Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri (The edge of the Three Savage) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri 
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsRidgeFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Popescu, Gheorghe Crăciun
Date: 26-27.07.1958


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The edge of the Three Savage, detached from the Edge of the Padinei Closed, is located on the right of the valley Padinei Closed (the left as we climb). It is characterized by its shape of the buttress strong, with narrow ridge and interrupted by the more savage, the first three of which represent the line of the route described. Beyond the third time, despite the fact that the edge is more continuous, presenting difficult obstacles, the trail ends.

The first him.c. start with a passage of 12 m, which overcome using the 4 cams existing. Beyond it we cross obliquely to the left 3 m and continue climbing on a wall which, after 8 km, presents a protrusion, to overcome that we use the footrests. Over the past 12 m have you first him.c. we climb to the right, the led and the line pitonslor, along an obstacle vertical and slightly brittle. Regrouping, marked with two cams, we on a threshold of stone.

To second him.c. initially presents an obstacle climbing free tall, 5-6 m, continued with a chimney and a threshold grass not exceeding 20 m. The four cams located throughout the portions are sufficient. Regrouping a perform at the base of a tall chimney.

In the third him.c. climb through ramonaj the 15 m chimney mentioned and then continue climbing on the vertical faces, friable which does not exceed 3 m. Beyond this we cross to the left, avoiding a protrusion of the wall after which climb diagonally to the right, parallel with a crack open what ends up on the first time of the edge, where we regroup.

In the fourth him.c. we go through a distance of about 40 m by jnepenii raised between the tip ?ancuiui 1 and the base ?ancului 2.

During the fifth him.c. we climb over the course of 40 m on the line of the ridge, encountering a rock very crumbly. Using to insurance the four cams arranged in the key points, solve with ease the difficulties of the passage, regrupându us on the second time.

Follows a descent of 3-4 km in the saddle of ?ancurile 2 and 3. We start the climb of the sixth.c. In?tial follow the edge of the crumbly to ?ancului 3, a distance of 10 km. Then we leave the edge, deflecting us to the right on the face of the south-west of the Wall Padinei Closed and without regroup, climb a passage of 4-5 m. After this back on the edge of the ?ancului 3, climbing up to the top, where the climbing ends.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2012/09/2012-08-15-piatra-craiului-muchia-celor-trei-tancuri-4b-6lc.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: At 180 m distance of the Source from Padina Closed we are in the entry point of the route, held on the Edge of the Three Savage. Although on line uplift the edge presents more savage, she was called such by the authors of the premiere, because they set the route only up to the level of the third time. The edge of it is visible from a great distance and is clearly detached from the Wall of the Padinei Closed.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: On the nose have anything to do 3 start the first rappel from a rope already set for this purpose. The rappel we do in the left side (in the direction of our climb. More simply, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam on vâlcelul oriented NV). After 3 boosts (I found the cords) of 50 m and a little desca?arare at the end, we arrive in the valley from which I left.

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Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri

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Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri

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Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

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Map



Access route: At 180 m distance of the Source from Padina Closed we are in the entry point of the route, held on the Edge of the Three Savage. Although on line uplift the edge presents more savage, she was called such by the authors of the premiere, because they set the route only up to the level of the third time. The edge of it is visible from a great distance and is clearly detached from the Wall of the Padinei Closed.
Retreat route: On the nose have anything to do 3 start the first rappel from a rope already set for this purpose. The rappel we do in the left side (in the direction of our climb. More simply, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam on vâlcelul oriented NV). After 3 boosts (I found the cords) of 50 m and a little desca?arare at the end, we arrive in the valley from which I left.

Equipment


Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri

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