Today we celebrate 68 years since Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 20 years since Sărutul Pământului (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 8 years since Feţele din Stânga Lirei (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent

Sângele Voinicului 4B
0.00/5 (0 votes)




1061 page views


  • Description
  • Videos
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 09.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsCrackChimney

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Jitaru, Gheorghe Roşculeţ
Date: 09.07.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The Great tower is the name given by the authors of the opening of the top of the lone, high on the right side of the valley Ciorângu?ei, just above the Waist to the Middle. Smaller than the previous one, and sat down in front of his face, a new tower got its name from the Small Tower, and in the book to get access to them, covered in part with pines, he was told the Girdle of the Towers. The route of the sweet peas in the valley of the Ciorângu?ei follow the face of the western Tower of the Sea.

Tied up with ropes, climbing obstacles, a first for him.c. on the vertical axis of the crack high by 10 m, and then we go through 4 to the right. At the end of the passage, the route is firmly on the vertical wall, split by a series of cracks and held together, which are provided with cams. Bringing together a run “on the cam", and after about 37 km.

In the second, it.c. climb up with the help of the scari?elor is the dominant one. The crack clear, comes with 13 cams, it stops after a 39-m, under a stone block, and from there continue to shape the opening of the chimney.

Take a couple of days we pick up head on the third one for him.c. Initially, around the block from the rock to the right, turning on top of him and continue our climb through the inside of the chimney. The plugs are good and the opening in the wall allows us to move to 40 meters, using the insurance of the 3 cams of the existing route.

A fourth of it.c. we are doing it on the edge what is over the top of the Great Tower, at the right of the piston out of the booster we're going to use it on the way down.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The right of the "Jumpers to Stone" climb up about 20 meters on the left side of the valley, and then, by means of a traverse to the left across a ridge of rock. The further we go down the steep slope to 25 m, ending in the valley of the Ciorângu?ei. From this point on, we climb up the valley for 50 km, overcoming without problems the small obstacle that you have encountered. After completing the distance specified through the right side, to traverse to the left and the scarf was green, dotted with pines and spruces, also called the Girdle of the Towers. The belt heats up at the base of a tower, leaning over, beyond, through, a point on the exposed ridge, descend it and then climb up through the pines and scree up to the mountain pass of the Small Tower and the Big Tower. On the right, on the face of the Great Tower, you can see the first few hands of the road.
Access duration: 4 hours
Retreat route: By passing rope through ring, piston remember, we've got the first booster, long, 40 yards, down on the south side, into a valley.
Following the 60 m downhill along the vâlcelului. After this distance, to meet you on the left, the valley of anchor, at the start of the second abseil, descending to 20 feet.
The third rappel are we going to do next, and after 40 metres we reach the Middle of the Towers.

Pictures


alt

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


alt

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: The right of the "Jumpers to Stone" climb up about 20 meters on the left side of the valley, and then, by means of a traverse to the left across a ridge of rock. The further we go down the steep slope to 25 m, ending in the valley of the Ciorângu?ei. From this point on, we climb up the valley for 50 km, overcoming without problems the small obstacle that you have encountered. After completing the distance specified through the right side, to traverse to the left and the scarf was green, dotted with pines and spruces, also called the Girdle of the Towers. The belt heats up at the base of a tower, leaning over, beyond, through, a point on the exposed ridge, descend it and then climb up through the pines and scree up to the mountain pass of the Small Tower and the Big Tower. On the right, on the face of the Great Tower, you can see the first few hands of the road.
Retreat route: By passing rope through ring, piston remember, we've got the first booster, long, 40 yards, down on the south side, into a valley.
Following the 60 m downhill along the vâlcelului. After this distance, to meet you on the left, the valley of anchor, at the start of the second abseil, descending to 20 feet.
The third rappel are we going to do next, and after 40 metres we reach the Middle of the Towers.

Equipment


alt

Comments