Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Lespezile Lirei (Those Of) 5B, 7-/7 (6, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 23.08.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-/7
Type: Classic route

 Ansamblu Perete 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: W
Length: 5-6 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangDihedralCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Paul Fozocoş, Ion Oancea
Date: 08-09.06.1957
Repaired: Ciprian Turcanu, Arpad Adam
Date: 09.2017


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

This is one of the most beautiful routes of the limestone of the country, and a "dance-rock". The track was recently fixed with expansion bolts (zinc plated steel) in such a way: the combined expansion bolts, with the ears crafted out with the chain and the ring is return (the ears are made from normal, untreated or electro-galvanized/zinc-plated, and they're already starting to get a little rust at the joints; the good news is that there are very, very thick, both the chain as well as the ears), and the length of the ears of the fixed (all galvanised steel). LK 2: 4 expansion bolts (the direct route), LK 3: 4 expansion bolts (3 at the crossing of the right side of the pool, one as the step length). LC 5+6: 3 to 4 expansion bolts.



LC-1 - From the Canyon Ciorânga goes to the left of a chimney, fallen, and deprived of the insurance company, but it's not as difficult as it seems. After about 15 to 18 km out of it on a small ledge, then continue to the 3 -, 4 m. to the right at the base of the chimney wide, the get a 6 to 8 km, until we get to the first pin, it hit right in the middle of the chimney. Continue up the chimney until it is shut down, on top of being a bunch of juniper trees and a dried-up tree. Here you turn right on the one side and the rapids on the climb for about 10 km until the end jnepenii and then make a left around the back of the tree all the way up to 10 km on one belt, with pines on your left and the cliff on the right, which you can find a reticulated python. Reform 2-expansion bolts and chain. The length is easy, it is 57 feet and the two insurance companies. They can ensure a in the low if you feel the need to.
LC-2 Has 2 variants. The original: you get out of the pool to the right, the trail heading up to the start at about 2-3 feet away from the dihedral. Once you make sure for two or three nails to cross over to the left and continue on the dihedral, the latter being interrupted at two locations by the lower thresholds in grasslands. The most direct: In the pool we go up the crack, on the line of the spiturilor (3 to 4 expansion bolts + 1 piton), a variant that is more beautiful, and stronger than the original one.

In the upper part of the diedrului insurance, there are more and more rare, but they can't carry the insurance, your mobile. It brings together, under one arch overhangta, quite uncomfortably, to a 2-expansion bolts and chain. Its length is 38 km, and the extent to 6.
LC-3 Is going to the right, through the archway, across the face gently down, and with a few of the outlets in your feet. After the passing of this portion is reached at a vertical crack, where we have a ball python, very solid. Cross the right hand over the crack (no-up to the rings that we see on this one), will be raised up to a vertical face where you have two hands, each holding a loop of the corelina. You will cross the fix at the right, and if you're a very, very long arms, can catch it at the right edge sound. The movement is out of balance, somewhere in the 6+/7-. The 2 or 3 I end on a ledge with grass, where there is a new hospital. From here, continue about 6 feet upward right up until at some sort of cave, where we can bring together (only 25 meters far; the grouping is part of the Les Step Rvenus). Continue diagonally right over a few more rapids easy, with the insurance, on rare, and then get a crack to swell up to a threshold of grass where we're trending upward right into a small corner of the rock at the bottom of the face of an easy out. Reform 2-expansion bolts and chain. The length is 45 m, and the difficulty of 6+/7- the treversarea on the front of the vertical.
LC-4 at a time will cross a little to the right of the prinzînd to a drain of the drain of which provides the power outlets are generous in both the hands and the feet. Get off it about 6 or 7 km and then cross the left side to the pin, not visible at the time, and up to 1 m. from this we can find a new cam is very solid. Keep it vertically over a couple of thresholds by aiming at a small chimney on top of which, we come to a brîna green roof on a continuing upward trend left up to the end. At the entrance of the brîna, and by the end they didn't find more than one department. Regroup at the end of the brânei 2 expansion bolts and chain. The length is 45 m, and level 5+ in the gutter to the drain.
LC-5 Is going vertical in the dihedral to the first beetle, which is a bypass to the right, and then turn to the right, a few feet away from you to avoid a portion of the very flushed back into the dihedral a little bit higher. This is the original version. However, we also have the ability to browse through and with straight-up, ensuring that the new hospital built. Ethically, it would be better if you go through the source to ignore the new hospital. Keep upright for a second beetle, which go around the whole on the right side. We can regroup here a little bit awkward, a 2-expansion bolts and chain (or rope/ropes of 60m, keep going). The length is 33m, grade 6/6+.



LC-6 - All of the above, we arrive at the third beetle. Here we have a provision for the right of one long edge. We're under the beetle, to the right, and as soon as we start to climb back up, the line of the pitonslor cross the overhanging climbing to the left of the updraft over a washed up where we are at the beginning, 1 hospital, 1 department, 1 hospital and still have a ball python, very strong and very close. Crack with pitons, and expansion bolts is the best, for the 7+, but you can get on the one on the left at 1 m distance, which is slightly more gentle on the 7th. From here we continue towards the ridge, through a portion of the light, and when he came to the area with the pines, and then on a truck (what's left of them is a cave), where the re-1 spit with rope in orange and the link. The length is 25 m, and a level 7 or 7+ depending on the version being discussed.



Last-longer is one way to go, why the go around, with all overhanging climbing to the end, to the right (ignore the line spiturilor and pitonslor, and continue up the crack). Regardless of the line being addressed, the 2 lengths can be joined together by the ropes of 60m, and is intended for use, thus avoiding the need to regroup an intermediate position.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984
Pentru autorii premierei, a se vedea Dan Vasilescu, Premiere alpine, Editura Romania Pitoreasca, pag. 196
Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada (FRAE) - Nomenclatorul traseelor de alpinism si escalada 2000, anexa 37
Valea Cioranga Mare, cod 10.09.2.05.
Cristi Popescu - http://www.totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2014/08/lespezile-lirei-5a-7-a1-56lc.html
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2010/06/20100612-lespezile-lirei-piatra.html
Walter Kargel

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: The Chalet Plaiul Foii we're going on the mark of the tourist triangle of red at the Refuge of Hope, then keep going down the same mark on the Belt Ciorânga up across the Canyon Ciorânga. Right at the entrance to the canyon, we could see chimneyule?ul what constitutes the start of the first lengths of the track.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: Option 1 (walking distance): From the pool goes down into a tank of a cliff that can be bypassed with the right hand on a small vîlcel with a low return on top of it all the way upright as much as possible, on the skirts of the rock. It goes straight up into the sky through the pines, meets in the room at the small brîie that, out of the way. Keep it up until the left side is the helmet of a broad valley, above which we can see the Girdle to the Top, our goal. We're at the top, slightly right, following a faint path through the pines, until the end, and we'll get into the belt making it to the right until the Needle is out of the Pulpit, from where you get off on the Vâlcelul to rose bay at Vîlcelul to the Window, and after the completion of the latter, there is a crossroad, the path marked, a red triangle, which is followed to the left leads in a short time at the Refuge of Hope.


Option 2 (boosting): it Is not recommended if you hurry up, if you don't want to fight with the jnepenii. Because of this variation, it is necessary to go up the trail with the 2-semicorzi.

For those of you with a half ropes of 60m: They get a reminder from 57-58m, up on the platform the advance of the crack (to come down over the last 2 lengths). Following the booster, 60m fixed, it on the face of it out from under us (and we'll see it on the left side of our pool in the Les, Step Rvenus), and you'll get 60m from the grouping of the Les, Step Rvenus, it's the one below the cave. The next abseil is 45m, up to a big tree with a lot of cords. The next 45 m. all the way down.
For those of you with a half ropes of 50 m: given 2 boosts of about 25, and 35m up on the girdle at the base of the crack. Next, a reminder directed to the left-20-25m up in the grouping of the Les, Step Rvenus. Then, each of the 35 to 40 by belay station under the hole. The next abseil is 45m, up to a big tree with a lot of cords. The next 45 m. all the way down.

Topo

Topo

Lespezile Lirei

Pictures


Ansamblu Perete

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Diaries & links



Ansamblu Perete

Users who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 21.07.2019, Vara
- 21.07.2019
Cosmin Nicola - 21.07.2019, Vara
- 21.07.2019
Andrei - 06.10.2018
- 06.10.2018Traseu reparat cu ancore mecanice (otel zincat) in regrupari si in pasi. In regrupari s-au montat urechi cu lant (manufacturate). Atat urechile cat si lantul sunt f groase, insa de material diferit. Pe lungimi avem astfel: LC 2: 4 spituri, LC 3: 4 spituri, LC 5, sparta in 2 (pt cei cu corzi scurte): 1 spit, noua LC 6: 2-3 spituri (LC5+LC6 se pot uni, 60m).
Adi Min - 06.10.2018
- 06.10.2018Am iesit pe dreapta in ulltima lungime. Secundul a iesit pe la surplomba.
Jabon - 06.10.2018
- 06.10.2018Am iesit pe dreapta in ulltima lungime. Secundul a iesit pe la surplomba.
Radu Ciofringeanu - 01.10.2017
- 01.10.2017
Iulia Darie - 01.10.2017
- 01.10.2017
Adrian Scurtu - 17.09.2017, Vara
- 17.09.2017
Andrei - 07.08.2016, Vara
- 07.08.2016
Adi Min - 07.08.2016, Vara
- 07.08.2016
LauraB - 10.07.2016, Vara
- 10.07.2016https://get.google.com/albumarchive/10608324874...
Andrei Gurgu - 18.06.2016, Vara
- 18.06.2016
Andrei - 07.06.2015, Vara
- 07.06.2015
Cristian Popescu - 20.08.2014, Vara
- 20.08.2014
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Andrei Vlad

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 28.06.2014

Video - Bogdan Boja  - 02.10.2012

Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: The Chalet Plaiul Foii we're going on the mark of the tourist triangle of red at the Refuge of Hope, then keep going down the same mark on the Belt Ciorânga up across the Canyon Ciorânga. Right at the entrance to the canyon, we could see chimneyule?ul what constitutes the start of the first lengths of the track.
Retreat route: Option 1 (walking distance): From the pool goes down into a tank of a cliff that can be bypassed with the right hand on a small vîlcel with a low return on top of it all the way upright as much as possible, on the skirts of the rock. It goes straight up into the sky through the pines, meets in the room at the small brîie that, out of the way. Keep it up until the left side is the helmet of a broad valley, above which we can see the Girdle to the Top, our goal. We're at the top, slightly right, following a faint path through the pines, until the end, and we'll get into the belt making it to the right until the Needle is out of the Pulpit, from where you get off on the Vâlcelul to rose bay at Vîlcelul to the Window, and after the completion of the latter, there is a crossroad, the path marked, a red triangle, which is followed to the left leads in a short time at the Refuge of Hope.


Option 2 (boosting): it Is not recommended if you hurry up, if you don't want to fight with the jnepenii. Because of this variation, it is necessary to go up the trail with the 2-semicorzi.

For those of you with a half ropes of 60m: They get a reminder from 57-58m, up on the platform the advance of the crack (to come down over the last 2 lengths). Following the booster, 60m fixed, it on the face of it out from under us (and we'll see it on the left side of our pool in the Les, Step Rvenus), and you'll get 60m from the grouping of the Les, Step Rvenus, it's the one below the cave. The next abseil is 45m, up to a big tree with a lot of cords. The next 45 m. all the way down.
For those of you with a half ropes of 50 m: given 2 boosts of about 25, and 35m up on the girdle at the base of the crack. Next, a reminder directed to the left-20-25m up in the grouping of the Les, Step Rvenus. Then, each of the 35 to 40 by belay station under the hole. The next abseil is 45m, up to a big tree with a lot of cords. The next 45 m. all the way down.

Equipment


Ansamblu Perete

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