Today we celebrate 87 years since Spălătura Văii Seci (Văi şi brâne) first ascent

Fisura Berbecului (Ram's Crack) 5B, 7+ (6, A1)
4,00/5 (1 vote)




2428 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (15)
  • Video (1)
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 27.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

 Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursa foto: Rupi (2019) 
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsRoofCrackTreesGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Victor Măciucă, Gheorghe Udrea, Alexandru Stătescu
Date: 1953


Route description

Pitch 1: Fixed protections are bad. You climb quite enough, until you reach the first piton, which moves in the crack. Afterwards you climb between some trees, continue with a grassy portion with no fixed gear.

Pitch 2: Pitch starts with some very beautiful free climbing (best pitch from this route). The belay station is not so comfortable, but we can make a belay station a few meters below, using a tree, after traversing a small ridge.

Pitch 3: This pitch is also very nice, but the belay station is a few meters below a roof, consisting in 3 not so great pitons.

Pitch 4: We climb until we reach the roof (after passing some loose rock slabs). The pitch is not so hard, and if you aid climb (pulling on one protection) you are over the roof.

Pitch 5: It is the hardest free climbing pitch of the route. But it can be done aid climbing. You basically have protection every half meter. Next belay station is in a small cave, through we traverse to the other side of the mountain.

Pitch 6: Not a hard pitch, but with few fixed gear (4-5 pitons). After 45 m we can make a belay station at a small tree and a few cams. If the rope drag is not so high we can reach the forest after 5m.
Information source
danabaza.blogspot.ro - http://danabaza.blogspot.ro/2010/11/fisura-berbecului-si-noapte-sub-stele.html
Topo - Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/05/caraiman-tr-fisura-berbecului-5b.html

Access and retreat

Access route: From the Mountain Rescue small hut (near Vâlcelul Înspumat - Foamy Gully) we hike through the waterfalls of Vâlcelul Înspumat, and turn left on the first gully. This small gully goes over săritoarea lui Magheru (the steep wall which we see from the Mountain Rescue hut), then it becomes very muddy and steep. The route starts from the saddle (the flat section) at the end of this gully.
Retreat route: After we finish the route, in the forest we search for the tree with red rope around it from which we abseil. We down climb the gully, making a few abseils on the way down. We return at the same place we started, at the Mountain Rescue Hut.

Topo

Topo

Sursa: Mihai Daitoiu

Pictures


Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Users who climbed the route


Andrei - 29.09.2019
- 29.09.2019
Andrei - 30.08.2019
- 30.08.2019Pana in strunga din LC 5, apoi rapel peste perete. Traseul este superb.
Alexandru Baran - 30.08.2019
- 30.08.2019Pana in strunga din LC 5, apoi rapel peste perete. Traseul este superb.
Andrei - 25.08.2019
- 25.08.2019Doar primele 3 lungimi. A venit ploaia
Adi Min - 25.08.2019
- 25.08.2019Doar primele 3 lungimi. A venit ploaia
Alexandru Baran - 25.08.2019
- 25.08.2019Doar primele 3 lungimi. A venit ploaia
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Bogdan Boja - 04.08.2012

Map



Access route: From the Mountain Rescue small hut (near Vâlcelul Înspumat - Foamy Gully) we hike through the waterfalls of Vâlcelul Înspumat, and turn left on the first gully. This small gully goes over săritoarea lui Magheru (the steep wall which we see from the Mountain Rescue hut), then it becomes very muddy and steep. The route starts from the saddle (the flat section) at the end of this gully.
Retreat route: After we finish the route, in the forest we search for the tree with red rope around it from which we abseil. We down climb the gully, making a few abseils on the way down. We return at the same place we started, at the Mountain Rescue Hut.

Equipment


Vedere din Valea Jepilor Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Comments