Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri (The edge of the all Three Savage) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.08.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Classic route

 Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri 
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsRidgeFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Popescu, Gheorghe Crăciun
Date: 26-27.07.1958


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The leading edge of the Three Savage, and detached from the Edge of the Padinei Closed, it is located on the right side of the valley Padinei of the Closed (left as you go up). It is characterized by the shape of the buttress strong, the short-sighted and disconnected from the more savage, the first three of which represent the line of the route being described. Beyond the third time, in spite of the fact that the longer it continues by presenting difficult obstacles, the trail is over.

The first one is.c. it starts out with a passage of 12 feet, it's overcome by using the 4 to clean the existing one. Beyond this we cross obliquely to the left, 3 km, and we continue our climb over a wall, 8 feet, showing a ledge, to overcome that we use the footrests. Over the past 12 m have you first him.c. we will climb up to the right, down, and out of the line of the pitonslor, over a hurdle, a vertical, and slightly brittle. The grouping, which is marked with the two hands, we're doing it on a ledge of rock.

The second one did.c. it presents an initial obstacle to the free climbing, a high of 5 to 6 m, which is continued by a shaft, and a threshold for grass not to exceed 20 feet. The four hands are during the entire portion is sufficient. Bringing together a perform at the base of a tall chimney.

In the third, it.c. climb up through the ramonaj 15 feet of the chimney is mentioned, and then we'll climb on the vertical face of the loose no more than 3 feet. Beyond this, cross over to the left, avoiding a ledge of the wall and after that climb up diagonally to the right, parallel to the crack is open, what ends up on the first time of the leading edge, where there's a problem.

In the fourth one.c. cover a distance of approximately 40 km through the jnepenii raised from the top of the ?ancuiui 1, and the base of the ?ancului 2.

Over the course of the fifth it.c. we'll climb over the course of 40 m. the line of the ridge, when I ran into a rock and very brittle. By using the insurance the most, four hands, arranged in the key points, we deal with the difficulties of the passage, regrupându on the second time.

Next, a descent of about 3-4 metres on the back of the ?ancurile 2 and 3. We start the climb to the sixth grade for him.c. Initially we follow the edge of the brittle to ?ancului 3, at a distance of 10 km. Then we leave the edge, come to us right off the face of the north-western part of the Wall of the Padinei Closed, and, without reform, we are climbing up a passage of about 4-5 feet. After that, we're back on the edge of the ?ancului 3, and led her back up to the top, where the climbing ends.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, Editura Sport-Turism, 1984, pag 190-191
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2012/09/2012-08-15-piatra-craiului-muchia-celor-trei-tancuri-4b-6lc.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: At about 180 m distance from the Source in the Session Closed, we are at the point of entrance of the trail, which took place on the Edge of the all Three Savage. Although the line of ascent of this ridge presents more of the savage, it has been referred to as such by the authors of the opening, in order that they have established the route only up to the level of the third tank. The edge of it is visible from a great distance, and it is clearly detached from the Wall of the Padinei Closed.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: On your nose have anything to do 3 to start the first rappel from a rope is already set for this purpose. Boosting you do in the left-hand side (in the direction of the hills. Simply put, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam the vâlcelul oriented in the NW). After 3 boosts (I've found the cords) of 50 m, and a little bit of desca?arare in the end, we get to the bottom of the valley we had to leave.

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Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri

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Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri

User who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 06.07.2019, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 15.08.2014, Vara

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Map



Access route: At about 180 m distance from the Source in the Session Closed, we are at the point of entrance of the trail, which took place on the Edge of the all Three Savage. Although the line of ascent of this ridge presents more of the savage, it has been referred to as such by the authors of the opening, in order that they have established the route only up to the level of the third tank. The edge of it is visible from a great distance, and it is clearly detached from the Wall of the Padinei Closed.
Retreat route: On your nose have anything to do 3 to start the first rappel from a rope is already set for this purpose. Boosting you do in the left-hand side (in the direction of the hills. Simply put, if the ridge is oriented w-E, we rapelam the vâlcelul oriented in the NW). After 3 boosts (I've found the cords) of 50 m, and a little bit of desca?arare in the end, we get to the bottom of the valley we had to leave.

Equipment


Muchia celor Trei Ţancuri

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