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Today we celebrate 61 years since Hornul Peretelui Central (Peretele Padinei Închise) first ascent

Fisura Berbecului 5B, 6b+/6c (5c, A1)
3,67/5 (3 votes)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (15)
  • Video (3)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 27.09.2014
edited by Mihai Daitoiu la data de 25.10.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route
 Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursă foto: Rupi (2019) 
Orientation: S
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsRoofCrackTreesGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Victor Măciucă, Gheorghe Udrea, Alexandru Stătescu
Date: 1953

Route description

Pitch 1: Fixed protections are bad. You climb quite enough, until you reach the first piton, which moves in the crack. Afterwards you climb between some trees, continue with a grassy portion with no fixed gear.

Pitch 2: Pitch starts with some very beautiful free climbing (best pitch from this route). The belay station is not so comfortable, but we can make a belay station a few meters below, using a tree, after traversing a small ridge.

Pitch 3: This pitch is also very nice, but the belay station is a few meters below a roof, consisting in 3 not so great pitons.

Pitch 4: We climb until we reach the roof (after passing some loose rock slabs). The pitch is not so hard, and if you aid climb (pulling on one protection) you are over the roof.

Pitch 5: It is the hardest free climbing pitch of the route. But it can be done aid climbing. You basically have protection every half meter. Next belay station is in a small cave, through we traverse to the other side of the mountain.

Pitch 6: Not a hard pitch, but with few fixed gear (4-5 pitons). After 45 m we can make a belay station at a small tree and a few cams. If the rope drag is not so high we can reach the forest after 5m.
Information source
danabaza.blogspot.ro - http://danabaza.blogspot.ro/2010/11/fisura-berbecului-si-noapte-sub-stele.html
Topo - Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/05/caraiman-tr-fisura-berbecului-5b.html

Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 24' 29.9" E 25° 30' 38.2"    
Access route: From the Mountain Rescue small hut (near Vâlcelul Înspumat - Foamy Gully) we hike through the waterfalls of Vâlcelul Înspumat, and turn left on the first gully. This small gully goes over săritoarea lui Magheru (the steep wall which we see from the Mountain Rescue hut), then it becomes very muddy and steep. The route starts from the saddle (the flat section) at the end of this gully.
Retreat route: After we finish the route, in the forest we search for the tree with red rope around it from which we abseil. We down climb the gully, making a few abseils on the way down. We return at the same place we started, at the Mountain Rescue Hut.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu

Pictures

Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursă foto: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Diaries & links


 Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursă foto: Rupi (2019)

Users who climbed the route


Alexandru Baran - 30.08.2019
 - 30.08.2019Pana in strunga din LC 5, apoi rapel peste perete. Traseul este superb.
Alexandru Baran - 25.08.2019
 - 25.08.2019Doar primele 3 lungimi. A venit ploaia
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
 - 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it

Video -  Goran Ciprian GORBY  - 23.09.2020

Video - Mihai Sava - 27.06.2020

Video - Bogdan Boja - 04.08.2012

Map

GPS: N 45° 24' 29.9" E 25° 30' 38.2"    
Access route: From the Mountain Rescue small hut (near Vâlcelul Înspumat - Foamy Gully) we hike through the waterfalls of Vâlcelul Înspumat, and turn left on the first gully. This small gully goes over săritoarea lui Magheru (the steep wall which we see from the Mountain Rescue hut), then it becomes very muddy and steep. The route starts from the saddle (the flat section) at the end of this gully.
Retreat route: After we finish the route, in the forest we search for the tree with red rope around it from which we abseil. We down climb the gully, making a few abseils on the way down. We return at the same place we started, at the Mountain Rescue Hut.

Equipment

 Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursă foto: Rupi (2019)

Comments