Today we celebrate 86 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 2 years since Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell) (Piatra Altarului) first ascent

Traseul Surplombelor 6A, (6a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad mini la data de 22.08.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Blog Silvia Murgescu 
Length: 9 pitches
Climb duration: 6 - 7 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingTreesGrassRecommendedFantasticAbseil

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Valentin Garner, Ştefan Ciortan
Date: 11-15.08.1965


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first pitch starts from the same place as the Path of the Stream. The two countries are neighbours in a Session is Closed, building from source is now dried up. The route of the Spring goes on the crack on the left, and the Surplombelor out of the cave on the right.
Starting initially for a crack slanting to the right, because of the bypass and the ceiling above it, and it comes out on a patch of grass. From there, we took a left turn, the edge of which is formed on the top. The steps are not difficult and the trail is well-secured on the shaft. The grouping is more or less comfortable, sitting on a platform by the cliff edge.

A second length, traversing the right side of the pool, originally the on free, and then the crack starts right up, and to establish a passageway for serious pulling of hair. For someone shorter it might be needed to put you a leg up. Rings often taken the lead back from the edge, where he comes back to go to the free passage right up to the pool, hidden by a crevice in the wall. It's impossible to miss the hang is attached to a caraba pompiereasca shot.

It is a line of cams from about 5 meters to the right. Of what we do here is a reminder on the inside of the track. Quite excited for us to run about 6 metres below, on a brâni?a with grass, on which I crossed by the pool.

Third, long run is a good part of it up, pulled it from the loops, (A0) followed by the second half, including a traverseu. The passage is a cam that moves quietly in the wind, but it seems he's trac?ionari at the bottom.

Fourth long: the Top of the pool rules is a chimney more or less black, but that seems easy to deal with. The chimney is a hole in the walk the line clean, in order to cross the obliquely right to the pool.

The fifth one is the length of the degree in the 5+ and you go around to the left, the edge of which is carried out on the top. Exiting the grand place, among the juniper trees. As in the previous length of the string, the steps are easy, and come out in the open.
The route of the Surplombelor he meets up with the Route of the Fountain in the pool, on the crestuli?a, which provides an overview of the Session is Closed.

The length of the sixth turn to the right, parallel to the Path of the Source. It is seen in the grouping of a line is bled by the hands. The length of this, it has a chance to get out in the open for the head, you kind of have to go out, because it has a lot of steps required for a 6+ and an area of about 10 m which is not backed up. Hang on, another ridge is beautiful.

Next, the length (7-a), it is common with the Path of the Stream, namely, a ridge about 40 m, which leads to the other wall, surrounded by juniper trees.

We are a part of the rest is very nice of the track to choose the length of the string. A dihedral on the front end, which then goes through a small surplombi?a. Care must be taken in the placement of the feet, as the main source of the power outlets in my hands is a crack on the left.
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2012/09/2012-09-02-piatra-craiului-traseul-surplombelor-6a-6-a1-9lc.html
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2012/08/08/traseul-surplombelor-padina-inchisa/
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The valley Session is Closed, that is, a general orientation north-south, looks at some talveg, covered by vegetation; higher up, it goes away, because by taking it grows, along which we move, as we like to all entry points on the routes set out in the Wall of the Padinei Closed. At the bottom of the grohotisului turn to the left and after 40 metres we get to a shelter improvised from blocks of stone at the base of the great wall, which is surplombeaza. 20 m away from this point, it is located in a small cave, the water of the spring called the Spring Padinei Closed. On top of it and right out of the cave, along with a crack right against the face of the overhangta of the wall, are disposed in the first few hands of the now here's your route to the Spring. 10 m to the right of it do we have the Surplombelor.
Access duration: 2 1/2 hours
Retreat route: The brânele in the back of the wall, which went extremely quickly in the Session ?indileriei. The mark of the red cross brought us out of the padina, only to cross paths soon with the marking of the blue line from the Sanctuary of Diana - Corner of the Cells.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Surplombelor

Pictures


Sursa foto: Blog Silvia Murgescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursa foto: Blog Silvia Murgescu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 02.09.2012

Map



Access route: The valley Session is Closed, that is, a general orientation north-south, looks at some talveg, covered by vegetation; higher up, it goes away, because by taking it grows, along which we move, as we like to all entry points on the routes set out in the Wall of the Padinei Closed. At the bottom of the grohotisului turn to the left and after 40 metres we get to a shelter improvised from blocks of stone at the base of the great wall, which is surplombeaza. 20 m away from this point, it is located in a small cave, the water of the spring called the Spring Padinei Closed. On top of it and right out of the cave, along with a crack right against the face of the overhangta of the wall, are disposed in the first few hands of the now here's your route to the Spring. 10 m to the right of it do we have the Surplombelor.
Retreat route: The brânele in the back of the wall, which went extremely quickly in the Session ?indileriei. The mark of the red cross brought us out of the padina, only to cross paths soon with the marking of the blue line from the Sanctuary of Diana - Corner of the Cells.

Equipment


Sursa foto: Blog Silvia Murgescu

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