Surplomba Hornului (Overhanging Climbing Chimney) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 03.11.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsOverhangRoofChimney

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dumitru Chivu, Matei Schenn
Date: 07.07.1971
First winter ascent: Dumitru Chivu, Miklós Nagy
Date: 1971


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The wall that forms the right slope of the Canyon Ciorânga Great received the name of the Wall Ciorânga Great. On his line of greatest slope, aiming in the final portion of an impressive beetle, the master of sport Dumitru Chivu and master emeritus of sport Matthew Schenn have established a formidable alpine route. In the lower portion, the obstacles encountered along the way are overcome by free climbing, and in the upper, escalate complicated ask ca?aratorilor a technical high-class.

In the first length of rope that measures 40 km, climb free, intersecting, through a deviation to the right, and route the Flagstones of the Pound. Regrouping a execute beyond a clump of juniper trees.

Aim to the right we distinguish as outlined in the wall three scocuri. Scocul on the left represents the obstacle of the second length of rope Sockets good, we allow a climbing free, using for insurance, on the deployment of the 40 m chord, just a python.

In the third the length of the chord, the passages become inclined. Outlets best allow us, however, to insist in free climbing, rings using them rarely and only in the key points. So, up on the platform by the pool, found at the 30 m, they were only required three pitons.

Echoing escalate in the fourth length of rope, we attach much attention to the submission, especially that the obstacles to powerful inclined, acting work on footwork on a few pitons fixed weaker. Note that here the passages of free climbing, which abound, are extremely delicate. Platform by the pool, punctuated by a few juniper trees, a meet after about 35 km.

It is a good opportunity for rest and preparation of materials in order to overcome the most difficult obstacle on the trail - big chimney - locked to the output of a ceiling. The 15 km that separate us from it presents actually the prelude of the fifth lengths of rope. After
this distance and still engage in a climbing complicated. Outside the driver string, we will pay particular attention to the lespezilor unstable inside the obstacle. Bringing together a run after the extent of the complete of the 40 m chord, at 3 m under the ceiling that closes the exit of the chimney.

The obstacle initially of the sixth lengths of a chord is the last 3 I what separate us from the ceiling. Up under him introduce the strings in the rings existing. So make sure, start the attack ”Ceiling White”, for whose passing the direct use python with the expansion set by the filmmakers of the route. In this way we solve the direct passage of the projection, leaving the outside vertical wall of about 2 m. Beyond “the Ceiling Black”, the passage does not lose of the difficulty, but returns to the vertical. Help of pitons and using at maximum the footrests, move extremely heavy due to the string, which have high friction. That's why, after 25 km, we are obliged to execute the belay station of “the python" in the stirrups.

The last 35 m, measured as of the seventh the length of the chord, we go through on a face flushed, on the vertical which we can go no further than using
rings. And here we meet a python with the expansion, fixes to solve the passage more than a douche. The trail ends on the edge of which, up to the right, leads us in the Girdle Up.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984
Walter Kargel

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: Downstream of the entrance on the trail Slabs of the Pound, to 2-3 m, it is the point from which you start climbing our route. The first lengths are common with the Edge of the Bumblebee.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: On Vâlcelul with the Window - Sash Ciorânga Great. From the waist get in the 5-10 min back to the Refuge of Hope.

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Topo

Surplomba Hornului

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Users who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 29.09.2019, Vara
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Lucian Apostu - 29.09.2019
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Carmen Popa - 29.09.2019
- 29.09.2019

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Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: Downstream of the entrance on the trail Slabs of the Pound, to 2-3 m, it is the point from which you start climbing our route. The first lengths are common with the Edge of the Bumblebee.
Retreat route: On Vâlcelul with the Window - Sash Ciorânga Great. From the waist get in the 5-10 min back to the Refuge of Hope.

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