Ursul păcălit de vulpe 3A, 5a
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.04.2016

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3A
Rotpunkt grade: 5a
Type: Mixt

Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


Mechanical anchorsPitons

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Raluca Paută
Date: 2013

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1 (35m, 5-): the Route starts 10 feet to the left (and 3-4 feet below) towards the crest of Utopia (from The Ruins). Depart on an aisle with the sockets of the opposition, what is gradually turning into the dihedral open (keeping in the right ridge). Towards the end, the dihedron is open completely, becoming a face exposed, but with the rock clean. Then, pick up some rapids and get under a linden tree on the ridge, where regroup. In this place, coming from the right route Utopia (bringing together in the same place), and from the left, are added together (for the pool), the 4-5 trails (area ”Taofizica”) rock climbing (used for practicing insurance to the nuts / combined).
LC 2 (50m, 2+): Continue the joint with the route Utopia, on the ridge, about 20 meters (the ridge and having portions of the vertical and vegetation). We are in an area in which, on the brânele fallow from the right, it can even resort to an exit forced from the route. In the right of the last portions of the ridge horizontal, near an oak tree, it's the point of bifurcation: Utopia continues upward (to the left), on the ridge, and we, we deflect, downward to the left, next to a wall. The descent is made on the doorsteps exposed (sometimes with vegetation). At the end of the wall, climb up (upward to the left) on the thresholds of the fallen, until under a time marked with a ridge clear, and where, regroup between shrubs. From this point, we see on the left a lane, called Vâlcelul of Descent: it is the only place of descent from the routes of Large Walls, without bypass through the forest (the forest is very beautiful, and, if there's not enough time, it's worth a detour). We mention that from this point we can abandon the trail, on the detritus that descends to the left.
LC 3 (40m, 5+): We are committed on the ridge well pitonata, with the rock clean and with plugs quite affordable. At the end, exiting on time, we put some to the test: we must take a threshold without sockets (more in balance). From here, we cross some thresholds (with some vegetation), a little to the right, towards the base of a dihedral. At this point, coming from the right (in traverseu), rings of Utopia. Exiting the dihedral, it is common to the two routes. Dihedron (least exposed), we get some side skirts comfortable, where you can regroup.
The lengths are stretched out well, just need a few loops extended, and loops it's good to be longer. And if, in the winter (frost and snow), the trail Utopia it's still too easy, it may try and route my brother (the Bear tricked by the fox), in the conditions globes.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-ursu-pacalit-de-vulpe

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 06.7" E 22° 30' 58.2"    



Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: Adrian Paută



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GPS: N 46° 58' 06.7" E 22° 30' 58.2"