Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Creasta Coarnele Caprei (The Crest Horns Of The Goat) 4A, 7- (6-, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 11.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 04.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 6-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsRidgeGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Ioan Nistor, Ion Mircan
Date: 06.1949
Repaired date: 13.09.2019


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Leaves a little bit to the left of the ridge to a small saddle, where you'll get maybe 15 or 20 feet. Once in the saddle, make sure the first python on the path, the python which is on the front of the left side of the seat. From the saddle continue on to the right side (at 3 to 4 feet, it's a ball python) in a small brîna grassy with a few trees to about 10 feet. Near the end of the brînei find a pin (be careful! the trail doesn't work on your chimney, what you can see in the continuation of the brînei), where we start a climb on the way out of the chimney with the steps, grass, which leads to the left rear. At the end of the latter, after about 8 meters, you'll get to a little piece of the rock, and a little bit higher than that on the right there is a piton into a fissure of the ground, the python is only visible if you get up on top ?ancului. Here is the list, but I don't, I've got the idea to bring together in one department, I'm gonna go down and I regroup by the laying of an anou around the ?ancului. The length is estimated at 40 feet. The strings rub the very, very, very bad, especially because of the piston at the end of the brânei.

LC2 - Leaving on one side slightly down the taricel was estimated from a 7 - provided some hands bad, and just above the switch for a beetle rated at level 6+. After the passage of the surplombei we continue our hike on a portion of the light and then we'll get a little brîna that goes on the right-hand side of the ridge to the vertical plate, where it is still a step taricel has a 7 - secured with a couple of hands, but it is of poor quality. After climbing the face, we keep it vertically about 8 to 10 m on the steps of the rock and the grass to find insurance, but there is a time where you can regroup with anou. The length is estimated at 45 to 50 feet. Again, there arises a high friction string.

LC3 - it Goes right on the edge. Insurance the rare. After about 40 to 42 km crossing-2 m to the left and keep going up the on to a portion of something a little more crumbly, for about 15 to 17 feet. We arrive at the base of a vertical wall where you can regroup with the anou on a rock. The length was estimated at 60 m , the light, but the rocks are unstable in the last part.

LC4 - Go to the left as the plate which forms the wall of a dihedral with a crack. Here, we can provide you with a anou's caught on as a small boulder embedded in the crack between the wall and the slab on up. Step, we estimate a 5+/6-. On the rock we continue on crossing over to the left more than the razor where do we find the first pin. From here we continue on the right edge meets any two of hands, and then, after about 30 km, desca?aram about 4 m. up on the verandah the sea is located at the top of the chimney, tunnel. In the chimney, about 5 feet, the bottom is nailed to two P-devices. I don't know why, or maybe there's another version that goes up the chimney instead of out on a limb. Here we have grouped together the mobile for the is already pulling hard on the ropes. The grouping from the old, it's probably about 10 feet away from an anchor located at the bottom of a sluice box. The length is estimated at 40 km up from the chimney of the tunnel, where we regrouped at the mobile, and for about 50 metres until the anchor at the base of the mountains.

LC5 - Of the funnel-tunnel and continuing toward the base of the mountains grass is visible on the right-hand side of the ridge. We climb for about 15 km, on the sluice box without the assurance, the care, the rocks are unstable. At the end of it, we'll get a brîna with a bunch of trees. Here we turn left into a small brîna, green roof, located at the base of the vertical faces, and make sure to take care of the first cam on the front. Up the front, lined with two feet off, make sure to clean is sufficient, but as bad as all the rings on this course. The step listed on the 6th. In the upper part of the face, we get pulled over by a beetle, which is where we make the traverse to the right, the last 2 I entered into a small chimney, which leads us towards the ridge. We continued on the ridge line and we all regrouped at a small saddle, with anou as a bum. The length is estimated at 45 km.

LC6 - Go along the ridge, through some juniper trees growing at the base of the face. Here we have a cam at the knee, and it is the grouping that we have not ended up preferring the rock met the bottom. On the face of it, about 3 feet above it, is an other security, a cam ring is knocked into a pocket. The ascent on this side is a top-rated, on the level 6/6+ On here, step it up a little bit and then go over to the right, along the edge, all the way up, without health insurance for about 20 km until we reach the top. The last part is slightly crumbly. The top re-of two hands bound with cords. The length was estimated at 60 km.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/07/creasta-coarnele-caprei-6lc-7-6-a0_10.html
Viorel Borteş - http://alpinet.org/main/articole/show_ro_t_amintindumi-de-vara-trecuta_id_2633.html
roclimbing.ro - http://www.roclimbing.ro/harti-si-topo/
Walter Kargel
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism, Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, București, 1984, pag. 261-263
Ion Coman, Am indragit muntii, 1963
Pentru autorii premierei, a se vedea Dan Vasilescu, Premiere alpine, Editura Romania Pitoreasca, pag. 196
Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada (FRAE) - Nomenclatorul traseelor de alpinism si escalada 2000, anexa 38, Versantul drept al Padinei lui Calinet, cod 10.10.1.15.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The Chalet Plaiul Foii we follow the route of the tour a red triangle at the Refuge of Hope, and a little bit before the haven make a right at the Ladder of the fire that one off as then the thread Padinei of Caline?. Immediately on the left as we climb up is the helmet, thread the Chimney, Down. Move past it and continue our way up the Main Thread of the Padinei of Caline? take a couple of jumpers to lower them to a spring the more you wish, the trail leaves the bottom of the valley climbing up on the right hand side and it will back into the thread after a few tens of meters. In the place where the trail comes down the wire, and we have a fine view of the beginning of the Ridge, the Horns of the Goat, and the Side of the Caline?ului. Here we leave the main thread and turn it to the left on the side after this one for a few hundred feet up, on the right hand side, we get to a small sloping green roof. There you start your course.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: From the top, make a rappel of 25 to 30 metres to the left as we climb and then get down on one vîlcel to the left-wing parties (NOTE (!) This is not the first vîlcel to the side of the ridge, but instead of the second). On the basis of the vîlcelului across the thread of a valley, perhaps the upper portion of the secondary Caline?ului, as then, on the Middle Top of the thread for a vîlcel which is on the top of the Ridge, the Horns of the Goat, this is totally beyond your grasp, pull-down and full of debris, but once we arrived at the base of the tree, it turns out to be very easy.
At the upper end of the vîlcel we arrive at a small saddle on the Edge of the ?imbalului the Sea, from where we'll descend to the left on a trail, rather than up we go into the area called "The Pulpit". From here, go around the corner of the level, up to the back of the nave. With the needle down onto the thread on the left, as you look towards the valley, following the footpath marked with the momîi, the trail follows the thread of the Vîlcelului to Smîrdar. The path up to the window, through which we are passing to the Vîlcelul to the Window, where a desca?arare and then, below that, a series of boosts bring us up close to the route of the tour a red triangle on the Girdle Ciorînga the Sea. Following the girdle to the left up five minutes from the town of Hope.

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Users who climbed the route


Adrian Scurtu - 13.09.2019, Vara
- 13.09.2019
Andrei - 06.08.2016, Vara
- 06.08.2016
Adi Min - 06.08.2016, Vara
- 06.08.2016
Cristian Popescu - 10.07.2013, Vara
- 10.07.2013
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 03.06.2012

Video - Bogdan Boja - 10.09.2011

Map



Access route: The Chalet Plaiul Foii we follow the route of the tour a red triangle at the Refuge of Hope, and a little bit before the haven make a right at the Ladder of the fire that one off as then the thread Padinei of Caline?. Immediately on the left as we climb up is the helmet, thread the Chimney, Down. Move past it and continue our way up the Main Thread of the Padinei of Caline? take a couple of jumpers to lower them to a spring the more you wish, the trail leaves the bottom of the valley climbing up on the right hand side and it will back into the thread after a few tens of meters. In the place where the trail comes down the wire, and we have a fine view of the beginning of the Ridge, the Horns of the Goat, and the Side of the Caline?ului. Here we leave the main thread and turn it to the left on the side after this one for a few hundred feet up, on the right hand side, we get to a small sloping green roof. There you start your course.
Retreat route: From the top, make a rappel of 25 to 30 metres to the left as we climb and then get down on one vîlcel to the left-wing parties (NOTE (!) This is not the first vîlcel to the side of the ridge, but instead of the second). On the basis of the vîlcelului across the thread of a valley, perhaps the upper portion of the secondary Caline?ului, as then, on the Middle Top of the thread for a vîlcel which is on the top of the Ridge, the Horns of the Goat, this is totally beyond your grasp, pull-down and full of debris, but once we arrived at the base of the tree, it turns out to be very easy.
At the upper end of the vîlcel we arrive at a small saddle on the Edge of the ?imbalului the Sea, from where we'll descend to the left on a trail, rather than up we go into the area called "The Pulpit". From here, go around the corner of the level, up to the back of the nave. With the needle down onto the thread on the left, as you look towards the valley, following the footpath marked with the momîi, the trail follows the thread of the Vîlcelului to Smîrdar. The path up to the window, through which we are passing to the Vîlcelul to the Window, where a desca?arare and then, below that, a series of boosts bring us up close to the route of the tour a red triangle on the Girdle Ciorînga the Sea. Following the girdle to the left up five minutes from the town of Hope.

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