17 yeas ago, Alexandru Beldie was leaving us.

Traseul Central al Lirei 5A, 7-/7 (6, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 18.11.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
French grade: TD-
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-/7
Type: Classic route

Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ioan Neagoe (Nuşu), Răzvan Budac
Date: 1996

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

In order to climb up into the safety of the route it is necessary to set the movable hammer and a few pitons. The first 3 lengths of climbing exclusively in the mobile -, latest 3, is more difficult, they were clean, and the steps required.
The trail begins about 150 meters of walking on the Canyon Ciorânga, on the left-hand side, on the face side, with a lot of cracks (included large).

LK 1: it's going up, then slightly left and up, bringing together on one platform, on the right-hand side. Grade-5, 20 m,

LK 2: Traverse left, then up the chimneyule?, the area of permitting, insurance, mobile. Next is a gray area, with the faces of the fallen, and the circus of the lawn. Places for cell phones have to be sought very carefully. Grade 6, 58 m

LC-3: the Length of the traverse 30 m to the left, slightly downwards, on the top of the pines, crossing vâlcelul the Edge of the bumble bee. Regroup at the base of the wall, under a chimneyule? (drain). Grade 2, 30 m

LK 4: Starting with a length of 4-the trail becomes more difficult, but with only 3 or 4 hands, it's the end because they don't have the insurance fixed it, but it's still not easy. Climb up the drain plugs are particularly sticky, and the clean sound. After the passing of the chimneyule?ului, keep to the right, a little dihedral, followed by a light that leads us on the girdle of the common by Those of the Pound. Re-2's hands. Level-6+ 50 m

LK 5: this Is one of the most difficult. We go over a crack on top of the pool, provided with the cams better. The steps required are at level 6, the and the insurance company are not common. After 15m traverse the long, right-hand, without insurance, are fixed, where would be a good to get cell phones. After the crossing we get a leak of clear, with some grass here and there. Up for free, it's at the end of the length of the grade 7's. There is another crossing a short, but exposed on the right side, and the reform hanging in the harness. Grade 7-a/7, 35 meters

LK 6: Start on one side, secured with a single pin, on top of the pool, and then towards the ceiling of the overhanging climbing the Chimney, which passes through the left side, directly, without the use of rings in the route, remember, being the 2nd from the right. On top of the ceiling, we face difficult (7-a), where we can secure the side with a friend, and then go out on the doorsteps, the good and the light up the pines. Grade 6+/7-of 25 m
Information source
Cătălin Crețu - https://get.google.com/albumarchive/116734182185530304205/album/AF1QipNGlxoLqPRjMCpnscTbHImoQ1PJ4lzF_3z06i_6?source=pwa

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: Valcelul Window



Traseul Central al Lirei



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GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Retreat route: Valcelul Window