Creasta Prieteniei 5A, (5c, A0)
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  • Diaries/Climbs (10)
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added by Ad Min la data de 11.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A0
Type: Classic route

 Sursă foto: Ciri Turcanu. Adnotări: Rupi 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsRidgeRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Roland Welkens, Ionel Coman
Date: 28.08.1960
Story: Link


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first length. As directed, we're going down into the base of the wall, and, after that, we tie into the rope, start climbing without pitons on the vertical axis of the side with the plugs which ends after 30 m on the platform in the pool.
In the second, it.c. get secure in your hands, and by using the footrests, a number of obstacles, bumps, along the line of the ridge, which becomes very narrow. Regroup after about 30 km, below the wall overhangt on a platform that tilted slightly to the outside.

Without losing in strength, the third for him.c. it presents among other things a barrier overhangt avoid by crossing to the left and to the right. The grouping of a perform on top of, above, by the characteristic profile of the frame of the stânca is located on the ridge, visible as early as the Session of Caline?.

From the pool we see in front of us, in the distance, the line of the cutting edge of the ridge, presenting a series of steps, and the savage is spectacular. For the fourth one.c. still a little rough, we expanded the initial face of the wall, and after that, out we we can do it without difficulty, a savage of a lower height. In the end, just before the pool, there is a wall of about 6 m, that you would get in using for insurance coverage of the two cams disposed on the trail.

By continuing to escalate, and in the fifth it.c. enjoy the beauty of the passages in the rock climbing encounter, taking into account the gap below us and to the problems of the balance to be made of the narrowness of the ridge. Take pictures and take in a passage, covered with the lichen-colored wood, which contrasts with the seninarile the white of the road.

In the sixth grade for him.c. urmam ridge, dotted with a variety of obstacles (towers, the small faces, with a prize of fine, etc.) above which we require different methods of climbing.

Take a couple of days we pick up head on the seventh for him.c. on which road there are two savage high. On the first go around, and on the second I climb up on the front panel. The grouping has held for 40 yards on a platforma range.

The lengths of the eighth, and the ninth of the chord, we getting more and more off the wall, what is the link with the Beautiful.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984
Liviu Enache - Topo
Walter Kargel
Foto Ciri

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In order to get to the base of the route the route goes from Refuge of Hope, through the Session of Caline?, and once you get down to the Scale of the Iron, turn to the left (the first valley), climbing up the obstacle of the original Chimney, a Deep breath. Beyond this, we continue to advance, climbing along the mountainside as the fire, avoiding the couple of jumpers located on the bottom of the valley. After 60 yards of walking and so we come to the Cave in the Middle of Wicker, small cavity, which is located at the end of the Book at the time of Wicker, and, a few feet above the thalweg of the flow of the Chimney, a Deep breath. Before you go down into the funnel, we can identify the on the opposite side of the first obstacle of the Crest of Friendship, to which the line is taking shape just perfect, and being bounded on the right by the ulucul Vâlcelului Side of the Chimney, a Deep breath.
Access duration: 2 1/2 hours
Retreat route: It is coming down on the Vâlcelul to rose bay, and on the Vâlcelul to the Window until we get on the tourist triangle of red from the Belt Ciorânga. From there, in 10 minutes you are at the Refuge of Hope.

Topo

Topo

Creasta Prieteniei

Pictures


Sursă foto: Ciri Turcanu. Adnotări: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă foto: Ciri Turcanu. Adnotări: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 01.05.2017

Map



Access route: In order to get to the base of the route the route goes from Refuge of Hope, through the Session of Caline?, and once you get down to the Scale of the Iron, turn to the left (the first valley), climbing up the obstacle of the original Chimney, a Deep breath. Beyond this, we continue to advance, climbing along the mountainside as the fire, avoiding the couple of jumpers located on the bottom of the valley. After 60 yards of walking and so we come to the Cave in the Middle of Wicker, small cavity, which is located at the end of the Book at the time of Wicker, and, a few feet above the thalweg of the flow of the Chimney, a Deep breath. Before you go down into the funnel, we can identify the on the opposite side of the first obstacle of the Crest of Friendship, to which the line is taking shape just perfect, and being bounded on the right by the ulucul Vâlcelului Side of the Chimney, a Deep breath.
Retreat route: It is coming down on the Vâlcelul to rose bay, and on the Vâlcelul to the Window until we get on the tourist triangle of red from the Belt Ciorânga. From there, in 10 minutes you are at the Refuge of Hope.

Equipment


Sursă foto: Ciri Turcanu. Adnotări: Rupi

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