Creasta Piticului (The Crest Of The Dwarf) 4A, 6+/7-
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added by Ad Min la data de 11.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 06.04.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Rotpunkt grade: 6+/7-
Type: Classic route

 Creasta Piticului văzută din tr. Coarnele Caprei 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 2 pitches
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsRidge

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Norbert Hiemesch
Date: 17.07.1951


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Pitons sufficient and still good, it is recommended, however, a few mobile mid-size to protect the pool and passages with greater distance between the pitons. The rock generally good with small portions loose, a little grass.

The first him.c. The first passage of the route is also the most difficult, consisting of a traverse to the left by 2-3m on one side easy overhangta. The difficulty is accentuated by the lack of a prime python and the fact that the face is a little crumbly. Here in the old is passed with the help of a pyramid. Degree to free the estimated is 6+/7-. Once I caught the line the chimney what follows, the difficulties fall to elementary. Get out quickly on a corner of the stone where it is an old pool and continue to the right. It is noted that on this length, though I'm not pitons or other signs that could guide us to the ridge line, the trail goes only on the right side of her, on a sequence of dihedrals and cracks. Grouping do near a large corner of the rock, approximately in the same place with the old pool.

In the second it.c. the difficulties are gradually declining, keep the right side of the edge until near the end, where we get back on the ridge. Here we meet a face with a crack oblique what escalates directly, because in the end, to get out on the rock on the peak. Regrouping is on the opposite side, at a time.
Information source
roclimbing.ro - http://www.roclimbing.ro/creasta-piticului-2/
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 265-267
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Sursa foto: Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Starting from the Chalet Plaiul Foii on marking tourist red triangle to the refuge of Hopes, down the Iron Staircase and the chimney from the continuation of her up in the valley Padina his Caline?. The bottom of the chimney (1642 m alt.) has been chosen by the ancestors as a landmark for the identification of entry points on the trails alpine Caline?.
We start the climb on the Padina's Caline? and after 20 km we reach the junction with the Chimney Deep (affluent on the right), from here we continue the session with the passage of 4 jumpers, of which the last more difficult (you can bypass), and at 140 m distance we arrive in an area with lots of detritus (1720 m alt.). Left and above (on the right of the valley) there is a valley wide, preceded by a jumper grassy, willing in increments. The edge furthest to the right, down to the close up of the thread Caline?ului, is called the Crest Horns of the Goat. Beyond the tree mentioned, padina narrows again, forming a corridor filled with debris, interrupted from place to place by small rapids. At about 30 m from the last layer (170 m from the chimney under the stairs of Iron) get into the right a sluice box stony, deep in the mountain, on the right bank of the Caline?ului, called Vâlcelul Dwarf (1750 m alt.).

The ridge on the right ends with a peak elongated, which leaves the impression of a mogâlde?e hardened, hence the name of the route. Access to the Crest of the Dwarf is done in along this valley until the close of the paragraph in which it shall change the inclination to the vertical and turns into a chimney (the Chimney of the Dwarf). From that point we continue to the right and then up to come out on top of jumpers, a wider one, that side of the ridge, located in the first half of it. Once on the girdle exposed, below some juniper trees and a small cave, we will identify the python assurance team for the first length.
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours
Retreat route: Having a pool equipped with pitons, the withdrawal involves a little maneuvering of the chord. Thus the head of the chord will descend insured up to Strunga Dwarf (at the end of the Chimney of the Dwarf) and more on a chimney grass to Caline?ul Small, up to the python booster. The mate will pass the rope over the nose have anything to do that has been secured and will be spun by the head to get to the point of booster, desca?arând on the same route. The rappel of 50m us out in the thread Caline?ului Small, and here there are a few jumpers equipped with anchors booster, the last with a python.

From the point of confluence with Padina his Caline? there is a possibility to go down, avoiding the great jumpers of the Caline?ului, on trailul outlined on the left of the valley. Climbers who want to reach the Northern Ridge can follow upstream Caline?ul Small, without difficulty, until near the tip of the ?imbalul Great.

For the case in which we want to get down to the Plaiul Foii, he had reached a line booster on the thread Padinei his Caline?, from the Scale of the Iron down, the last jumper being at the Shore of the Yellow (approx 55m). The time Scale of the Iron – spring Orlovski approx. 1.5-2 hours.

Topo

Topo

Creasta Piticului

Pictures


Creasta Piticului văzută din tr. Coarnele Caprei

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Creasta Piticului văzută din tr. Coarnele Caprei

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Map



Access route: Starting from the Chalet Plaiul Foii on marking tourist red triangle to the refuge of Hopes, down the Iron Staircase and the chimney from the continuation of her up in the valley Padina his Caline?. The bottom of the chimney (1642 m alt.) has been chosen by the ancestors as a landmark for the identification of entry points on the trails alpine Caline?.
We start the climb on the Padina's Caline? and after 20 km we reach the junction with the Chimney Deep (affluent on the right), from here we continue the session with the passage of 4 jumpers, of which the last more difficult (you can bypass), and at 140 m distance we arrive in an area with lots of detritus (1720 m alt.). Left and above (on the right of the valley) there is a valley wide, preceded by a jumper grassy, willing in increments. The edge furthest to the right, down to the close up of the thread Caline?ului, is called the Crest Horns of the Goat. Beyond the tree mentioned, padina narrows again, forming a corridor filled with debris, interrupted from place to place by small rapids. At about 30 m from the last layer (170 m from the chimney under the stairs of Iron) get into the right a sluice box stony, deep in the mountain, on the right bank of the Caline?ului, called Vâlcelul Dwarf (1750 m alt.).

The ridge on the right ends with a peak elongated, which leaves the impression of a mogâlde?e hardened, hence the name of the route. Access to the Crest of the Dwarf is done in along this valley until the close of the paragraph in which it shall change the inclination to the vertical and turns into a chimney (the Chimney of the Dwarf). From that point we continue to the right and then up to come out on top of jumpers, a wider one, that side of the ridge, located in the first half of it. Once on the girdle exposed, below some juniper trees and a small cave, we will identify the python assurance team for the first length.
Retreat route: Having a pool equipped with pitons, the withdrawal involves a little maneuvering of the chord. Thus the head of the chord will descend insured up to Strunga Dwarf (at the end of the Chimney of the Dwarf) and more on a chimney grass to Caline?ul Small, up to the python booster. The mate will pass the rope over the nose have anything to do that has been secured and will be spun by the head to get to the point of booster, desca?arând on the same route. The rappel of 50m us out in the thread Caline?ului Small, and here there are a few jumpers equipped with anchors booster, the last with a python.

From the point of confluence with Padina his Caline? there is a possibility to go down, avoiding the great jumpers of the Caline?ului, on trailul outlined on the left of the valley. Climbers who want to reach the Northern Ridge can follow upstream Caline?ul Small, without difficulty, until near the tip of the ?imbalul Great.

For the case in which we want to get down to the Plaiul Foii, he had reached a line booster on the thread Padinei his Caline?, from the Scale of the Iron down, the last jumper being at the Shore of the Yellow (approx 55m). The time Scale of the Iron – spring Orlovski approx. 1.5-2 hours.

Equipment


Creasta Piticului văzută din tr. Coarnele Caprei

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