Today we celebrate 71 years since Traversarea Peretelui Ciorânga Mare (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 77 years since Traseul Central din Peretele Piscului Rece (Peretele Piscului Rece) first ascent.  

Traseul Frontal (The Route Front) 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 15.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 4
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: The Diana Refuge
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsAid climbingTreesGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, Emilian Cristea
Date: 17.06.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Of little going on that it makes the wall at the edge of the trail marked start climbing in the first him.c. along the mountains vertically, deepened on the line of the wall. The passage initially presents a series of slabs and small taiose, recessed vertically on the approximately 25 km. The final portion, easy overhangta, overcome by a “grand ecarte" to the left, regrupându us on a platform chest of drawers, located at 35 km.

To second him.c. has 20 km. Climb starts on a face flushed, provided with two cams. In further execute a traverse low to the left. Then, following the edge slightly beveled to the tower, move up to a sluice box which intersects the line of the route. Threshold dotted with cushions of grass is the platform for the pool.

To overcome scocul grass, start the escalation of the third him.c. with a “spreiz" spectacular, after which move vertically,
along a face disposed between the two edges, until the full deployment of the 40 m of rope. Regrouping execute her on edge slightly crumbly, located on the right.

Upstream, the ridge is seen covered with jnepeni?, which accounts for our progress in the fourth.c. a impediment. To continue climbing, cross, about 15 metres to the left, by an edge stock. Without to follow the line of its climb on her faces, climbing up fully extend the 40 m of rope.

After belay station, climbing next to him.c. (fifth) no longer presents difficulties, the submission made by trailele winding of the forest of juniper trees grown up on the Tower Yellow of Diana.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport Turism, București, 1984, pag. 73-74, 162-163, 197-201, 206, 216.
Topo - Walter Kargel

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access route: From Zarnesti to poiana Curm Prapastiilor, where is located the Refuge of Diana, we follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.

All of Zarnesti follow original road to Plaiul Foii, after which turn left on the road to the Hermitage of the Corner Cells, where we keep on marking tourist blue line to the refuge of Diana.

From the chalet Plaiul Foii we climb the Valley of the Bears up in the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Refuge of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.

From the Refuge of Diana, turn to the right towards the valley of Padina Popii on tourist's mark blue triangle.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: Out in the top of the tower, in a sea of juniper trees. Go down the path until Vâlcelul Passers-by Forced and in the 2 boosters we returned to the trailhead.

There is also the option to descend the route you climbed in boosting.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Frontal

Pictures


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Diaries



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User who climbed the route


Alexander Edelweiss - 07.08.2019, Vara
Ad Rian - 12.08.2018, Vara
Andrei Badea - 12.08.2018, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 12.07.2015, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 26.12.2011, Iarna
Wilhelm Martini - 15.08.1982, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 26.6" E 25° 14' 12.8"    
Access route: From Zarnesti to poiana Curm Prapastiilor, where is located the Refuge of Diana, we follow the tourist trail marked with blue band.

All of Zarnesti follow original road to Plaiul Foii, after which turn left on the road to the Hermitage of the Corner Cells, where we keep on marking tourist blue line to the refuge of Diana.

From the chalet Plaiul Foii we climb the Valley of the Bears up in the glade Curm Prapastiilor where is the Refuge of Diana, on tourist's mark yellow triangle.

From the Refuge of Diana, turn to the right towards the valley of Padina Popii on tourist's mark blue triangle.
Retreat route: Out in the top of the tower, in a sea of juniper trees. Go down the path until Vâlcelul Passers-by Forced and in the 2 boosters we returned to the trailhead.

There is also the option to descend the route you climbed in boosting.

Equipment


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