Trandafirul Negru (The Black Rose) 3B, 6/6+ (A0)
3,00/5 (1 vote)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (11)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (1)
added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 21.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6/6+
Quickdraws: Fifteen
Type: Classic route

 Trandafirul Negru 
Accommodation: The Diana Refuge
Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Rosi Beer, Gh. Bety, Ovidiu Bobica
Date: 18.09.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - 2-m, the marking blue triangle next to the iron cross, it is the first pin. It goes up on the wall-to-wall grass and rock-oriented, very low to the right but there is a small chimneyule?. After the passing of his step it up a few feet and we meet up with some of the other little chimney that comes out of the left side. There is a piton on the right and two on the left side. We have regrouped here, but the grouping of the sketch is a little higher. On this point, it is between the two cams, and a hospital. It is up to 6/6 of the length. After the passing of his climb up vertically, a little to the right and then traverse left about 2m down into the pool. The grouping is not very convenient, especially for three people, and it is provided with a spit and a pi of the solid. The length is about 45 to 48 feet.

LC2 Is going to the left side providing an anchor out in 4-5 m from the pool, and 2 or 3 feet above it. From here you can climb a face past the plugs are good and the tufts of grass at the end of which there is a cam in the wall. In the upper part of the face of the kind of flushed, at which the upper part of the left can be seen a loop of the rope. On the plate there is a cam in the wall. The board has the 6/6+. I would have preferred to avoid the slab on the right on the near edge green roof. Right on top of the plate there is a small beetle, what is the approach you directly. The ground becomes hard and brittle, you need to test each and every outlet.
Over the surplombei is the use of a ramp, the grassy, sloping to the right, which leads to a passage down. At the exit of the beetle, and by the pere?el we don't have any of the python, and the python on the wall, there is not one in which you would like to take a fall. He climbs carefully to the pere?elul and catch up a little chimney, which leads to a low. At the exit of the chimney's and turn right walk about 5 to 7 m up in the pool. Pools, large chest of drawers. A length of about 48 to 52 yards.

LC3 - It's going vertical, a little to the left of the pool. The length is short, and it's only, like, two or three of the insurance, because it is not very difficult. It comes in the right side of the ridge a ledge of grass, a tree, to which it is, and make sure. Here, it would be a walk placed two expansion bolts for it, though it seems solid at the moment, I don't know how long you will keep the tree. Short length of only 30 feet.

LC4 Is going to a small saddle and then up on to the edge of the ridge. First, insurance is pretty high, so I have a little bit of attention. At the department we have also provided you with a anou as a little piece of the rock. The trail gets a little bit vertically, and then, a lot of backbone making it the edge length of which I don't find an answer. But it wouldn't be a need for it is almost horizontal, it's just that one has to be careful, because it's a little bit crumbly. I have grouped together the two savage over after that, I couldn't get hog rings.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/09/trandafirul-negru-piatra-craiului3b-66_11.html
Piatra Craiului Turism-alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 73-74, 162-163, 197-205, 210-220.
Pentru autorii premierei, a se vedea Dan Vasilescu, Premiere alpine, Editura Romania Pitoreasca, pag. 195
Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada (FRAE) - Nomenclatorul traseelor de alpinism si escalada 2000, anexa 37
Peretele mare al Padinii Popii, cod 10.08.3.05.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 20.6" E 25° 14' 15.3"    
Access route: In the town of Zarnesti up to the glade Curm Prapastiilor, where are located the Sanctuary of Diana, just follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.

The whole of the town of Zarnesti follow the original route to the Area of the Sheet, after which you turn left onto the road to the Hermitage of the Corner of the Cells, from where we continue on the tourist strip of blue to the sanctuary of Diana.

The cabin Area of the Sheet up the Valley of the Bears up into the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Sanctuary of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.

From the Sanctuary of Diana to the right, towards the valley of the bucegi mountains the Dust trail of the tourist triangle of the blue.
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours
Retreat route: There are two versions of the retreat, one of the Vîlcelul Passers-by to be Forced through the two boosts and the other way on a trail that leads to the marked blue line on the Brîna Clothing.

Topo

Topo

Trandafirul Negru

Pictures


Trandafirul Negru

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Diaries & links


  • 27.08.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Sorin

Trandafirul Negru

Users who climbed the route


Dorin Cristea - 19.10.2019, Vara
- 19.10.2019
Cristian Popescu - 11.09.2012, Vara
- 11.09.2012
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Dorin Cristea - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

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Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 20.6" E 25° 14' 15.3"    
Access route: In the town of Zarnesti up to the glade Curm Prapastiilor, where are located the Sanctuary of Diana, just follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.

The whole of the town of Zarnesti follow the original route to the Area of the Sheet, after which you turn left onto the road to the Hermitage of the Corner of the Cells, from where we continue on the tourist strip of blue to the sanctuary of Diana.

The cabin Area of the Sheet up the Valley of the Bears up into the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Sanctuary of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.

From the Sanctuary of Diana to the right, towards the valley of the bucegi mountains the Dust trail of the tourist triangle of the blue.
Retreat route: There are two versions of the retreat, one of the Vîlcelul Passers-by to be Forced through the two boosts and the other way on a trail that leads to the marked blue line on the Brîna Clothing.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Fifteen
Cams and nuts: Fifteen
Additional equipment: Fifteen
Trandafirul Negru

Comments