On 29.09.1973 Zsolt Török was born. Today we celebrate 61 years since Hornul Suspendat (Acul Crăpăturii) first ascent, 61 years since Traseul Genţianei (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent, 61 years since Muchia Scării (Peretele Muchiei dintre Ţimbale) first ascent, 5 years since Les Pas' Rvenus (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent

Traseul Arcadelor 5A
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (8)
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  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 15.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Silvia Murgescu 
Accommodation: 
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsCrackFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Noaghiu, Roland Welkens
Date: 15.07.1959


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The length of 1: you have to come in on the ridge of the rock (the point where the foot of the wall stands out the most on the outside). It is aimed at the tavanelul which is 30 feet higher, the grouping of which are at 4 m higher than the tip of his right ear. At the starting you don't find the hands, and the field is not easy. Appear, and the rings which indicate the direction of the. In the pool we find 2 hands.

The length of the 2: the Of the pool it goes down to 1 km and then cross the right hand, horizontally, about 5 km to the base of the crack-dihedral. On the cross there are enough nails, and, even if the sockets for the legs are missing, they can go to the artificial one. And then the follow-up straight at the top of the crack-dihedral. The nails are actually pretty good.

The length 3: It going diagonally right, over a circus out of the grass, and then a little chimney, and after that you have to cross the left, horizontally, on one side at the base of the cracks, clean it goes up up. It's coming out of the cracks, and it brings together on one platform.

The length of the of 4: on The platform, they get a small crack, which begins with a small beetle. There is a chimney, a short climbing through the ramonaj (Look at my backpack!), and then, at the end of it, climb to the left over a couple of rapids and then a ridge and then back through some side skirts out of grass. Regroup before making the right turn to the arch so that it does not rub against vocal chords. You can bring together even the two nails are removed, there is a place by the pool.

The length of the 5: climb up diagonally right to a crack the clear in the shape of the arch. Insurance is at the level of the crack. Is exceeded, then the arch on the right hand side of the above crossing is a small beetle (there is a step of this length), they climb straight up into the sky, and it brings together a wider one, that of the grass. It is best to ensure the hog rings long as you don't pull the strings out on this long winding road.

The length of the 6: climb up another 15-20 m on the ground gently, and it comes out the top.
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2013/06/2013-06-15-piatra-craiului-tr-arcadei-5a-5lc.html
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 73-74, 162-163, 197-205, 210-220.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 23.9" E 25° 14' 12.1"    
Access route: In the town of Zarnesti up to the glade Curm Prapastiilor, where are located the Sanctuary of Diana, just follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.
The whole of the town of Zarnesti follow the original route to the Area of the Sheet, after which you turn left onto the road to the Hermitage of the Corner of the Cells, from where we continue on the tourist strip of blue to the sanctuary of Diana.
The cabin Area of the Sheet up the Valley of the Bears up into the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Sanctuary of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.
From the Sanctuary of Diana to the right, towards the valley of the bucegi mountains the Dust trail of the tourist triangle of the blue.
the entrance to the Route of The, aflataîn to the right (6 to 7 m from the Front of the Nordica), marking the limit of the north-west wall North of the Sea of Diana. A ridge of rock, which change the orientation of the wall, to the north-west, is the obstacle of starting the course.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: It comes down to the oblique right a few feet up the Chimney, the Window, and there, with three boosters, we are in a tourist trail in the bucegi mountains Off.

Pictures


Sursă: Silvia Murgescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Silvia Murgescu

Users who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 28.08.2016, Vara
- 28.08.2016https://get.google.com/albumarchive/10608324874...
LauraB - 28.08.2016, Vara
- 28.08.2016https://get.google.com/albumarchive/10608324874...

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 23.9" E 25° 14' 12.1"    
Access route: In the town of Zarnesti up to the glade Curm Prapastiilor, where are located the Sanctuary of Diana, just follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.
The whole of the town of Zarnesti follow the original route to the Area of the Sheet, after which you turn left onto the road to the Hermitage of the Corner of the Cells, from where we continue on the tourist strip of blue to the sanctuary of Diana.
The cabin Area of the Sheet up the Valley of the Bears up into the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Sanctuary of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.
From the Sanctuary of Diana to the right, towards the valley of the bucegi mountains the Dust trail of the tourist triangle of the blue.
the entrance to the Route of The, aflataîn to the right (6 to 7 m from the Front of the Nordica), marking the limit of the north-west wall North of the Sea of Diana. A ridge of rock, which change the orientation of the wall, to the north-west, is the obstacle of starting the course.
Retreat route: It comes down to the oblique right a few feet up the Chimney, the Window, and there, with three boosters, we are in a tourist trail in the bucegi mountains Off.

Equipment


Sursă: Silvia Murgescu

Comments