Today we celebrate 84 years since Creasta Mălinului (Colţul Mălinului) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 59 years since Traseul Alveolelor (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 30 years since Traseul Direct (Peretele Răcorelelor) first ascent.  

Traseul Izvorului (Route Source) 5B
0.00/5 (0 votes)




1750 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (2)
  • Diaries/Climbs (5)
  • Videos
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 22.08.2015

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

 Traseul Izvorului 
Length: 9 pitches
Climb duration: 6 - 7 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului5 star routePitonsCams/NutsChimneyFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emil Fomino, Valentin Garner
Date: 18-20.07.1957


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The grotto where the Source Padinei Closed, lies on the right of the valley, something above an improvised shelter at the base of the wall in the mountaineers this morning for the first time several routes in the region. The route of the Source, the name inspired by the source mentioned above, starts at the grotto that it offers.

First.c. hold along the wall overhangt, cleft lip and palate in the ravine is narrow and long-about 40 m. To overcome this part, we use often scari?ele and pay special attention to the chord maneuvers to avoid rubbing them via carabiniere. We're belay station at the top of the move.

To be the second.c. which is two pipes connected in a chain, less rigid, but the portions are quite delicate. At the end of the second chimney we belay station.

Even after leaving on the third.c. meet rocky block, slightly unstable, crashed on the line of pipe where you want escaladam in the future. Overcome with great caution this passage, we continue the ascent to the chimney, and then on the threshold înierbat, to the point of belay station marked pitons for insurance. The wall was over-kneaded, begins to change its appearance.

Fourth.c. it is moist and very crumbly, which we ca?aram using pitonsle existing on the route; soon to take a jump deep as vâlcel in which we are moving forward, regrupându-we're about in the middle.

Continuing the ascent to the fifth.c., we follow the time line scocului said above, until then, found an opportunity to leave, crossing obliquely to the right, to the platform belay station.

Pretty face slope is the passage of the sixth.c. It ends in an open area, the hot Zone Colors the Angle, where they meet, coming on his right, the Route line Surplombelor, which was implemented neobositul climber garner Valentine.

His seventh.c. has, for a short distance, the path, the total Route Surplombelor. Then breaks up, line pitonslor led-we
to the left of the small stone skates that end up on top of the tower welcoming, allowing us a convenient rearrangement.

The edge high above us is a piece to it.c. Turn her, finally, to take on the turn where we belay station.

The last of it.c. (new), as the crown of effort, initially, to obey my last exam ca?aratura gentle on the face without cracks. After that, the area where there are still several pitons, places are starting to calm down, one on top of the dotted trees on the Edge Padinei Closed.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Valia Padina Closed, which has a General orientation South-North, is talveg originally covered with vegetation; something higher, it disappears, its place taking it grohoti?urile, during which we are moving forward, coming closer to us, thus, from the point of entry on tracks installed on the Wall Padinei Closed. From the lower limit grohoti?ului we veer to the left and after 40 km we are near the shelter he built of stone blocks right at the base of the great wall that surplombeaza. 20 m from this point is in a small grotto, the water of the spring called the Source Padinei Closed. Over him and even in the grotto, during the crack well the contours of the face overhangta wall, ready for the first pitons TraseuI Source. 10 m to the right from us Route Surplombelor.
Access duration: 2 1/2 hours
Retreat route: On brânele from behind the wall, which took us very quickly, Padina ?indileriei. The marking of the red cross brought us out padina only be crossed in the near future with marking blue stripe Asylum Diana - Angle Chiliilor.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Izvorului

Pictures


Traseul Izvorului

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Traseul Izvorului

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: Valia Padina Closed, which has a General orientation South-North, is talveg originally covered with vegetation; something higher, it disappears, its place taking it grohoti?urile, during which we are moving forward, coming closer to us, thus, from the point of entry on tracks installed on the Wall Padinei Closed. From the lower limit grohoti?ului we veer to the left and after 40 km we are near the shelter he built of stone blocks right at the base of the great wall that surplombeaza. 20 m from this point is in a small grotto, the water of the spring called the Source Padinei Closed. Over him and even in the grotto, during the crack well the contours of the face overhangta wall, ready for the first pitons TraseuI Source. 10 m to the right from us Route Surplombelor.
Retreat route: On brânele from behind the wall, which took us very quickly, Padina ?indileriei. The marking of the red cross brought us out padina only be crossed in the near future with marking blue stripe Asylum Diana - Angle Chiliilor.

Equipment


Traseul Izvorului

Comments