Today we celebrate 68 years since Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 20 years since Sărutul Pământului (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 8 years since Feţele din Stânga Lirei (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent

Fisura Galbenă 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 06.04.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dumitru Chivu, Matei Schenn
Date: 05.07.1971


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route abounds in passages of free climbing, very delicate. In the second and fourth the length of the chord considered the toughest, the head of the chord has to solve a few passes complicated where skill and fantasy are crucial. By the position of the route to the region,
climbers can complete your knowledge on a wildlife areas, bounded by the two cordons: the Girdle Ciorânga Great and Girdle Top.

From the point of ramification, signalled in the text of the artery of the base, deviate to the right, following a passage in the aisle of pines, at the base of the route. The obstacle initially, on the vertical of which is to conduct the first length of the chord, presents a crack closed, along which we climb with the help of pitonslor. A good platform encountered at 40 m allows us to execute the belay station.

The second length of the chord is the portion of the toughest of the route. The first 8 m of climbing doesn't change too much look ahead of the obstacles encountered in the previous length of the chord, further, however, the crack opens more, dipping obliquely to the right and
surplombând frequently. The friction of the string and smoothness of the outlets found it difficult to advance. The range ends on a balance beam narrow, where we regroup.

The third length of rope, easier but still exposed, we start with a crossing of 3 m to the right. After this distance we regroup, using for insurance the two cams existing.

The fourth length of the chord is approaching by the difficulty of the passages of the second lengths of chord. At the beginning we use for forward the line of a crack completely vertical, which presents at different intervals pitons for insurance. At a point in the beetle linger more, to take measures for the driver without the friction of the ropes through the pitons. Above surplombei, the wall loses of inclination, which allows us to move forward by free climbing up to the platform staging on which a meeting after the run-up to the 40 metres of rope.

Escalate fifth lengths of the chord does not present passages that exceed the grade 4-5 difficulty. That's why, sometimes free climbing allows us to move forward more quickly. The interval ends after 40 m, on a ridge elongated in the right Waist Ciorânga Sea to the Girdle from the Top.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984, pag. 234-235
- Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 50.5" E 25° 13' 21.5"    
Access route: After about 100 m, counted from the Canyon Ciorânga Great, we get to the right point of entry on the route Crack
Yellow. The place is breezy especially through deforestation and signaled with text written on the wall.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: In the case in which we don't want to get on the ridge, from the Girdle Up, we can perform the descent on an itinerary more difficult. Thus, directing us to the left (with your back to the direction in which I climbed the route), go down diagonally until Vâlcelul Washing, close enough. After we cross the thalweg and climb on the opposite slope, we reach a ridge. In this place we see outlined a sluice box, along which without difficulty, descend to the Girdle Ciorânga Great.

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Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 50.5" E 25° 13' 21.5"    
Access route: After about 100 m, counted from the Canyon Ciorânga Great, we get to the right point of entry on the route Crack
Yellow. The place is breezy especially through deforestation and signaled with text written on the wall.
Retreat route: In the case in which we don't want to get on the ridge, from the Girdle Up, we can perform the descent on an itinerary more difficult. Thus, directing us to the left (with your back to the direction in which I climbed the route), go down diagonally until Vâlcelul Washing, close enough. After we cross the thalweg and climb on the opposite slope, we reach a ridge. In this place we see outlined a sluice box, along which without difficulty, descend to the Girdle Ciorânga Great.

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