Fisura Verde 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 11.10.2014
edited by Ad Mini la data de 28.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Dumitru Marin
Date: 07.09.1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The right side of the Vâlcelului Secondary Caline? is formed of two walls that we referred to as the Upper Wall and the Lower Wall, separated between them by a girdle wide, oriented SW-ne.
The wall upstream of the waist (the Upper Wall) forms a enter enormous, elongated above my waist quote up to Strunga Ridge Beautiful.

The route has 6 lengths of rope and is provided with cams milestone, arranged at large distances.

Route Crack the Green is carried on the vertical Upper Wall. At the base of his get up on Vâlcelul Side of the Caline?ului and then to the left on the girdle that leads to the trail on the Ridge Beautiful. Climb starts from the right of the two big rocks, sticking out visibly from the vegetation waist.
After the first two lengths of rope, the route reaches about 10 m of the Crest of the Beautiful, where it follows a valley turf, devoid of interest alpine.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 263
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: From the confluence of the Chimney Deep, Caline?ul lining the valley four jumpers, arranged at certain distances. The first three are accessible and will overcome them through free climbing, on the fourth go around it, following the trailul outlined on the left bank, which puts us in the valley above.
Above the jumpers to fourth and 10 m upstream of the lip they (1 702 m alt.) it deepens in the wall a tall chimney that ends at the height of a belt of juniper trees. Here begins the trail Edge of the Arinului.

Move along Caline?ului about 33 m (140 m distance, counted from the right Waist of the Middle), and we get in an area with lots of detritus (1720 m alt.). Left and above (on the right of the valley) there is a valley wide, preceded by a jumper grassy, willing in increments. This constitutes the obstacle for the four alpine routes, including the face.
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours
Retreat route: The exit of the route, shared with of the Ridge Beautiful, ends up in point "The Pulpit", where we can follow the descent Vâlcelul with Rhododendron and Vâlcelul with the Window up in the tourist trail red triangle on the Girdle Ciorânga Great. Of there in 5-10 minutes we arrive at the Refuge of Hope.

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Access route: From the confluence of the Chimney Deep, Caline?ul lining the valley four jumpers, arranged at certain distances. The first three are accessible and will overcome them through free climbing, on the fourth go around it, following the trailul outlined on the left bank, which puts us in the valley above.
Above the jumpers to fourth and 10 m upstream of the lip they (1 702 m alt.) it deepens in the wall a tall chimney that ends at the height of a belt of juniper trees. Here begins the trail Edge of the Arinului.

Move along Caline?ului about 33 m (140 m distance, counted from the right Waist of the Middle), and we get in an area with lots of detritus (1720 m alt.). Left and above (on the right of the valley) there is a valley wide, preceded by a jumper grassy, willing in increments. This constitutes the obstacle for the four alpine routes, including the face.
Retreat route: The exit of the route, shared with of the Ridge Beautiful, ends up in point "The Pulpit", where we can follow the descent Vâlcelul with Rhododendron and Vâlcelul with the Window up in the tourist trail red triangle on the Girdle Ciorânga Great. Of there in 5-10 minutes we arrive at the Refuge of Hope.

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