Traseul Surplombelor (The Route Surplombelor) 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Traseul Surplombelor 
Length: 9 pitches
Climb duration: 6 - 7 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsAid climbingRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Valentin Garner, Ştefan Ciortan
Date: 11-15.08.1965


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route Surplombelor is a route very complex. It is very diverse and never lets you get bored: passages uninsured, chimneys, cracks, dihedrals, crested, vertical face and face down, went to the artificial with A0 or A1, the booster inside the route.

The first length starts from the same place with the Route of the Stream. The two trails are neighboring in Padina Closed, starting in the spring now dried up. The route Spring leaves on the crack on the left, and Surplombelor comes out of the cave on the right.
We start initially on a fissure right oblique, to bypass the ceiling above and out on a patch of grass. From there, we took a left turn, on the edge of which is formed above. The steps are not heavy and the route is well secured on this portion. Regrouping is as chest of drawers, placed on a platform of rock.

The second length traversing right from the pool, original to free for then crack to start directly in the top and impose a passage really pulled at the curls. For someone shorter it might be already need to put the stirrup. Rings often drive again on the edge, where it returns to the timetable to free and crossing much right up to a pool hidden by an indentation in the wall. It is impossible to miss the belay station, has an attached caraba pompiereasca rusty.

A line of pitons from about 5 m to the right. Here we do a booster inside the route. The rappel led us approximately 6 m below, on a brâni?a with the grass on which I crossed by the pool.

The third length starts a good part in the top, pulled curls (A0), followed by the second half, which includes a traverseu. In the crossing is a python that moves quietly in the wind, but it seems that keep trac?ionari down.

The fourth length: Above the pool sits a chimney more or less black, but that seems easily addressed. The chimney is followed by a crack that goes the line of pitons, to cross obliquely the right to regroup.

The fifth length has degree 5+ and bypasses on the left edge which is carried out above. Exit grand takes place among the juniper trees. As in the previous length of rope, the steps are easy and out in the open.
The route Surplombelor meets with the Route Fountain in the pool, on the crestuli?a which provides an overview by Padina Closed.

The length of the sixth turn to the right, parallel with the Route Source. It is seen from the pool a line airy of the pitons. This length has
chance to get out to free and for the head you kind of have to go out, because it has many steps imposed by the 6+ and an area of about 10 m uninsured. Regrouping, on another ridge beautiful.

The next length (7) is shared with the Route of the Stream, namely a ridge of about 40 m, which leads to another wall, surrounded by juniper trees.

We have part of another passage very beautiful of route in the eighth length of the chord. A dihedral on the face of the fallen, which then crosses a small surplombi?a. It is necessary to attention to the placement of the feet, because the main source of plugs to the hands is the crack on the left.
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2012/09/2012-09-02-piatra-craiului-traseul-surplombelor-6a-6-a1-9lc.html
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2012/08/08/traseul-surplombelor-padina-inchisa/
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The valley of Padina Closed, which has a general orientation north-south, initially presents a talveg covered with vegetation; higher up, it disappears, its place by taking it grows, along which we move, approaching such points of entry on the established routes in the Wall Padinei Closed. At the lower limit of the grohotisului we stray to the left and after 40 km we reach in the right of a shelter improvised from blocks of stone right at the base of the great wall which surplombeaza. At 20 m from this point is located in a small grotto water fountain called the Fountain Padinei Closed. Above him and even in the cave, along a cracks well drawn on the front of the overhangta of the wall, are arranged the first cams on the here's your route to the Spring. 10 m to the right of that, we have the Route Surplombelor.
Access duration: 2 1/2 hours
Retreat route: On brânele from behind the wall, which took us very quickly in Padina ?indileriei. The marking of the red cross brought us out of padina, only to cross paths soon with the marking of the blue line of the Refuge Diana - Corner of the Cells.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Surplombelor

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Traseul Surplombelor

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Traseul Surplombelor

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Video - Silvia Murgescu - 02.09.2012

Map



Access route: The valley of Padina Closed, which has a general orientation north-south, initially presents a talveg covered with vegetation; higher up, it disappears, its place by taking it grows, along which we move, approaching such points of entry on the established routes in the Wall Padinei Closed. At the lower limit of the grohotisului we stray to the left and after 40 km we reach in the right of a shelter improvised from blocks of stone right at the base of the great wall which surplombeaza. At 20 m from this point is located in a small grotto water fountain called the Fountain Padinei Closed. Above him and even in the cave, along a cracks well drawn on the front of the overhangta of the wall, are arranged the first cams on the here's your route to the Spring. 10 m to the right of that, we have the Route Surplombelor.
Retreat route: On brânele from behind the wall, which took us very quickly in Padina ?indileriei. The marking of the red cross brought us out of padina, only to cross paths soon with the marking of the blue line of the Refuge Diana - Corner of the Cells.

Equipment


Traseul Surplombelor

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