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Acul de Sus al Crăpăturii (Traseul Hencz) (The needle from the Top of the Crack (the Route Hencz)) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 10.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 25.01.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Technical rock climbing

 alt 
Length: 2 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsGrassNot recommended

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Hencz
Date: 22.09.1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route of the Needle from the Top of the Crack is located at the north-east Wall of the Needle Crack. He has a sinuous line and pervades many areas with grass, what makes him to lose value. In wet weather, the cushions of grass and brânele, commonly encountered, presents great difficulties to the advance. Route name comes from the Needle Top, the time stone the most high, located above the Needle the Crack and behind it. Synonym: Route Hencz. The route is pitonat and has 6 lengths of rope.
Information source
Piatra Craiului Turism-Alpinism - Emilian Cristea, 1984
Nomenclatorul traseelor - autori Edgar Gletzer, Gheorghe Negustoru

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 27.7" E 25° 15' 37.4"    
Access route: Access is from the Valley of the Crack.
From the tree markings deviate to the left, climbing further through the forest, on the path marked with yellow tape. When I travelled about 900 km, counted from the entrance in the forest at 1160 m alt., the valley narrows sharply, being close between the walls tall. From this place, the path changes its appearance: the boulders appear, among which the forward stagger, the walls are divided by small caves here and there we meet the fallen trees that sometimes block the road. In this area, but anything above that, at a distance of 100 m, we identify on the right side (the left as we climb) a wall not too tall, whose face, completely flushed, is crossed by a crack. Her line, slightly contoured, form the route of the Crack Jderului.

Follow an uphill exhausting through the detritus of the valley. On the right bank are delving into the wall troughs deep or grote suspended. At the foot of a scree petty (1 440 m alt.), the trail is closer to the left wall of the valley, which this place presents an obstacle ridden and slightly grassy, on the diagonal of which the first cams of the Route Lupas.

Beyond the language of the debris referred to, follows a space overgrown with vegetation. On the right of the valley we distinguish two gullies deepened into the wall. The upstream, marked by a big cave, delimits by the north Peretelc Needle Crack.
In the right viroagei, at a distance of 20 m upstream in front of the Wall of the Needle of the Crevasse, which form still the right bank of the valley of the Crack, we find the first cams of the Route of the Needle from the Top of the Crapaturii - Route Hencz (1 460 m alt.).
Access duration: 3 1/2 hours

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Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 27.7" E 25° 15' 37.4"    
Access route: Access is from the Valley of the Crack.
From the tree markings deviate to the left, climbing further through the forest, on the path marked with yellow tape. When I travelled about 900 km, counted from the entrance in the forest at 1160 m alt., the valley narrows sharply, being close between the walls tall. From this place, the path changes its appearance: the boulders appear, among which the forward stagger, the walls are divided by small caves here and there we meet the fallen trees that sometimes block the road. In this area, but anything above that, at a distance of 100 m, we identify on the right side (the left as we climb) a wall not too tall, whose face, completely flushed, is crossed by a crack. Her line, slightly contoured, form the route of the Crack Jderului.

Follow an uphill exhausting through the detritus of the valley. On the right bank are delving into the wall troughs deep or grote suspended. At the foot of a scree petty (1 440 m alt.), the trail is closer to the left wall of the valley, which this place presents an obstacle ridden and slightly grassy, on the diagonal of which the first cams of the Route Lupas.

Beyond the language of the debris referred to, follows a space overgrown with vegetation. On the right of the valley we distinguish two gullies deepened into the wall. The upstream, marked by a big cave, delimits by the north Peretelc Needle Crack.
In the right viroagei, at a distance of 20 m upstream in front of the Wall of the Needle of the Crevasse, which form still the right bank of the valley of the Crack, we find the first cams of the Route of the Needle from the Top of the Crapaturii - Route Hencz (1 460 m alt.).

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