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Fisura Cenuşie 4A, 6b (5b, A0)
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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (21)
  • Video (1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad mini la data de 14.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 5b
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6b
Type: Classic route

 Intrarea in traseu. Sursa foto: Rupi (2019) 
Accommodation: 
Length: 3 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsDihedralCrackChimneyGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Norbert Hiemesch, S. Ivancenco, Ion Rusu
Date: 21.08.1957


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Turns on a series of flats with the very first insurance policy up pretty high, urcîndu-it's just up to the second piton. ATTENTION! The second anchor does NOT continue up the dihedral, with the entire line of the hands of the existing, but it is starting to cross to the right side of 10 or 12 feet. Immediately after the first stomach, which we need to cross the horizontal plane is within a department of insurance. From here it's about 5 to 7 m of the cross to the right side and the top to the first pool which is just below the fissure of the length of the latter. Initially, we give it more than 2 cams is very poor, and one beaten to death in an area of crumbly, and the other was knocked out after a small plate of what is about to be broken, and that get knocked out, it sounds a little dry. 2 km to the right of the 2 pitons, and a little bit above the other 2 cams reinforced by a rope. Here is the list, sitting there hung up in the harness.
LC2 - Start up a crack taricica, a little bit tilted to the left with plenty of more security. I would estimate that it's passage would have a degree of 7, and definitely more than the 6+. The output from this, there are 2 hands that is problematic. One of them isn't very strong, and the second is located a little further to the right, it moves in all directions. Out I wasn't able to pull it out, but I didn't even of the moral, well, you can't use it. A little more up top, I mounted a friend being scored as such by the emotion of the piston bouncing. Just a few feet above the rift, is bringing together, a little awkward for the three of us, that's why I chose to get a few yards and then I crossed the left and when he came to a pool, very comfortable and solid, reinforced with rope, and with a link for quick, on a front porch, green roof.
LC3 - Get out of the pool to the left for 3 km and then climb up a small dihedral nesigurat. I'm going to climb a little bit, I managed to secure it with one anou, after a stone embedded into the dihedral. On this step you have to catch up to the right, a ramp on the green roof. At the end of it is right on the threshold, and it comes from a pool of intermediate, but not very comfortable for 3 people.
Here, from what I've read on the net, there are two options below, and two chimneys. The one right on top of the pool, and at the end of which there is a sea here, and another one to find out a little bit more to the right.
Because the first insurance policy on the first chimney, it seemed to me to be a bit over the top, I opted for the chimney on the right. Insurance is a bit more rare, but the steps are not difficult, but the tiredness and the lack of the feel like I have pretty much ruled out any pleasure in the climb. I ended up at the bottom of the chimney, where, turning to a bunch of juniper trees and a pine tree, I gave it the 2nd clean. Here's more of a climb vertically for about 5 to 7 m, which are relatively easy, but that's because I don't have the rope we left at the 2 cams.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/09/fisura-cenusie-3-5lc-4a-7_17.html
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 73-74, 162-163, 197-201, 208-209, 216.
Nomenclatorul traseelor 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access route: In the town of Zarnesti up to the glade Curm Prapastiilor, where are located the Sanctuary of Diana, just follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.

The whole of the town of Zarnesti follow the original route to the Area of the Sheet, after which you turn left onto the road to the Hermitage of the Corner of the Cells, from where we continue on the tourist strip of blue to the Sanctuary of Diana.

The cabin Area of the Sheet up the Valley of the Bears up into the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Sanctuary of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.

From the Sanctuary of Diana to the right, towards the valley of the bucegi mountains the Dust trail of the tourist triangle of the blue.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: In the last pool there's a path, faintly outlined to the left, and then up and out the top of the tower, on a high from the low. Go down the path until Vâlcelul Passers-by Forced to where we got the cam on the right on the descent and in the 2 boosters (or 1 booster half ropes 60 km) we were back on the trail.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Cenuşie

Pictures


Intrarea in traseu. Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 28.08.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Sorin

Intrarea in traseu. Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Users who climbed the route


sabina.d - 16.09.2020, Vara
- 16.09.2020
Lucian Apostu - 30.06.2019, Vara
- 30.06.2019
Lucian Apostu - 22.06.2019, Vara
- 22.06.2019Doar primele 2lc pana pe brana din regruparea R2 (R3 clasica) A venit ploaia si m.am dat jos . Pitoane din L2 arata din ce in ce mai rau , recomand ceva mobile .
Lucian Apostu - 11.07.2015, Vara
- 11.07.2015Iesire in ultima lungime la dreapta prin traseul Gabriel ( ICIM)
Vlad Grigore - 29.06.2014
- 29.06.2014
Cristian Popescu - 17.09.2012, Vara
- 17.09.2012
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Wilhelm Martini - 15.10.1978, Vara
- 15.10.1978

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 28.08.2010

Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access route: In the town of Zarnesti up to the glade Curm Prapastiilor, where are located the Sanctuary of Diana, just follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.

The whole of the town of Zarnesti follow the original route to the Area of the Sheet, after which you turn left onto the road to the Hermitage of the Corner of the Cells, from where we continue on the tourist strip of blue to the Sanctuary of Diana.

The cabin Area of the Sheet up the Valley of the Bears up into the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Sanctuary of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.

From the Sanctuary of Diana to the right, towards the valley of the bucegi mountains the Dust trail of the tourist triangle of the blue.
Retreat route: In the last pool there's a path, faintly outlined to the left, and then up and out the top of the tower, on a high from the low. Go down the path until Vâlcelul Passers-by Forced to where we got the cam on the right on the descent and in the 2 boosters (or 1 booster half ropes 60 km) we were back on the trail.

Equipment


Intrarea in traseu. Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Comments