom of a ridge of rock, down to about 30 metres above the level, then hop on the next valley, before splitting into two branches: the one on the right is a dead end, the one on the left, too, because it is brought up in a cave. On top of this cave is located a Corner broke Down, but at the base, you will need to continue to climb in the yard to the left. A chimney, a crestuli?a, and then once again the crossing of the two ravines, back to the right, leading us into the final on a shoulder, grass-covered, with a beautiful view. Once in the valley we'll gear up and leave the grey+the park in the valley beneath, a little goes a long way.
Retreat route: The withdrawal shall be made in the boosting, up to the place where we had left our bags.
The first rappel, straight down, over the wall, 60m, + an additional 2-3m off the ground easily, but easily friable and non-friable. Spitul of the booster (with a rope of red) is on the wall to the right (as we go down the booster).
The second rappel down the rapids of the pot, and then after a little tavanel, continuing down over her face, down to a platform. 55m
The third booster, which is directly at the bottom (at 10 m, we're in a valley). We descend further into the booster more than the flyers (who are, in general, wet). 50. Next to it on the left hand side as you descend into the booster.
The fourth rappel 60m off the valley, and over the flyers. We stop right on top of rucsacilor. We desca?ara last spring, or we could give you a mirror of the tree on the left (the way down).

Topo

Topo

Colţul Dărâmat din Vâlcelul Superior al Şpirlei

Pictures


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Adi Min - 12.10.2019, Vara
- 12.10.2019
Iulian Bogatu - 12.10.2019, Vara
- 12.10.2019
Adi Min - 14.09.2019, Vara
- 14.09.2019Doar primele 3 lungimi

Users who wish to climb the route


Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: The easiest way to access the start of the red vertical, as soon as you come out of the woodwork in the hole under the Zaplaz. This is where we're heading in the upper left corner, at the base of the wall, grabbing the belt, and the trail covers a few among the fir-trees and pines. Beyond the first valley around the bottom of a ridge of rock, down to about 30 metres above the level, then hop on the next valley, before splitting into two branches: the one on the right is a dead end, the one on the left, too, because it is brought up in a cave. On top of this cave is located a Corner broke Down, but at the base, you will need to continue to climb in the yard to the left. A chimney, a crestuli?a, and then once again the crossing of the two ravines, back to the right, leading us into the final on a shoulder, grass-covered, with a beautiful view. Once in the valley we'll gear up and leave the grey+the park in the valley beneath, a little goes a long way.
Retreat route: The withdrawal shall be made in the boosting, up to the place where we had left our bags.
The first rappel, straight down, over the wall, 60m, + an additional 2-3m off the ground easily, but easily friable and non-friable. Spitul of the booster (with a rope of red) is on the wall to the right (as we go down the booster).
The second rappel down the rapids of the pot, and then after a little tavanel, continuing down over her face, down to a platform. 55m
The third booster, which is directly at the bottom (at 10 m, we're in a valley). We descend further into the booster more than the flyers (who are, in general, wet). 50. Next to it on the left hand side as you descend into the booster.
The fourth rappel 60m off the valley, and over the flyers. We stop right on top of rucsacilor. We desca?ara last spring, or we could give you a mirror of the tree on the left (the way down).

Equipment


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi

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