Hornul Peretelui Central (The Chimney Wall To The Central) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsChimney

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Crăciun, David Toacșe
Date: 01.08.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route follows a succession of cracks sinuous what's up on the line of the uplift of the Wall Padinei Closed, intersecting and having the portions common pathway with the Central Route of Padina Closed and the Edge of the Three Savage. He ends up on the third time of the Edge of the Three Savage.

The obstacle initially of the first.c. start with a rock climbing ramonaj on the vertical a cracks open. Entry is difficult than the passages overhangte. Above, the crack is inclined obliquely to the right, ending after 40 m right of a cave. On this length of the chord there are 11 pitons.

In the second it.c. get out of the cave where we regrouped through the right side, using for overcoming a passage overhangt the two pitons existing on the route. Beyond this point we continue climbing, passing a row: a portion slightly grassy, a crack in the dihedral, high of 15 m, and a face crumbly which ends on a belt where we regroup. On this length of the chord are 7 pitons.

Escalate in the third.c. start with a traverse to the left, following a few feet the girdle that we've regrouped. Then, through the pitonslor, get the flushed face what's next, beyond which, on a small portion, our route has a common pathway with the Route of the Central of Padina Closed. Rings encountered use them in further until the full deployment of the 40 m of rope. Regrouping we execute on a wider one, that suspended in the full wall. On this length of the chord there are 6 cams.

In the fourth him.c. go through the front of the south-west corresponding ?ancului 2 from the Edge of the Three Savage. Regrouping after 35 km on the nose have anything to do 2.

In the fifth it.c. follows a descent of 3-4 km in the saddle of ?ancurile 2 and 3, after which we start the climb of the sixth.c. initially we follow the edge of the sloping and crumbly to ?ancului 3 on a distance of 10 km, then we leave it, deflecting us to the right on the face of the south-west of the Wall Padinei Closed. Without to regroup climb here, on the line of greatest slope, a passage of 4-5 m: beyond the back edge parasita below, following up on the tip of the ?ancului 3, where the climbing ends.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The last route set in Perctele Padinei Closed is the Chimney of the front Wall, located at about 220 m from the Source of Padina Closed or at 45 m from the Edge of the Three Savage. The departure platform on the route is located in an opening of small dimensions,
of emerging vertically a crack open, contested bold of the filmmakers of the route.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: The withdrawal is identical to that of the Edge of the three Savage.
On the nose have anything to do 3 start the first rappel from a rope already set for this purpose. The rappel we do in the left side (in the direction of our climb. More simply, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam on vâlcelul oriented NV). After 3 boosts (I found the cords) of 50 m and a little desca?arare at the end, we arrive in the valley from which I left.

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Access route: The last route set in Perctele Padinei Closed is the Chimney of the front Wall, located at about 220 m from the Source of Padina Closed or at 45 m from the Edge of the Three Savage. The departure platform on the route is located in an opening of small dimensions,
of emerging vertically a crack open, contested bold of the filmmakers of the route.
Retreat route: The withdrawal is identical to that of the Edge of the three Savage.
On the nose have anything to do 3 start the first rappel from a rope already set for this purpose. The rappel we do in the left side (in the direction of our climb. More simply, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam on vâlcelul oriented NV). After 3 boosts (I found the cords) of 50 m and a little desca?arare at the end, we arrive in the valley from which I left.

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