Canionul Ciorânga Mare (Canyon Ciorânga Great) 3A, 6- (5, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 07.04.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3A
Mandatory grade: 5
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6-
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: sabisigump.files.wordpress.com 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsChimneyFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Titi lonescu, Ion Ionescu-Dunăreanu, Elena Habermann
Date: 16-18.07.1939


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Canyon Ciorânga Large is the most imposing valley of torrent notch above my Waist Ciorânga Great. It is a tributary of the main Padinei his Mange; browse by climbers, only on the portion of the Girdle Ciorânga Great (1665 m alt.) and the Girdle Top (1980 m alt.).

From the point at which the Girdle Ciorânga High cross Canyon Ciorânga Great (1665 m alt.) we turn to the right, climbing up through the canyon to the first obstacle of the route. The vertical walls that border the valley and the tall towers spread out in depth to give the place one of the most great.

The first jumper has about 2m and we put some to the test; it can bypass on the left side. Then we climb gently for a while by debris meeting only a threshold to a boulder, on which we can approach on both sides.

Follow a chimney where we put our espadrilles for more safety. Go in the chimney close up of the grotto and use of the sockets of the leg on both sides to pick us up under the fisurica on the right where we make sure with the friend BD Camalot 0.3. Then the walls of the chimney is approaching and we are entering a ramonaj where the height of the higher of the ca?aratorului is a disadvantage. The back will be on the right wall. The output is inconvenient, we have to get up on a threshold horizontal with few sockets very small. Above we find two pitons to which we can ensure the seconds. Distance to obstacles the next is small.

Following another jumper by the 7-8m easy climbing, but with the rock a little friable. After you go through 2/3 of the helpful find a piton with a ring. Again there are cams for the insurance on top of her. The valley widens and the slope subsides. From the left to the Edge of the Bumblebee comes a brâule?.

The valley is close and in front of us appears the main obstacle, ,,high jumper Grotto”. It has about 25 meters and can be approached in two variants. Usually it goes on the right, better provided, but tougher. It departs from under the first python in a bavarian a little overhangta, then traverse a bit right to get the crack. Find a python, not too solid, then we can ensure to a corner of the rock, then a boulder the recessed well and the 2 pitons old. We get to a crack wide in which we enter with the whole body. At the exit from it and find a python silver solid, followed by a python that moves. Now you have crossed the left to get above the jumpers. Make sure the following python and get in the ?prai? up to an outlet of the leg on the opposite wall, having at hand a socket we can stick. Us up above the lip jumpers where regroup on the right side at the 3 pitons. The area is generally wet, but they can pass and artificial passages more difficult.
Care should be taken that all the assistants should be protected with loops intermediate the whole length. Otherwise, if he escapes one will swing very possible in the opposite wall with obvious consequences.

Follows a new jumper in the form of the canyon, flushed and as wet as the rest. Get on the right side where we find a piton and a rock bun secured with a anou great. Cross the place in the valley and we climb a few steps glossy. Regroup at a python nut and a friend on the left wall. Vis-a-Vis it's and a piece of string after a boulder embedded in it.

The last obstacle of the valley is a jumper washed on the center that we can address the left: we have a threshold vertical with the plugs good to the hands, then a face cazuta with a few alveoli on the left and then plugs the small and grip. If we go up on the grass in the right of the rock we're on a platform chest of drawers where we see a python that protects the crossing back into the valley. The valley divides here into two threads.

Attention, the final area consists of a scree unstable, with large boulders, and the possibilities of shelter in case the one in front of our boulders are reduced. This last passage is inclined and ends not far from the point “At the Pulpit” located on the right at the bottom Vâlcelului with Rhododendron, on the route Vâlcelului with the Window.
Information source
blog.tataru.net - http://blog.tataru.net/canionul-ciornga-3a/
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism
- Emilian Cristea, 1984
Poză 1 - http://sabisigump.files.wordpress.com
Poză 2 - LauraB https://picasaweb.google.com/106083248741016880756/CanionulCiorangaBraulDeSusPadinaLuiCalinet

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: On the Girdle Ciorânga Great, the third valley, encountered at the Refuge Hopes, and the most stately.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: On Vâlcelul with Rhododendron and Vâlcelul with the Window - Sash Ciorânga Big up to the Refuge Hopes or out in the piatra Craiului mountains, at 10-15 min from the Refuge of Sharp.

Topo

Topo

Sursa: Mugurel Ilie

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Users who climbed the route


Adi Min - 13.08.2018, Vara
- 13.08.2018
Andrei Badea - 13.08.2018, Vara
- 13.08.2018
Adrian Mihai - 30.09.2017, Vara
- 30.09.2017
Bianca Bilt - 15.08.2016, Vara
- 15.08.2016
Victor Anica - 01.08.2015, Vara
- 01.08.2015
Andrei - 06.10.2012
- 06.10.2012
Dimitrie Manole - 06.10.2012
- 06.10.2012
Mihai  - 13.08.2011, Vara
- 13.08.2011
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Iarna
Adi Min - 01.01.1900

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Chereches Cristian

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Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: On the Girdle Ciorânga Great, the third valley, encountered at the Refuge Hopes, and the most stately.
Retreat route: On Vâlcelul with Rhododendron and Vâlcelul with the Window - Sash Ciorânga Big up to the Refuge Hopes or out in the piatra Craiului mountains, at 10-15 min from the Refuge of Sharp.

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