Today we celebrate 3 years since Zmeul (Faleza La Poveşti) first ascent

Muchia Mare 4B, 7-/7
5,00/5 (1 vote)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (9)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (1)
added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 28.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 7-
Rotpunkt grade: 7-/7
Type: Classic route

 Muchia Mare 
Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsCams/NutsSlabVerticalRidgeFantasticPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ion Silca, I. Cokh
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

To travel in the safety of the route, it is recommended that you have a good set of nuts, a couple of frienduri, a hammer, and 2 to 3 hands.

LK 1: Go to the base of the vâlcelului on a chimney-piece, easy with some rocks of weak binding. It comes in a flat area, where they regroup.

LK 2: Go to top. A few metres into a passage quickly overhangnt on the surpass to the left. Some of the hands moving, but the passage is a good pitonat. It goes against the fallen, and to cross short to the right, up on a ledge of the rock where the re-2 cams and a nut.

LC 3: the Scale of the passages for light at the top, it'll be out in a horizontal zone, with its savage, before belay station with the cords (with a booster so we're back down in the valley). It is just a time out with a cracking sound and they are belay station in some of savage's best, on the left, on the south side. With a booster, with a 2-semicorzi of the 50 (or 2 boosts, with a string of 50, provided they have a pin to spare, and a hammer), you can go down into the valley.

LK 4: this Is the length of the step in the route. It turns left oblique on one side, secured it with a couple of clean soft (all the moves), up to a fissure, which is based on the python is very weak. The board of the cracking move, so it must be trac?ionata with caution, the passage passing through the right-hand on the tiny plugs (grade 7). Once you get out of the rift, we continue over a ridge to the right, it is a little desca?arare to a pin knocked in the left-hand side. From here it climbs to another time, and then desca?ara of 4-5 m on the other side of the ridge, and the area of the subject.

LK 5: Turn over a portion of the light is horizontal, at the base of the tower, where there are a couple of hands to pull out. Is it just on one side down by the bottom of a beetle, we move to the right, and after that you have to cross to the left. It's up to the constable, where the desca?arare light, it goes down into the mountain pass of his Finger, at the base of the final length of the up here after detaching it, a lot of it on the wall.

LK 6: the Collapse of the snatch and clean and jerk the first few hands of the next length. After a few metres we come to a small walnut, rusty, jammed in a crack, why can't it keep falling out. The first anchor you come up with the 3m, we continue to the right, it is desca?ara up on a thin plank against the wall. Ensure the next pin, then we get into the top 5 on a funnel, narrow at the ramonaj out on the ridge among the rocks, pooling in one of them.
Information source
Text - Cătălin Crețu - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/2011080106RetezatCuIoanaOctavianViorica
Topo -  Nomenclator trasee alpine, 1988
http://www.retezatclimbing.ro/trasee/peleaga/muchia-mare.php

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 22' 04.5" E 22° 53' 32.5"    
Access route: From the lake to Enjoy it is to go on the tour with blue band, until Curmatura Bucurei. From there, they ride on the crest of what's going on the Cross. Go down the second valley (as we were coming from Curmatura Bucurei) as soon as you get that Pelegii, on the very spot where the trail begins to climb up the backed to the Top of the Cross. Although, with a lot of debris, a second valley is less accessible than the first one.
Retreat route: It lies in the tourist trail, and it goes either to the Curmatura Bucurei the Enjoyment, or the mark up on the Tip of the Cross, and then go down to the lake to Enjoy.

Topo

Topo

Muchia Mare

Pictures


Muchia Mare

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Muchia Mare

Users who climbed the route


Razvan Hotea - 03.08.2017, Vara
- 03.08.2017
Razvan Hotea - 11.08.2014, Vara
- 11.08.2014
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Sergiu Jiduc - 31.07.2011

Map



GPS: N 45° 22' 04.5" E 22° 53' 32.5"    
Access route: From the lake to Enjoy it is to go on the tour with blue band, until Curmatura Bucurei. From there, they ride on the crest of what's going on the Cross. Go down the second valley (as we were coming from Curmatura Bucurei) as soon as you get that Pelegii, on the very spot where the trail begins to climb up the backed to the Top of the Cross. Although, with a lot of debris, a second valley is less accessible than the first one.
Retreat route: It lies in the tourist trail, and it goes either to the Curmatura Bucurei the Enjoyment, or the mark up on the Tip of the Cross, and then go down to the lake to Enjoy.

Equipment


Muchia Mare

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