Today we celebrate 65 years since Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 51 years since Hornul Mare-Negru (Bucura II - Peretele Nord-Estic) first ascent, 1 year since Muchia din dreapta Vaii lui Ivan (Valea lui Ivan) first ascent

Hornul Piticului 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 11.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 11.11.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Type: Classic route

 Hornul Piticului văzut din tr. Coarnele Caprei. 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsChimney

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Paul Fozocoş
Date: 11.08.1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The area of origin of the Vâlcelului Dwarf (a tributary on the right of the Caline?ului) formed the Chimney of the Dwarf. Up at the base of the chimney, the climb is made along this valley, which he outlines riverbed narrow between the Horns of the Goat on the right and the Crest of the Dwarf, extended by a shoulder on the left.

The trail follows initially the face from the right and then line the chimney which ends up in Strunga Dwarf. The last length of rope is carried out on the face corresponding to the tip end of the Ridge the Horns of the Goat. Can we skip this length and start desca?ararea by Caline?ul Small.
Information source
roclimbing.ro - http://www.roclimbing.ro/creasta-piticului-2/
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 265
Pentru autorii premierei, a se vedea Dan Vasilescu, Premiere alpine, Editura Romania Pitoreasca, pag. 196
Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada (FRAE) - Nomenclatorul traseelor de alpinism si escalada 2000, anexa 38
Versantul stang al Padinei lui Calinet, cod 10.10.1.16.
Sursa foto: Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: From the Chalet Plaiul Foii we follow the marking of the tourist red triangle to the refuge of Hopes, down the Iron Staircase and the chimney from the continuation of her up in the valley Padina his Caline?. The bottom of the chimney (1642 m alt.) has been chosen by the ancestors as a landmark for the identification of entry points on the trails alpine Caline?.
We start the climb on the Padina's Caline? and after 20 km we reach the junction with the Chimney Deep (affluent on the right), from here we continue the session with the passage of 4 jumpers, of which the last more difficult (you can bypass), and at 140 m distance we arrive in an area with lots of detritus (1720 m alt.). Left and above (on the right of the valley) there is a valley wide, preceded by a jumper grassy, willing in increments. The edge furthest to the right, down the close up of the thread Caline?ului, is called the Crest Horns of the Goat. Beyond the tree mentioned, padina narrows again, forming a corridor filled with debris, interrupted from place to place by small rapids. At about 30 m from the last layer (170 m from the chimney under the stairs of Iron) get into the right a sluice box stony, deep in the mountain, on the right bank of the Caline?ului, called Vâlcelul Dwarf (1750 m alt.).
The ridge on the right ends with a peak elongated, which leaves the impression of a mogâlde?e hardened, hence the name of the route. Access to the Crest of the Dwarf is done in along this valley until the close of the paragraph in which it shall change the inclination to the vertical and turns into a chimney (the Chimney of the Dwarf).
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours
Retreat route: From Strunga Dwarf (at the end of the Chimney of the Dwarf) desca?aram a chimney grass to Caline?ul Small, up to the python booster. Booster of 50 m we get in the thread Caline?ului Small, and here there are a few jumpers equipped with anchors booster, the last with a python.

From the point of confluence with Padina his Caline? there is a possibility to go down, avoiding the great jumpers of the Caline?ului, on trailul outlined on the left of the valley. Climbers who want to reach the Northern Ridge can follow upstream Caline?ul Small, without difficulty, until near the tip of the ?imbalul Great.

For the case in which we want to get down to the Plaiul Foii, he had reached a line booster on the thread Padinei his Caline?, from the Scale of the Iron down, the last jumper being at the Shore of the Yellow (approx 55m). The time Scale of the Iron – spring Orlovski approx. 1.5-2 hours.

Pictures


Hornul Piticului văzut din tr. Coarnele Caprei.

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Hornul Piticului văzut din tr. Coarnele Caprei.

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Map



Access route: From the Chalet Plaiul Foii we follow the marking of the tourist red triangle to the refuge of Hopes, down the Iron Staircase and the chimney from the continuation of her up in the valley Padina his Caline?. The bottom of the chimney (1642 m alt.) has been chosen by the ancestors as a landmark for the identification of entry points on the trails alpine Caline?.
We start the climb on the Padina's Caline? and after 20 km we reach the junction with the Chimney Deep (affluent on the right), from here we continue the session with the passage of 4 jumpers, of which the last more difficult (you can bypass), and at 140 m distance we arrive in an area with lots of detritus (1720 m alt.). Left and above (on the right of the valley) there is a valley wide, preceded by a jumper grassy, willing in increments. The edge furthest to the right, down the close up of the thread Caline?ului, is called the Crest Horns of the Goat. Beyond the tree mentioned, padina narrows again, forming a corridor filled with debris, interrupted from place to place by small rapids. At about 30 m from the last layer (170 m from the chimney under the stairs of Iron) get into the right a sluice box stony, deep in the mountain, on the right bank of the Caline?ului, called Vâlcelul Dwarf (1750 m alt.).
The ridge on the right ends with a peak elongated, which leaves the impression of a mogâlde?e hardened, hence the name of the route. Access to the Crest of the Dwarf is done in along this valley until the close of the paragraph in which it shall change the inclination to the vertical and turns into a chimney (the Chimney of the Dwarf).
Retreat route: From Strunga Dwarf (at the end of the Chimney of the Dwarf) desca?aram a chimney grass to Caline?ul Small, up to the python booster. Booster of 50 m we get in the thread Caline?ului Small, and here there are a few jumpers equipped with anchors booster, the last with a python.

From the point of confluence with Padina his Caline? there is a possibility to go down, avoiding the great jumpers of the Caline?ului, on trailul outlined on the left of the valley. Climbers who want to reach the Northern Ridge can follow upstream Caline?ul Small, without difficulty, until near the tip of the ?imbalul Great.

For the case in which we want to get down to the Plaiul Foii, he had reached a line booster on the thread Padinei his Caline?, from the Scale of the Iron down, the last jumper being at the Shore of the Yellow (approx 55m). The time Scale of the Iron – spring Orlovski approx. 1.5-2 hours.

Equipment


Hornul Piticului văzut din tr. Coarnele Caprei.

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