14 yeas ago, Octavian Brătilă (Bulinel) was leaving us. Today we celebrate 54 years since Hermann Buhl (Ţancul Mic) first ascent, 60 years since Sângele Voinicului (Valea Ciorânguţa) first ascent

Fisura Galbenă 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 27.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 20.11.2017

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4A
Type: Classic route

 Fisura Galbenă 
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


PitonsQuestionable fixed protectionChimneyGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Lubenescu, Walter Kargel
Date: 15.11.1953

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

climb a chimney slightly tilted to the left, after which we'll regroup soon on a broad platform.
Here efectuarn a traverse to the right (2nd L. C.) over a threshold covered with vegetation.
Getting a second chimney (a 3-to L. C.), meet after approx.12 m a beetle whose climbing requires a very careful handling of the string. Further, the route follows a crack with the rock crumbly, approx. 25 m in height, ending in a cave, where we regroup.
The following passage (4th L. C.), of approx. 20 km, constitutes the key point of the course. After climbing a overhangs to the string dual, we enter a third chimney, characterized by a rock completely devoid of sockets and cracks.
For the passage of this obstacoI have been used in the course of the first escalade, 6 tendoare (tubular devices what is fixed by the expansion Iaterala in the walls of cracks and which can be used as steps, at the points where the fixing pitonslor and use scari?elor is hard).
After belay station we follow to the left a belt of juniper trees, leads us, after a very short distance, on the platform at the end of the second rappel from the Vf. Drop. We add that from the point of crossing the Crack Yellow may be continued on a path devoid of difficulties up to the ridge, near the Chimney with Zade, where we can climb in the Vf. Drop. [ (!) Chimney with Zade no longer exists.]
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed. a 2-a - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Radu Titeica, Niculae Baticu - Pe crestele Carpatilor, Editura Sport Turism, 1984
Sursa foto: Rupi
Foto la rezolutie mai mare - Album Diana Diaconescu

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 16.6" E 25° 30' 09.7"    



Fisura Galbenă


Fisura Galbenă

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Fisura Galbenă

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GPS: N 45° 25' 16.6" E 25° 30' 09.7"    


Fisura Galbenă