Utopia 2B, 4b/4b+
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.04.2016

General characteristics

Classic grade: 2B
Rotpunkt grade: 4b/4b+
Type: Mixt

Length: 2 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


Mechanical anchorsPitons

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Răzvan Mosoiu
Date: 2010

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1 (35m, 5-): the Route starts a few metres on a dihedral, slightly tilted on the left, which leads over a ridge and inclined with thresholds grass (full of pillows of snow). Continue to, mathematically the ridge, having left the wall, and on the right with some circus. Towards the end, the ridge becomes steep and with sockets rare, but if we divert a few meters to the right, on some jumpers with sockets conveniently, overcome the light passage. Continue up and slightly to the left, to exit on a time, where regroup under a linden tree towering. All this lime, comes in from the left to regroup, the route pair (the Bear Tricked by the Fox - UPV); and on the left, wine and ending on this time, and the routes of rock climbing (“Taofizica”... mainly at the nuts – combined), in the area At the Ruins.
LC 2 (60m, 3+): Continue the math on the ridge, at first given portions and horizontal ridges (even trees). The last portion of the ridge horizontal, near an oak tree, the leaves downward to the left, the route pair, UPV (which, up here, went common with Utopia – the piece on the ridge). We, however, not deviate to the left, but continue up on the ridge, slightly oriented to the left, but, attacking on the right side saritorile strung up on the ridge (there we always find outlets convenient). It follows a portion of the thresholds superimposed and fallow (uploaded by pillows of snow). At this point it's necessary a bit of guidance: on the right (or even up), some thresholds with rich vegetation (i.e. snow a lot), we can remove it prematurely from the route; if, however, cross the crest, to the left, and then on the next wall beyond the ridge (here are the needed loops as long), we do so a traverseu of 8-10 meters to the left, the sockets of the beautiful, then on the rapids loaded (snow), and, we arrive at the base of a dihedral short and sweet, slightly tilted to the right. At this point, the back (bottom-left), you see the rings of the UPV, which comes out on a schedule , you, it stings here in our route (the exit on the dihedral being common). Overcome passage diedrului, quite exposed (and full of snow), and we reach a threshold convenient, where they are belay station final, and where, it sees the panorama of the Gorge River (frozen solid).
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-utopia/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 06.7" E 22° 30' 58.2"    



Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: Adrian Paută



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GPS: N 46° 58' 06.7" E 22° 30' 58.2"