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Traseul Central al Lirei (The Central route of the Pound) 5A, 7-/7 (6, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 03.10.2017

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
French grade: TD-
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-/7
Type: Classic route

Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ioan Neagoe (Nuşu), Răzvan Budac
Date: 1996

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

To climb safely the route are needed a set of mobile, hammer and a few pitons. The first 3 lengths climbs exclusively to mobile, last 3, more heavy, have pitons and steps forced.
The trail starts 150 m from the walk the Canyon Ciorânga, on the left side, on a face with many cracks (clints big).

LC 1: it goes up, then slightly left and up, bringing together on a platform on the right side. Grade 5, 20 m

LC 2: Traverse left, then up the chimneyule?, allowing insurance mobile. It follows a gray area, with the faces down and the circus of grass. Places for mobile must be sought carefully. Grade 6, 58 m

LC 3: the Length of the traverse 30 m to the left, slightly downward, on top of juniper trees, crossing vâlcelul the Edge of the Bumblebee. Regroup at the base of the wall, under a chimneyule? (drain). Grade 2, 30 m

LC 4: Starting with the length of 4-the trail gets harder, but with only 3-4 pitons, the end of them not having insurance fixed, but it is easier. Go up on the channel drain, with sockets particularly adherent and pitons solid. After overcoming chimneyule?ului, continue to the right towards a small dihedral, followed by a face easy leads us on the girdle of the common with Stones the Pound. Regrupaml at 2 pitons. Grade 6+, 50 m

LC 5: it Is the most difficult. Go on a crack above the pool, secured with pitons. The steps required are to grade 6, and insurance are not frequent. After 15m traverse right long, without insurance fixed, where it would be good to put mobile. After the crossing we catch a crack clear, with some grass in places. Step free is in the final part of the length, grade 7. Follows a new crossing short, but exposed to the right and regroup, hang in the harness. Degree 7-/7, 35 m

LC 6: Start on one side secured with a single piton, on top of the pool, then we orient toward the ceiling of the overhanging climbing the Chimney, which passes through the left, directly, without the use of rings in the route remembered, located 2m to the right. Above the ceiling we face difficult (7-), where we can secure to the side with a friend, and then get out on the doorsteps of good and light up the juniper trees. Degree 6+/7-, 25 m
Information source
Cătălin Crețu -

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access duration: 3 hours



Traseul Central al Lirei



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GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"