Muchia Bondarului 4B, 6+ (5+/6-, A0)
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  • Diaries/Climbs (33)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 18.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+/6-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsRidgeCrackChimneyTreesRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Mircea Opriş
Date: 29.08.1980
Repaired: Arpad Adam
Date: 24.10.2018
Story: Link


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is spectacular from the air. It has been fixed with the anchor, mechanical, both in the pool and in the distance.



LK 1, 45 m - starting at the entrance to the Canyon of the Ciorânga Great with a close up of the chimney, narrow to ensure that the 2 boulders embedded in the second chimney, the shorter, is beaten by a ball python. At the end of the chimney to the right on entering, on the line of a valley of the rocky open, which goes for about 4 km. They're forming up on the left vâlcelului, a tree that has multiple cords.
LC is a 2-35m - continuous slightly oblique to the right, on the vâlcelul what it takes on the appearance of the chimney. On the length of a reticulated python, and the grouping is to the left, on a platform of quality green roof, where you can find 2 expansion bolts.

LC-3, the 57m - keep it up, all slightly skew to the right. The climb becomes more and more exposed, but the configuration of the trail allows for selection of various options. It goes up through the chimney wide, while at the time it shuts down is go around to the right. In this range we find the 3 cams. The grouping is excellent, the platform/belt with jnepeni? on 2 hands.

LC-4, 40 - start of the belt above the right side of the edge (which is presented as a bar), and directly above this on the top. The passages are free, with a clean, rare and wide, the inclination is close to vertical. Of all levels of difficulty, IV / IV+. Forming the basis of a schedule of small, easily detached from the limb. The grouping is pretty handy and he has 3 hands.

LC-5, that the 57m length of the can starting from the left, with a chimney in the small format of a time, and the wall, or the exposed face, vertical, slightly to the right and up towards the crack, and then continue on the line of the ridge. After about 15 yards and find the 2 hands where you can set up a pool of intermediate (awkward). Here you are entering into a crack on the end which you will cross to the right side, on a plate-clear, easy-surplombanta, you have a bunch of sockets that the arm and the feet are going to grip (the key passage of the route). It all adds up in the right-hand side of the tower, formed out of the edge. Following on from this, move up a step, rocky, where do we find the first platform, where they were bringing together the mobile, coltan of the rock or boulder is embedded (multiple possibilities).

LC-6, 40 m - get up on your doorsteps the best of the rock of a valley/dihedral at the end of which, on a platform, a comfortable re of a pin coated in yellow. In this range we did not find any pin.

* The entire length of the route, if necessary, can supplement the insurance company, using your mobile, or hog rings after that the corners of the stone.
Information source
Descriere - Ilie Nedelea (08.2018)
Liviu Enache, Nedelea Ilie - Topo

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: The Chalet Plaiul Foii we're going on the mark of the tourist triangle of red at the Refuge of Hope, then keep going down the same mark on the Belt Ciorânga to the 3rd valley (the valley is Vâlcelul to the Window of the 2nd Vâlcelul to rose bay, and the 3rd in the Canyon of the Ciorânga the Sea). We get in the valley, and immediately on the left as you go up, we have the beginning of the trail.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: From the point at which we come out we can catch a trail up little to the right, and continue on through a portion of the jnepeni? first, and then across the grass to the trail Book at the Top. We get it here in just a few minutes away, next to a small saddle and continue along the path, now clear and wide to the right. After crossing two ravines, and figuring out the unmistakable silhouette of the Needle from the Pulpit, (a good place for the camera, and the rest).

From here, descend obliquely to the right (in the direction of travel) in the Vâlcelului to rose bay and to keep our eyes peeled, on the left side in the Window. They go down the path of good, then the wire through the stone. He goes out of the Window Vâlcelul to the Window, where a descent is a basic (just a couple of helpful light). At the end of the Vâlcelului to the Window, across the footpath marked on the red triangle on the Middle Ciorânga the Sea in the vicinity of the Refuge of Hope. Take a left on this trail, and we've got 5 minutes to the Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Sursa: Ilie Nedelea

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 27.06.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Lucian

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Users who climbed the route


Castor - 12.08.2019, Vara
- 12.08.2019
Alexander Edelweiss - 11.08.2019, Vara
- 11.08.2019
Cosmin Nicola - 06.07.2019
- 06.07.2019
Dorin Cristea - 29.06.2019, Vara
- 29.06.2019
Dorin Cristea - 08.11.2018, Vara
- 08.11.2018
Iuli Darie - 26.08.2018, Vara
- 26.08.2018
Andrei Vlad - 26.08.2018, Vara
- 26.08.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 25.05.2017, Vara
- 25.05.2017
Vlad Grigore - 28.06.2014
- 28.06.2014
Dorin Cristea - 08.07.2007, Vara
- 08.07.2007
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Iuli Darie

Users who wish the route to be repaired


Dorin Cristea - 08.09.2017

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Bogdan Boja - 31.08.2018

Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: The Chalet Plaiul Foii we're going on the mark of the tourist triangle of red at the Refuge of Hope, then keep going down the same mark on the Belt Ciorânga to the 3rd valley (the valley is Vâlcelul to the Window of the 2nd Vâlcelul to rose bay, and the 3rd in the Canyon of the Ciorânga the Sea). We get in the valley, and immediately on the left as you go up, we have the beginning of the trail.
Retreat route: From the point at which we come out we can catch a trail up little to the right, and continue on through a portion of the jnepeni? first, and then across the grass to the trail Book at the Top. We get it here in just a few minutes away, next to a small saddle and continue along the path, now clear and wide to the right. After crossing two ravines, and figuring out the unmistakable silhouette of the Needle from the Pulpit, (a good place for the camera, and the rest).

From here, descend obliquely to the right (in the direction of travel) in the Vâlcelului to rose bay and to keep our eyes peeled, on the left side in the Window. They go down the path of good, then the wire through the stone. He goes out of the Window Vâlcelul to the Window, where a descent is a basic (just a couple of helpful light). At the end of the Vâlcelului to the Window, across the footpath marked on the red triangle on the Middle Ciorânga the Sea in the vicinity of the Refuge of Hope. Take a left on this trail, and we've got 5 minutes to the Refuge.

Equipment


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