Today we celebrate 80 years since Canionul Ciorânga Mare (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent.  

Acul Crăpăturii (Traseul clasic) (Needle Crack (the classic Route)) 3A
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (6)
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 08.03.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3A
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Mihai Cernat 
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsRidgeCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Titi Ionescu, Franz Bauschke
Date: 25.07.1939


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

As it was normal, the Needle has drawn the attention of the mountaineers still many years ago, and his conquest was at the time a performance by big bang.
The obstacles are on one side slightly grassy, which lies to the right of the fissure that lead into the mountain pass of the Needle.

Prinia him.c. aims as part of the final a spruce lone rose on the face of the green roof, at about 20 m above the ?ipot river Crack, spring water caught in a cauc, right at the edge of the footpath.

To second him.c. we cross obliquely (to the left) a wider one, that oriented to the line of the fissure open, what is slicing the wall up in the mountain pass of the Needle Crack.

After belay station we start the climb to the third him.c. in along the crack which presents intermittently a few obstacles easy overhangte, for the overcoming of which use rings on the route, taking care as before to use to control them.

In the fourth him.c., which is very short, the advance of a do more by ramonaj. The most difficult of the route is an obstacle overhangt formed by the great stone fixed on the line of the fissure. Regrouping a execute in the mountain pass of the Needle.

The last obstacles encountered in the course of the fifth him.c. are strung on the edge of the final, along which we reach the tip of the Needle.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Mihai Cernat - http://www.carpati.org/jurnal/acul_crapaturii/2136/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 27.7" E 25° 15' 37.4"    
Access route: Climbing the route can be undertaken with departure from the chalet Curmatura, situated on the opposite slope (south) of the Rock massif Small; the distance from it to the base of the route is about 45 minutes.

The entrance on the trail to the tip of the needle, is situated at about 50 m upstream of the previous route, kind of in the right ?ipot river Crack, spring water trapped sometimes in cauc (1530 m alt.).
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours
Retreat route: The descent from the peak we execute through three boosts, on the face of the corresponding route climbed.

Pictures


Sursă: Mihai Cernat

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Mihai Cernat

User who climbed the route


Wilhelm Martini - 04.10.1987, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Ad Rian - 01.01.1900, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 27.7" E 25° 15' 37.4"    
Access route: Climbing the route can be undertaken with departure from the chalet Curmatura, situated on the opposite slope (south) of the Rock massif Small; the distance from it to the base of the route is about 45 minutes.

The entrance on the trail to the tip of the needle, is situated at about 50 m upstream of the previous route, kind of in the right ?ipot river Crack, spring water trapped sometimes in cauc (1530 m alt.).
Retreat route: The descent from the peak we execute through three boosts, on the face of the corresponding route climbed.

Equipment


Sursă: Mihai Cernat

Comments