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Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare (The edge of the Columns of the Organ, the Great) 4A, 6+ (A0)
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (7)
  • Video (2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 04.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare 
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsRidgeFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Roland Welkens, Ionel Coman
Date: 07.1959


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route follows the line of the sharp edge of the Wall of the pipe Organ the Sea. The course, conducted by the climbers with lots of experience, it is desfa?oara over to the world of rock and healthy, in part to the lack of vegetation. Rings aren't too many of them (they are placed only at the points absolutely required), leaving the remaining obstacles to be overcome, by free climbing.

Climb the the first it.c. starting from about 20 m to the left of the upper limit of the Jumpers of the under-Hollow, where the wall forms a slide with obstacle overlay as a tile on a roof. The first few hands, placed among all these obstacles, we can meet at a variety of distances, set nearly parallel to the trough of the wet-look of the Chimney Black, in the right hand. From the platform a little more pronounced, we find, at about 20 km, we can identify the left hand edge of the gently contoured out from the wall and dashed out of the room into the room with small groups of juniper trees; on the basis thereof, we do the grouping.

The first of the passages in the second.c. pass them through the rock climbing is free, but an arch deprived of the prize forces us to move forward with the help of the scari?elor that you set in the rings that exist.

Take a couple of days we pick up head on the third one for him.c. The first overcome for a time, as that has the ability to catch the opening of the chimney is almost straight up. To overcome the latter, we use the maximum of footrests, demanding, and rings, without which the submission would be extremely difficult for you. At the upper end of the chimney, considered to be the most difficult obstacle of the trail, we regroup on a small platform located to your left.

Continue climbing on the fourth one.c. make a traverse to the right, overcoming the edge of the tower, and we are regrupam again at the beginning of the crack of the final route.

Using the rings on the path, and in the fifth it.c. climb up a face with the inclination of the judgment, up to the Edge of the Padinei Closed down, where the trail ends.
Information source
roclimbing.ro - http://www.roclimbing.ro/muchia-coloanelor-din-orga-mare-2/
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Ion Coman, Am indragit muntii, 1963
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Once we cross the high jumper from beneath the Hollow (obstacle to a high of 40 m and 60 m), the valley of the arc to the right (the way up), leaving on the left scocul bottom of the Vâlcelului the Jumpers of the under-Hollow, which borders the Wall of the Padinei Closed
the Wall of the Organ to the Sea. From this point on, we identify the entrance of the two mountain trails. The first one is the Chimney of the Black man, easy on the eyes as the color of the rock that inspired the name.
At about 20 meters on the left I see a couple of cams disposed on the left side to the right, along the passage moist, which is the first obstacle of the trail Edge of the Column in the pipe Organ the Sea.
Access duration: 3 - 4 hours
Retreat route: The descent is made by following the ridge to the left (the north side of the escalada of the route) up to the mountain pass Vâlcelului the Jumpers of the under-Hollow, well-defined and easy to identify. The gap, climb down off the vâlcelul remembered it up to the top of the diving team, where there is a python ordered the special for the attachment of the cords. By means of this booster make it through to the rupture of a slope, out of reach.
After the recovery of the string continuam the valley and on the sides, reaching out without any difficulties on the basis of the route climbed. Further, the high jumper of the below Activities can be overcome by means of a booster, using for this purpose, the anchor disposed within the wall of the left side of the valley.

Topo

Topo

Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare

Pictures


Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare

Users who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 15.07.2012

Video - Constantin Gabor - 16.09.2010

Map



Access route: Once we cross the high jumper from beneath the Hollow (obstacle to a high of 40 m and 60 m), the valley of the arc to the right (the way up), leaving on the left scocul bottom of the Vâlcelului the Jumpers of the under-Hollow, which borders the Wall of the Padinei Closed
the Wall of the Organ to the Sea. From this point on, we identify the entrance of the two mountain trails. The first one is the Chimney of the Black man, easy on the eyes as the color of the rock that inspired the name.
At about 20 meters on the left I see a couple of cams disposed on the left side to the right, along the passage moist, which is the first obstacle of the trail Edge of the Column in the pipe Organ the Sea.
Retreat route: The descent is made by following the ridge to the left (the north side of the escalada of the route) up to the mountain pass Vâlcelului the Jumpers of the under-Hollow, well-defined and easy to identify. The gap, climb down off the vâlcelul remembered it up to the top of the diving team, where there is a python ordered the special for the attachment of the cords. By means of this booster make it through to the rupture of a slope, out of reach.
After the recovery of the string continuam the valley and on the sides, reaching out without any difficulties on the basis of the route climbed. Further, the high jumper of the below Activities can be overcome by means of a booster, using for this purpose, the anchor disposed within the wall of the left side of the valley.

Equipment


Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare

Comments