Lespezile Florilor de Colţ (Those Flowers in the Corner) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Length: 9 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/Nuts

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Crăciun, David Toacșe
Date: 07.08.1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first him.c. it measures 40 km. During her meeting 6 pitons. Regrouping, marked by a python for insurance, do it on a mane, green roof.

Continuing the climb on the second.c., we climb freely along the ridge above mentioned and, after 37 km, regroup under a chimney, using it for insurance only one python existing on this stretch.

In the third him.c. we climb more freely, having the right chimney under which we regrouped. On the length are the two pitons. Regrouping is done after 38 km on a wider one, that broad, marked by a spruce lonely.

Fourth him.c. it seems that inspired the name of the route. This portion is characterized by a series of faces washed, cut open by a crack on conducting which are fixed 7 pitons. In the final portion of the passage, after 35 km, we perform a traverse of 3 m to the right, through which we reach on the platform by the pool.

The passages of the fifth.c. are arranged oblique to the right, up to the level of a protrusion (block rocky out of the wall). Regrouping, very convenient, a do using for insurance, the two cams fixed.

On the sixth it.c. overcome by the right overhang under which we have regrouped and we climb up without the weight, making for the advance of the four cams existing in the points difficult. At the python on a threshold of the narrow and grassy execute the belay station.

In the seventh it.c., after a few meters of climbing along a face on which a climb at the front, change the initial direction, deflecting us obliquely by the left, led by the line pitonslor which are arranged parallel with a chimney in whose opening we enter something above. From the inside of the chimney provided with two cams of the booster, we orient ourselves towards the right, across and down at the same time a difficult obstacle, on
the length of which may identify a python.

The belay station of the seventh.c. a execute after the full deployment of the 40 m of rope.

To opt it.c., although there are a few passages overhangte, it is not difficult, the wall having the sockets enough for the obstacles to be overcome by free climbing. On length we have only 2 pitons. Regrouping after 40 m, on a threshold.

On to the new him.c., meet a wider one, that slightly upward and a face with plugs. Climbing this last stretch, which measured about 30 m, a we using for insurance only one python existing. Climbing over the Edge of the Padinei Closed.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Escalate the actual route starting from an amphitheater of the wall, situated far above the thalweg of the drain of the
Padinei Closed. At the point of entry, as reported in the underlying artery, follow the edge of the grassy between the two dells what are delving into the wall, respectively Vâlcelul Those Flowers from the Corner (left) and Vâlcelul of the Three Savage (right), to the right of a spruce lonely. From here we can penetrate into the area of the circus grass that stands out from the wall. At the upper limit of vegetation in the circus, to the left, identiticam a crack dotted line uplift with the first cams of the route.
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: For the descent, following the further Edge of the Padinei Closed to the right, towards the main ridge of the massif, we arrive after about 250 m in strunga formed at the bottom Vâlcelului Jumpers under the Activities. From this point we descend freely through the riverbed vâlcelului mentioned, up above a jumpers, where we meet the python willing particular for fixing the string.
By means of a booster able to overcome the rupture of the slope and, after the recovery of the string, we continue the descent through the valley and on the faces of its reaching by free climbing, without difficulties above the Jumpers under the Activities. This obstacle can be exceeded freely or through a booster, using for this purpose the python willing in the left wall of the valley.

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Map



Access route: Escalate the actual route starting from an amphitheater of the wall, situated far above the thalweg of the drain of the
Padinei Closed. At the point of entry, as reported in the underlying artery, follow the edge of the grassy between the two dells what are delving into the wall, respectively Vâlcelul Those Flowers from the Corner (left) and Vâlcelul of the Three Savage (right), to the right of a spruce lonely. From here we can penetrate into the area of the circus grass that stands out from the wall. At the upper limit of vegetation in the circus, to the left, identiticam a crack dotted line uplift with the first cams of the route.
Retreat route: For the descent, following the further Edge of the Padinei Closed to the right, towards the main ridge of the massif, we arrive after about 250 m in strunga formed at the bottom Vâlcelului Jumpers under the Activities. From this point we descend freely through the riverbed vâlcelului mentioned, up above a jumpers, where we meet the python willing particular for fixing the string.
By means of a booster able to overcome the rupture of the slope and, after the recovery of the string, we continue the descent through the valley and on the faces of its reaching by free climbing, without difficulties above the Jumpers under the Activities. This obstacle can be exceeded freely or through a booster, using for this purpose the python willing in the left wall of the valley.

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