Today we celebrate 68 years since Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 20 years since Sărutul Pământului (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 8 years since Feţele din Stânga Lirei (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent

Traseul Marian Nicolae (Fisura întreruptă din Colţii Gemeni) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 05.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/Nuts

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Marian, Nicolae Jitaru
Date: 11.07.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

In the Wall of the Atrium of the Teeth, Twins, closed, to the gaze of the Tower of the Auditorium, it is the route that, at the suggestion of friends, he's got the name of the film director of his time, Marian Nicholas. In this way, we honor the memory of a mountaineer, disappeared on us and we show our gratitude to the many hikers rescued him off the mountain. Synonym: Rift interrupted by the Fangs of the Twins.

Once we're on the threshold of the point of the spruce trees specified in the base (1805 m), we turn to the right into a walk of the wall with the brick-coloured, traversed by a fissure, along which it runs the first time.c. Rings found it helps to overcome some of the obstacles the slightly brittle, and may be what I end up after 40 metres, on a platform of a green roof, where there's a problem.

The crack the original, which is the staging, the scaling, 9, m, in the course of the second.c. After this distance, the trail continues with a chimney, winding path that we're leaving soon, with a cross from the right, back into the open up. The belay station of the hit as the extent of full 40 feet of rope.

The passages of the last (third) try.c. dealing with them is only through the free climbing. The two hands found in the rough spots, it helps us in the pursuit of the direction of the route to the ridge.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-turism, București, 1984, pag. 275, 279-280

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: At the Pass of Thermopylae, the base of the Valley of the Bridges, keep to the right on the Middle of the Middle of it. The following trailul in the direction shown, overcoming the small bumps of the terrain, and once you meet the hair and the narrow-grohotisului poured in through the Vâlcelului of the Teeth of Twins. From this location, the base has two branches.

In the Middle of the Middle, we turn to the left, following the right bank of the Vâlcelului of the Teeth of Twins, we are looking for the most beneficial places in order to avoid the debris. After about 150 feet of climb we get to the point where, just to the right of the valley, follow the road access to the Edge of the Reptile.

After the turn at the Edge of the Reptile, the climb goes to the left, on the right bank of the vâlcelului, aiming for the end of the third gap at the top of the Teeth of Twins (the corner to the left of the strungii it is marked on the top with a throw pillow from a stone). Once in the gap, get on the opposite side, corresponding to the Valley of the Bridges. Led by the trail to the right, across from the coast to an area slightly banged up, reaching 90 feet in the right of the Chimney of Hope (1 760 m). His name is written in red paint on the entrance point. Leave trailul, we will climb up through the ramonaj over the fire until the mountain pass of the hall, instead of passing through the Valley of the Bridges, in the Teeth of Twins. The gap lower on the waist contoured to the left, reaching up to 8 m from a pine tree from the right of where you start climbing the route the Crack in It".

Driven by the same belt, we're just below the small în?euare of the Tower of the Auditorium, high on the right, crossing a debris poured out of the mouth of the valley, and on the 9th I again the river bed Vâlcelului of the Teeth of Twins, which is downstream from a spring high up. Get up to 6-8 feet per vâlcelul said, then we are off to the left side of the right and about 10 feet of the climb we find the ability to traverse a knife-edge. Beyond this, there is a waist upwards, what an end to the height of the threshold score of four samples from the spruce forest, stunted, and scrijeli?i of the wind, where he begins climbing routes, overhanging climbing, the Black and the Route of the Marian and st. Nicholas cathedral.
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours
Retreat route: The descent hit the Valley of the Bridge (opposite slope) by means of a rappel of 40 meters, securing the ropes into the ring piston on the ridge. Further down the valley, around him, saritorile until the Middle of the Middle of it.

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Topo

Traseul Marian Nicolae (Fisura întreruptă din Colţii Gemeni)

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Access route: At the Pass of Thermopylae, the base of the Valley of the Bridges, keep to the right on the Middle of the Middle of it. The following trailul in the direction shown, overcoming the small bumps of the terrain, and once you meet the hair and the narrow-grohotisului poured in through the Vâlcelului of the Teeth of Twins. From this location, the base has two branches.

In the Middle of the Middle, we turn to the left, following the right bank of the Vâlcelului of the Teeth of Twins, we are looking for the most beneficial places in order to avoid the debris. After about 150 feet of climb we get to the point where, just to the right of the valley, follow the road access to the Edge of the Reptile.

After the turn at the Edge of the Reptile, the climb goes to the left, on the right bank of the vâlcelului, aiming for the end of the third gap at the top of the Teeth of Twins (the corner to the left of the strungii it is marked on the top with a throw pillow from a stone). Once in the gap, get on the opposite side, corresponding to the Valley of the Bridges. Led by the trail to the right, across from the coast to an area slightly banged up, reaching 90 feet in the right of the Chimney of Hope (1 760 m). His name is written in red paint on the entrance point. Leave trailul, we will climb up through the ramonaj over the fire until the mountain pass of the hall, instead of passing through the Valley of the Bridges, in the Teeth of Twins. The gap lower on the waist contoured to the left, reaching up to 8 m from a pine tree from the right of where you start climbing the route the Crack in It".

Driven by the same belt, we're just below the small în?euare of the Tower of the Auditorium, high on the right, crossing a debris poured out of the mouth of the valley, and on the 9th I again the river bed Vâlcelului of the Teeth of Twins, which is downstream from a spring high up. Get up to 6-8 feet per vâlcelul said, then we are off to the left side of the right and about 10 feet of the climb we find the ability to traverse a knife-edge. Beyond this, there is a waist upwards, what an end to the height of the threshold score of four samples from the spruce forest, stunted, and scrijeli?i of the wind, where he begins climbing routes, overhanging climbing, the Black and the Route of the Marian and st. Nicholas cathedral.
Retreat route: The descent hit the Valley of the Bridge (opposite slope) by means of a rappel of 40 meters, securing the ropes into the ring piston on the ridge. Further down the valley, around him, saritorile until the Middle of the Middle of it.

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