Today we celebrate 61 years since Trandafirul Negru (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent

Ulise 6A, 7b (6a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 28.02.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7b
Type: Classic route

 Ulise 
Orientation: S
Length: 8 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 300 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsAid climbingGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Alexandru Pătraşcu
Repaired: Titus Gonţea
Date: 02.12.2000
First rotpunkt ascent: Titus Gonţea
Date: 09.12.2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first pitch of the chord starts on a tear, clear, with a lot of weed. By the middle of the length, we will shift to the left on a crestuli?a slightly crumbly, and with no hands (up in the pool we don't have it, but not so hard, either), but in the right-hand side of a small valley. The output of the division is crumbly, and with a lot of water. The first pool is located on the girdle of the common Route, Catrinel, it's just a little bit more to the right, and the spit-ups.

The next long run on the other crack filled with herbs. Sometimes the crack is filled with dirt. At the half, where we encounter a slight surplombi?a, the wall becomes more and more pure. The output of the aggregation is displayed, the meters, good insurance, and the ground full of soil, and friable and non-friable.

A third length of run to the right and then up the crack. At some point we'll see a rope you in like an hourglass on the left-hand side. At that point, we have to go to traverseu the short left side (of the loop that long), and then work our way up to a brâni?a a small pot. A long, beautiful and compact design, no grass.

The fourth one's length. Here, it is kind of a grouping shares a common Catrinel go to the left on one side for easy in and then there is a chimneyule? vertical plane, while Ulysses turns to the right on a number of a “belly” (see surplombi?e) cut by a crack, which I don't seem to necessarily be provided at the first sight. The little surplombi?e they are not very heavy and are well secured. With a little bit of attention, and proper positioning on the feet, it can be overcome, for as soon as they pass short left to drive in a staging position.

The fifth length is “the length of the artificial”, listed in the red to the extent of 9- (7b?). A vertical face, beautiful stretches above us, punctured by the crack smooth with a lot of hands. The portion of the well pitonata, but it's not so much how to get out of the loop-the-loop. It is in need of a step stool. After about 10 km we will cross over to the right in order to catch the line of the security assets. We're going to continue all the way up to a spreader of old, we're going to go over a little crestuli?a, where are you starting from an area with a strong, green roof, and will bring together more than a 5 metre (the grouping is not very visible because of the grass).

The line of the pitonslor of the length of the sixth, is the side facing to the right, aiming for the top. We will start by climbing a vertical and then a small traverseu the left side, then right side up in the pool. It is not difficult, but the outlets are covered by the vegetation and the greater distance between the hands to give us emotions. You can mount it to your mobile.

The crossing of the left hand at the chimney announcing the entrance of the one-seventh the length of the string, that you can't miss it. Sprai?, success, anything goes. Up to a certain point, the length is well secured, by a wedge of wood, which heralds the beginning of an area of about 7 m in insurance. By the wood, I don't think I take anything in the fall, but the work provided by the mobile. It's coming out on the crest of the Face of the High.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2013/11/19/traseul-ulise-fata-inalta-masivul-postavarul/
Silvia Murgescu (poză perete) - http://www.silvique.ro/2010/05/20100501-catarare-catrinel-si-bita-in.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 17.6" E 25° 32' 55.1"    
Retreat route: The withdrawal is the same as the one in the Catrinel: it is up to about 10 m in a valley of rocky, and then there's a trail close to the ridge, about 5 to 10 minutes and make a left on to a valley of rocky (the third one). Below the descent is fairly clear, on a trail, thin and steep, which leads to the base of the wall.

Or (for those of you with a half ropes to 60m!) after the completion of the length of the 7. (with chimney), rapelam back on it, to try and regroup on the expansion bolts. Then rapelam fix it in another 4 boosters (the Iron Guard) down to the base of the wall.

Topo

Topo

Ulise
schițe trasee alpinism perete Fața Înaltă, Masivul Postăvarultrasee alpinism perete Fața Înaltă, Masivul Postăvarul

Pictures


Ulise

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Diaries & links



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Users who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 29.04.2018, Vara
- 29.04.2018Fără lungimea 7 (retragere în rapel pe „Garda de fier”)
Vlad Grigore - 31.05.2015, Vara
- 31.05.2015Fara ultima lungime
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Titus Gontea - 10.02.2021

Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 17.6" E 25° 32' 55.1"    
Retreat route: The withdrawal is the same as the one in the Catrinel: it is up to about 10 m in a valley of rocky, and then there's a trail close to the ridge, about 5 to 10 minutes and make a left on to a valley of rocky (the third one). Below the descent is fairly clear, on a trail, thin and steep, which leads to the base of the wall.

Or (for those of you with a half ropes to 60m!) after the completion of the length of the 7. (with chimney), rapelam back on it, to try and regroup on the expansion bolts. Then rapelam fix it in another 4 boosters (the Iron Guard) down to the base of the wall.

Equipment


Ulise

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