Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile) (The tower of Goliath (Santa with Sheep)) 4B, 6+ (5+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 08.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 02.05.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile) 
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Roland Welkens
Date: 29.10.1967
First solo ascent: Andrei Vârlan
Date: 1975


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route of the climbing of the Tower of Goliath was opened through 1967 by Ion Coman and Rolland Welkens. Also, they say that this would be the first route in Romania which were mounted expansion bolts.
"The realization of the route involved a wide range of technical means: the pitons with the expansion, pipes, wooden wedges, bongs." - Andrei Varlan

LC 1 - Leave on a plate a little flushed, but that, with a little bit of attention, and spot a couple of plugs good leg. A few yards from the base find and a first python in which we provide. From here continue up on the plate having on the right kind of fisuro-dihedral. At about 2 m above the first nail and on the left side is the second insurance then all the other nails are on your right. Immediately after the second who find a rock that you go around the left reaching under another large boulder recessed and a little overhangt with a piton at the base. Here are two variants:
First, something more difficult, go around the big boulder overhangt the left reaching after 2 m above the rock where he and belay station the two expansion bolts.
The second and the easiest is that, under the boulder overhangt to turn right through a small tunnel, and after about 2 km it goes up vertically about 2 m. leads into the pool.

LC 2 - They climb vertically through a chimney narrow, carefully. Preferable to climb in ?prai? a little more outside of the chimney because if you get in, the backpack is a little block between the walls of the chimney îngreunînd advance. After we pass a boulder on the middle of the chimney, we observe above another boulder that you go around to the right. Above him the route takes to the left upward on the two thresholds of the grass. Above the second threshold, hidden by the grasses, is a python insurance. From here, climb up two 5-6 m up to belay station under a huge ceiling and in the immediate vicinity of a cave what is a helmet to the right.

LC 3 - departs upward the left until under the ceiling where it provides then continue left under the ceiling, on its completion urcîndu up and down in a sort of canyon, lat about 1.5 m formed by two very high walls. At the entrance to the canyon, on the right wall, is mounted a spit and then at the other end of the canyon is a spit manufactured, on the wall on the left, the spit that can be used at the booster.

LC 4 - On the middle of the canyon, on the left side, there is a crack inclined to the right. Get up on this providing in the upper part of the crack to a piton hard enough by the insured for is set in a very narrow space. At the exit from the crack gets near the wall, on the doorsteps of grass, about 10-15m up to a belay station equipped with a spit and two nails.

LC 5 - go to the left right on top of the pool. Although they say that step of the route would be on this length, but the above, to me it seemed that the step would be even leaving the pool. This step would be somewhere in a 6+/7- to free.
From here you can climb about 15 km, following the line pitonslor and spiturilor, having on the right a wall arcade. It reaches a beetle crossed by a crack wide what is passed to free. Step is a maximum of 6. After passing surplombei climb a few stone steps and the grass a little brittle in places, and leads it on a plate tilted on which is located a spit that is belay station.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/09/turnul-lui-goliat-5lc-4b-4-a1_20.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 31' 06.7" E 25° 55' 01.7"    
Access route: It departs on the bookmark . Get past the cell tower and then catch the Peak Agriculture which go up in the Saddle ?igailor where you leave the bookmark mentioned above and continue to the left on the .
In the right of the imposing tower, called "old man with sheep", we leave the trail climbing steeply to its base.
Retreat route: There are two options for withdrawal:
- By two boosts, the first up in the canyon after the LC3, and from there another booster to the bottom of the spitul manufactured.
Another option is to climb up to the top of the tower where it descends into a bottleneck very narrow, and there is desca?ara to the right a chimney quite inclined then follows to the left a ridge of grassy on that must go very carefully till it reaches a small saddle.

Topo

Topo

Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile)

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Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile)

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Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile)

Users who climbed the route


Adrian Mihai - 17.09.2017, Vara
- 17.09.2017
Cristian Popescu - 20.09.2012, Vara
- 20.09.2012

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 31' 06.7" E 25° 55' 01.7"    
Access route: It departs on the bookmark . Get past the cell tower and then catch the Peak Agriculture which go up in the Saddle ?igailor where you leave the bookmark mentioned above and continue to the left on the .
In the right of the imposing tower, called "old man with sheep", we leave the trail climbing steeply to its base.
Retreat route: There are two options for withdrawal:
- By two boosts, the first up in the canyon after the LC3, and from there another booster to the bottom of the spitul manufactured.
Another option is to climb up to the top of the tower where it descends into a bottleneck very narrow, and there is desca?ara to the right a chimney quite inclined then follows to the left a ridge of grassy on that must go very carefully till it reaches a small saddle.

Equipment


Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile)

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