Faţa Nordică 5B, 6b+/6c (5a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 15.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 5a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route

 Faţa Nordică 
Accommodation: 
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Miklós Nagy, Emilian Cristea
Date: 06.06.1971


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trailul easily defined at the base of the North Wall of the Tower of the Great Diana, we start the climb, ca?arîndu our way down to the base of the overhangs of the visible, is located at about 8 km from the start. By using the footrests, we're the tab directly, which is why it is an extremely enjoyable and even more rarely encountered in the us. In addition to this, the wall of the heavily fractured, however, has a rock and healthy, which allows us to move forward, sometimes by climbing libera, and without the use of footrests. Regrouping for a run at the top of the corner, detached from the wall, just like the 40's to me.
In order to use the line of the ascent of the great incline on the second.c. we are embarking on a cross oblica to the left, along a succession of rapids, and the brîne, of which the ascending line, as a whole, it is a zigzag. Any rough spots in the length of the steps from connection of the brîne, or thresholds, which are presented in the form of jumping jacks smooth and free from cracks and chips. In this section cuts right through the route of the Crack is North, a little above the point of the staging of the first one.c. The grouping of the second.c. it is made to scari?e "the department", to the point where the wall is facing to the obîr?ia the Chimney of the Festival.
The third one did.c. looks at a crack, which surplombeaza in a couple of places. This is followed by a face strongly sloping, where the submission is done using the common method, the "success". The belay station of the 40-m "on the cam" in your stairs.
The last of him.c. this is the tough one. Over the course of 40 m. as well as masoara, to meet, among others, a dihedral washing machine. On the sides you have to ramonam of about 15 m. according to the method of “Dulfer". The grand opening of the legs, the lack of outlets and the inclination of the slope, which in the end surplombeaza require us to go far in the afara, which, morally, and physically exhausting. Regrouping after the overcoming of the projection, and the top of the sill facing to the right.
The last of it.c. it follows the line of an edge that appears more and more that the shows from the beginning and in the end, how much is a beetle that dealing with them directly. Even though the trail continues, climbing up to the top of the Tower there is a basic 1 (B), which allows us to go through the insurance.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 23.9" E 25° 14' 12.1"    
Access route: 10 m to the right and below the FisuraNordica is highlighted on the wall of a beetle bigger. It falls among the top obstacles of the route Before the Nordica of the Tower of Diana
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: Across the Horn to the Window, and find the nails to return.

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Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

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GPS: N 45° 33' 23.9" E 25° 14' 12.1"    
Access route: 10 m to the right and below the FisuraNordica is highlighted on the wall of a beetle bigger. It falls among the top obstacles of the route Before the Nordica of the Tower of Diana
Retreat route: Across the Horn to the Window, and find the nails to return.

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