Today we celebrate 84 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent

Muchia Mare (The Edge Of The Great) 4B, 7-/7
5,00/5 (1 vote)




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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (9)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (1)
added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 08.02.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 7-
Rotpunkt grade: 7-/7
Type: Classic route

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Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsCams/NutsSlabVerticalRidgeFantasticPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: I. Silea, I. Cokh
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

For the passage of the safe route is recommended to have a set of nuts, a few frienduri, hammer and 2-3 pitons.

LC 1: Go vâlcelului based on the engine easily, with something of boulders poorly he did it'. He goes out in the area of payment where bundle.

LC 2: Go up. A few meters we enter in one pass, easily overhangnt, which, passing through the left. Some pitons moving, but the passage is good, pitonat. He goes up to the cloth and to cross short to the right, while on the threshold stone where belay station 2 pitons and coconut.

LC 3: Escaladam passages, light up, he goes to the horizontal, with ?ancuri, before belay station with cordeline (with helm we are back down in vâlcel). He goes ?anc with cracks healthy and includes some good ?ancuri, left, in the South. Here the steering wheel with 2 half ropes 50 m (or 2 rapeluri with rope 50 m, provided that we have with python, backups, and a hammer) you can go down to vâlcel.

4 LC: the length of the route. Starts slanting to the left on the front provided some pitons weak (all moves), to the crack, which is based on python, is very bad. The plate from cracking moves, so you have trac?ionata with caution, passing silently swiping it through a right click on a small tube (class 7). After we come out of the cracks continue on the ridge to the right, after a small desca?arare to Python was beaten to the left side. Here rises another ?anc, then desca?ara 4-5 m in the other side of the ridge, in an area being described.

LC 5: Start on the easy section, horizontal, up to the base of the tower, where several pitons for withdrawal. It rises further, to a person trapped under a small overhang that it passes through the right, then through the left. To get in the top jandarmului, where, in desca?arare easy, he goes down to get her to capitulate of the Finger, based on the last length, desprinzându here is a piece of the great wall.

Luke 6: Landslide tore, and the first pitons activities of the next length. After a few meters we came to a coconut little rusty, jamming into cracks that can't keep falling. - Piton-we find, 3 m, further to the right, desca?ara, while a thin plate supported by the walls. Sure, next Python, then continue b = 5 m pipe narrow, ramonaj, out on the ridge among the boulders, regrupând on one of them.
Information source
Text - Cătălin Crețu - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/2011080106RetezatCuIoanaOctavianViorica
Topo -  Nomenclator trasee alpine, 1988
http://www.retezatclimbing.ro/trasee/peleaga/muchia-mare.php

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 22' 04.5" E 22° 53' 32.5"    
Access route: On the lake Enjoy tab go to the middle of the blue tape until Curmatura Bucurei. There he is on the crest that will lead Peleaga. We go down to the second vâlcel (as we come from Curmatura Bucurei) as soon as we Canines Pelegii, even in the place where the trail starts to climb resistant to the Peleaga Peak. Though the debris, a second vâlcel is more accessible than the first.
Retreat route: He returned to the tourist path, and he goes to Curmatura Bucurei - lake, to enjoy, to be at the bookmark on Top of Peleaga, and then we go down to the lake to Enjoy.

Topo

Topo

Muchia Mare

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



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Users who climbed the route


Razvan Hotea - 03.08.2017, Vara
- 03.08.2017
Razvan Hotea - 11.08.2014, Vara
- 11.08.2014
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Sergiu Jiduc - 31.07.2011

Map



GPS: N 45° 22' 04.5" E 22° 53' 32.5"    
Access route: On the lake Enjoy tab go to the middle of the blue tape until Curmatura Bucurei. There he is on the crest that will lead Peleaga. We go down to the second vâlcel (as we come from Curmatura Bucurei) as soon as we Canines Pelegii, even in the place where the trail starts to climb resistant to the Peleaga Peak. Though the debris, a second vâlcel is more accessible than the first.
Retreat route: He returned to the tourist path, and he goes to Curmatura Bucurei - lake, to enjoy, to be at the bookmark on Top of Peleaga, and then we go down to the lake to Enjoy.

Equipment


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