Today we celebrate 49 years since Faţa Nordică (Turnul Mare al Dianei) first ascent, 3 years since Făt Frumos (Faleza La Poveşti) first ascent, 3 years since Balaurul (Faleza La Poveşti) first ascent

Traseul Ciuboţica Ursului 5A, (7-, A1/A2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 14.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 7-
Aid climbing grade: A1/A2
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: The Diana Refuge
Length: 3 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Miklós Nagy, Emilian Cristea
Date: 05.07.1971


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The wall that forms the right flank of the Fire Festival, it is slightly bulged at the point where you begin climbing the first of him.c. Initially, the front is crossed by a crack it open, which does not receive the cams, and can be easily "cemented". Above it, fastened with wafers, to meet clean enough to ensure advancement. The last part is hard, and pitonata often. As a result of the full string, we regrupam in a small cave.

In the second, it.c. in order to overcome the overhanging climbing made up the ceiling of the cave, executam a “spreiz" open to the maximum. Once this obstacle is particularly prone to it, we are embarking on an ambitious directed obliquely to the right, on the line of the crack, we continued in the upper zone by means of a dihedral grass. Beyond this final obstacle, the wall, he gradually lost the inclination, the drive up to the level of the girdle, which later is basic.

The last of it.c. (iii) carry out along with a crack inclined to the oblique, to the right. The inside of the crack and the face of the wall of the gut for it to have enough power outlets to make it by climbing the "success", is particularly beautiful. In the last section, the wall of the surplombeaza. The obstacle, without your hands, get him straight through the trac?ionarea in my arms, and a detachment of the foot of the wall. After this passage, considered to be the most beautiful, we climb the ridge that connects the Tower, the Yellow of the Diana of the Tower of Diana. The spot is marked by a cairn of stones.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 73-74, 162-163, 197-201, 209-210, 216.
Nomenclatorul traseelor 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access route: The final track is located in the Tower of the Galbenal Diana, it's called the Pink Bear. The entry point for the start of the climbing is located approximately 60 m upstream of the Brain, which is where the Chimney, the Festival presents a first-goes a long way.
Access duration: 3 hours

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Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access route: The final track is located in the Tower of the Galbenal Diana, it's called the Pink Bear. The entry point for the start of the climbing is located approximately 60 m upstream of the Brain, which is where the Chimney, the Festival presents a first-goes a long way.

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