Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Muchia Bondarului (The Edge Of The Bumblebee) 4B, 6+ (5+/6-, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 30.10.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+/6-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Vedere ansamblu Peretele Ciorânga Mare 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsRidgeCrackChimneyTreesRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Mircea Opriş
Date: 29.08.1980
Repaired: Arpad Adam
Date: 24.10.2018
Story: Link


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is spectacular and the air. It was repaired with anchors mechanical both in pools and in steps.



LC 1, 45m - start at the entrance to the Canyon Ciorânga Great with a first chimney narrow in that it can provide to the 2 boulders embedded in the second chimney, the shorter, is beat up a python. At the end of this chimney turn right entering on the line of a valley of the rocky open which goes approximately 4 km. Regroup on the left vâlcelului, from a tree to which are related several cords.
LC 2 35m - continuous slightly oblique to the right on the vâlcelul what acquires the appearance of chimney. On this length is a python, and the grouping is on the left, on a platform drawers, green roof, where we find 2 expansion bolts.

LC 3, the 57m - keep up, all slightly skew right. Climbing gets more exposed, but the configuration of the route allows for the choice of the different variants. It climbs through a chimney wide, and when it closes it around to the right. On this length we find the 3 pitons. Regrouping is the chest of drawers, on a platform/girdle with jnepeni? at 2 pitons.

LC 4, 40m - start on the girdle above mentioned, by the right edge (which presents itself as a razor) and above directly on this up. The passages are free, with the pitons rare and far apart, the inclination is close to vertical. Of all levels of difficulty IV / IV+. Regroup at the base of a time small, easily detached from the edge. The belay station is quite comfortable and has 3 pitons.

LC 5, the 57m - length can start by the left, through a chimney small format of time and wall, or through the right on an exposed face, vertical, slightly to the right and up towards the rift, then continue on the ridge line. After about 15m find 2 pitons where we can set up a pool of intermediate (uncomfortable). Here you are entering into a crack at the end of which it crosses to the right on a plate washed, easy overhangnta, in which you have some sockets fine for his hand, and his feet go to the adhesion (the key passage of the route). It comes in the right side of a tower, formed by the edge. Continuing on it up a step rocky where we find a first platform where they were belay station at the mobile, coltan of rock or boulder embedded (multiple possibilities).

LC 6, 40m - get up on the doorsteps of good rock on a valley/dihedral at the end of which, on a platform chest of drawers regroup at a python painted with yellow. On this length we have not found any python.

* The entire length of the route, at need, it can supplement insurance using mobile or hog rings after the corners of the rock.
Information source
Descriere - Ilie Nedelea (08.2018)
Liviu Enache, Nedelea Ilie - Topo

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: From the Chalet Plaiul Foii go on tourist's mark red triangle to the Refuge of Hopes and then continue on the same marking on the Girdle Ciorânga Great up to the 3rd valley (the first valley is Vâlcelul with Window, 2nd Vâlcelul with Rhododendron and 3rd Canyon Ciorânga Great). We on the valley and immediately on the left as you climb we have the entry in the route.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: From the point in which I went out catch a path frail, to the right, and continue on it through a portion of jnepeni?, first, and then through the grass toward the trail Book at the Top. Get here in a few minutes, next to a small saddle and continue on the path, now clear and wide, to the right. After crossing two ravines, figure out the unmistakable silhouette of the Needle from the Pulpit (good place for photo and the rest).

From here, descend obliquely to the right (the direction of travel) in the thread Vâlcelului with Rhododendron and we're careful, on the left side at the Window. It descends at first on a trail good, subsequently on the line through the scree. Pass through Window in the Vâlcelul with the Window where the descent is elementary (just a couple of helpful light). At the end of the Vâlcelului with the Window intersect the path marked red triangle on the Girdle Ciorânga Large in the vicinity of the Refuge of Hope. Make a left on this trail and we reach in 5 min to the Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Sursa: Ilie Nedelea

Pictures


Vedere ansamblu Peretele Ciorânga Mare

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 27.06.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Lucian

Vedere ansamblu Peretele Ciorânga Mare

Users who climbed the route


Alexander Edelweiss - 11.08.2019, Vara
- 11.08.2019
Cosmin Nicola - 06.07.2019
- 06.07.2019
Dorin Cristea - 29.06.2019, Vara
- 29.06.2019
Dorin Cristea - 08.11.2018, Vara
- 08.11.2018
Iuli Darie - 26.08.2018, Vara
- 26.08.2018
Andrei Vlad - 26.08.2018, Vara
- 26.08.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 25.05.2017, Vara
- 25.05.2017
Andrei - 28.06.2014
- 28.06.2014
Vlad Grigore - 28.06.2014
- 28.06.2014
Dorin Cristea - 08.07.2007, Vara
- 08.07.2007
Adi Min - 01.01.1900, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Iuli Darie

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Bogdan Boja - 31.08.2018

Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: From the Chalet Plaiul Foii go on tourist's mark red triangle to the Refuge of Hopes and then continue on the same marking on the Girdle Ciorânga Great up to the 3rd valley (the first valley is Vâlcelul with Window, 2nd Vâlcelul with Rhododendron and 3rd Canyon Ciorânga Great). We on the valley and immediately on the left as you climb we have the entry in the route.
Retreat route: From the point in which I went out catch a path frail, to the right, and continue on it through a portion of jnepeni?, first, and then through the grass toward the trail Book at the Top. Get here in a few minutes, next to a small saddle and continue on the path, now clear and wide, to the right. After crossing two ravines, figure out the unmistakable silhouette of the Needle from the Pulpit (good place for photo and the rest).

From here, descend obliquely to the right (the direction of travel) in the thread Vâlcelului with Rhododendron and we're careful, on the left side at the Window. It descends at first on a trail good, subsequently on the line through the scree. Pass through Window in the Vâlcelul with the Window where the descent is elementary (just a couple of helpful light). At the end of the Vâlcelului with the Window intersect the path marked red triangle on the Girdle Ciorânga Large in the vicinity of the Refuge of Hope. Make a left on this trail and we reach in 5 min to the Refuge.

Equipment


Vedere ansamblu Peretele Ciorânga Mare

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