30 yeas ago, Carol Lehmann was leaving us.

Hornul Peretelui Central 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 23.08.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Rupi 
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsChimney

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Crăciun, David Toacșe
Date: 01.08.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route follows a series of cracks, like what is done in an assembly line, on the line of the ascent of the Wall of the Padinei, Closed, crossing, and based on certain sections of the road map jointly with the Central Route of the Session Closed, and the Edge of the all Three Savage. He ends up at the third timing of the leading Edge of the Three Savage.

The obstacle of the original of the first of it.c. it begins with a climb into the ramonaj on the vertical axis of the cracking open. The entrance to it is difficult a lot of the overhangte. Above, the crack is inclined obliquely to the right, and ends after 40 m. in front of a cave. On the length of the string is 11 hands.

In the second, it.c. get out of the hole we regrouped by the right-hand side, using the logic of the passage overhangt of the two cams of the existing route. Beyond this point, we continue the climb, crossing the line: a portion of the lightly grassy, a crack in the dihedral, a high of 15 feet, and a face to a crumbly end of a belt where there's a problem. On the length of the chord is 7 clean.

Climbing into the third for him.c. it starts out with a traverse to the left, followed a few meters of the belt, which we have grouped together. Then, by means of the pitonslor, get your face washed up, what's next, beyond that, a small portion of the route is traveled in common with the Path to the Central of the Session is Closed. Rings common use until the full roll out to 40 feet of rope. Bringing together a plan to execute a wider one, that is suspended in a full wall. On the length of the chord, there are 6 cams.

In the fourth one.c. go through the front of the south-western part of the corresponding ?ancului 2 from the Edge of the all Three Savage. Grouping do up to 35 m on the nose have anything to do 2.

In the fifth it.c. next, a descent of about 3-4 metres on the back of the ?ancurile 2, and 3, and then we start the climb to the sixth grade for him.c. Initially we follow the edge of the sloping and crumbly, the ?ancului 3 at a distance of 10 m, and then we're leaving, come to us right off the face of the north-western part of the Wall of the Padinei Closed. Without it, we can regroup, climb up here, on the line of the greatest slope, a passage of about 4-5 m beyond the back edge of the desert here, following up on the tip of the ?ancului 3, where the climb is over.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-turism, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The last track set in the Wall of the Padinei Closed, it is the Chimney of the front Wall is located at about 220 m from the Source in the Session Closed down, or at 45 m from the Edge of the all Three Savage. The platform of departure, the route it is located in an opening of a smaller size, in the shape of the vertical crack is open, challenged the daring of the filmmakers of the path.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: The withdrawal is the same as that of the Edge of the all three Savage.
On your nose have anything to do 3 to start the first rappel from a rope is already set for this purpose. Boosting you do in the left-hand side (in the direction of the hills. Simply put, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam the vâlcelul oriented in the NW). After 3 boosts (I've found the cords) of 50 m, and a little bit of desca?arare in the end, we get to the bottom of the valley we had to leave.

Pictures


Sursa foto: Rupi

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Sursa foto: Rupi

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Map



Access route: The last track set in the Wall of the Padinei Closed, it is the Chimney of the front Wall is located at about 220 m from the Source in the Session Closed down, or at 45 m from the Edge of the all Three Savage. The platform of departure, the route it is located in an opening of a smaller size, in the shape of the vertical crack is open, challenged the daring of the filmmakers of the path.
Retreat route: The withdrawal is the same as that of the Edge of the all three Savage.
On your nose have anything to do 3 to start the first rappel from a rope is already set for this purpose. Boosting you do in the left-hand side (in the direction of the hills. Simply put, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam the vâlcelul oriented in the NW). After 3 boosts (I've found the cords) of 50 m, and a little bit of desca?arare in the end, we get to the bottom of the valley we had to leave.

Equipment


Sursa foto: Rupi

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