Ulise (Odyssey) 6A
4,50/5 (2 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 05.01.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 9-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Ulise 
Orientation: S
Length: 8 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 300 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsAid climbingGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Alexandru Pătraşcu
Repaired: Titus Gonţea
First rotpunkt ascent: Titus Gonţea
Date: 2001


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The length of the first chord starts to crack clear, a lot of grass. In the middle of the length we are going to steer left on crestuli?a slightly crumbly and without pitons (up to aggregators, we're not going to have it, but not hard), leaving on the right a small vâlcel. The output of the aggregators, loosened and lots of land. The first rearrangement is brâna shared with Catrinel Route, just that little bit more right, and spit on.

The second long run on the other crack filled with greenery. Sometimes the crack is filled with dirt. At the half, where we encounter a small surplombi?a, the wall becomes more clear. Access to the redistribution of the above, meters with good insurance and the earth the earth is full and loose.

The third length runs to the right, then up, on crack. At some point we will see cordelina in the hourglass, on the left side. At this point we will start traverseu short left (to make sure the loop is long), and then continue up to a small grass brâni?a. The length is nice and compact, without grass.

The fourth length. Here are some redistribution of the administrative centre, where Catrinel left goes on to the lungs and then chimneyule? vertically, while the Odyssey starts in the right lane “burtici” (read surplombi?e) to cut out cracks that seem to be not necessarily insured from the first sight. Small surplombi?e not very heavy and well secured. With a little attention and proper positioning on the feet may be out of date, because immediately after the passage of a few on the left to lead to the redistribution uncomfortable.

Fifth, the length of the “artificial length” listed in the mouth with a degree of 9- (7b?). O to vertical beautiful stretches above us, pierced the thin crack many pitons. Part pitonata well, but not as good as you, from cycle to cycle. Need of the stapes. After 10 km we traversed right to catch the insurance of fixed assets. We continue up to old expansor, where we pass through a small crestuli?a, where begins the zone of high grassy, and we regroup more than 5 m (regrouping is not very visible because of the herbs).

Pitoanelor line length of the sixth turned to the right, aiming at the chimney top. To begin with, to climb vertically, and then a small traverseu to the left and then to the right before belay station. It is not difficult, but the outlet is covered by vegetation and the distance between pitons more give us emotions. Can I install mobile.

Crossing to the left in the direction of the chimney reports, the entry in the seventh the length of the chord, which you don't want to miss. Sprai?, Bavarian, everything is permitted. To the point length, well secured to the wooden wedge, which announces the beginning of the area about 7 m of insurance". To the tree I don't think keeping something in the fall, but the area is provided with mobile devices. He goes to the High ridge of the Face.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2013/11/19/traseul-ulise-fata-inalta-masivul-postavarul/
Silvia Murgescu (poză perete) - http://www.silvique.ro/2010/05/20100501-catarare-catrinel-si-bita-in.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: This review coincides with Catrinel: we are about 10 m on rocky vâlcel, and then keep the path close to the ridge, about 5-10 minutes and make left on rocky vâlcel (third). Below the inclined surface quite clear on the trail is thin and steep, which leads to the base of the wall.

Or (for those with half ropes on 60m!) after passing the length of 7-(p-th), rapelam back on it, before belay station on spituri. Then rapelam fix down 4 rapeluri (Guard) to the base of the wall.

Topo

Topo

Ulise
schițe trasee alpinism perete Fața Înaltă, Masivul Postăvarultrasee alpinism perete Fața Înaltă, Masivul Postăvarul

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Ulise

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Diaries



Ulise

User who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 29.04.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 31.05.2015, Vara
Vlad Grigore - 31.05.2015, Vara
Andrei Holban - 09.05.2015, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,55549070121753E+15°0.0' E 2,55486464246674E+16°0.0'    
Retreat route: This review coincides with Catrinel: we are about 10 m on rocky vâlcel, and then keep the path close to the ridge, about 5-10 minutes and make left on rocky vâlcel (third). Below the inclined surface quite clear on the trail is thin and steep, which leads to the base of the wall.

Or (for those with half ropes on 60m!) after passing the length of 7-(p-th), rapelam back on it, before belay station on spituri. Then rapelam fix down 4 rapeluri (Guard) to the base of the wall.

Equipment


Ulise

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