Today we celebrate 84 years since Creasta Mălinului (Colţul Mălinului) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 59 years since Traseul Alveolelor (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 30 years since Traseul Direct (Peretele Răcorelelor) first ascent.  

Fisura Cenuşie 4A
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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (20)
  • Video (1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 26.07.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 6-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: The Diana Refuge
Length: 3 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsDihedralCrackChimneyGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Norbert Hiemesch, S. Ivancenco, Ion Rusu
Date: 21.08.1957


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Starts on a succession of dihedral with the first insurance high enough, urcîndu only up to the second piton. ATTENTION! From the second python doesn'T continue up the dihedral, with the whole line of pitons existing above, but it starts a traverse to the right by about 10-12 km. Immediately after the first the belly that you have to cross the horizontal is a python insurance. Here are about 5-7 m from the crossed to the right and slightly up until the first pool which is right under the crack of the length of the second. The initial give over 2 pitons very bad, one beaten in an area of crumbly, and the other beaten after a small plate of what's about to break and that, wooing, sounds very dry. At 2 m to the right of these 2 pitons and a little above are other 2 pitons consolidated with a rope. Here is belay station, standing hung in the harness.
LC2 - Starts up on a crack taricica, a little inclined to the left with enough insurance. I estimate that the passage would have degree 7, anyway sure over the 6+. To exit from this there are 2 pitons problematic. One is not very solid, and the second, located more on the right, it moves in all directions. Removed I managed to take him out, but even of moral you can't really use it. A little higher I mounted a friend being scored like the excitement of the python jumpy. A few meters above the crack is located belay station, a little uncomfortable for the three of us so here I preferred to get a few yards and then I crossed the left reaches a pool very comfortable and solid, reinforced with rope and having a za fast, on a porch, green roof.
LC3 - go from the pool to the left about 3 km and then climb a small dihedral nesigurat. After climbing a little we managed to secure with a anou after a boulder embedded in the dihedral. Above this step catch to the right a ramp grassy. At the end they get a threshold and arrive at a belay station intermediate, but not too comfortable for 3 people.
Here, from what I've read on the net, there are two variants of further, respectively two chimneys. The one immediately above the pool and at the end of which there is a large juniper, and another one found out more on the right.
Because the first insurance on the first chimney it seemed to me to be a bit over the top I opted for the chimney on the right. Insurance are a little more rare, but the steps are not difficult, but fatigue and lack of feel like I have pretty much obliterated any pleasure to climb. I got into a final at the end of the chimney where, passing by some pines and a fir tree, I gave the 2 pitons. Here follows a climb vertically, about 5-7 km, relatively easy, but because I didn't have the chord I stayed at the 2 pitons.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/09/fisura-cenusie-3-5lc-4a-7_17.html
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 73-74, 162-163, 197-201, 208-209, 216.
Nomenclatorul traseelor 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access duration: 3 hours

Topo

Topo

Fisura Cenuşie

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries


  • 28.08.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Sorin

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User who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 30.06.2019, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 22.06.2019, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 11.07.2015, Vara
Andrei - 29.06.2014
Vlad Grigore - 29.06.2014
Cristian Popescu - 17.09.2012, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
Wilhelm Martini - 15.10.1978, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 28.08.2010

Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    

Equipment


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