Catrinel (Catrinel) 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6+/7-
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+/8-
Type: Classic route

 Catrinel 
Orientation: S
Length: 9 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 300 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsAid climbingGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Genu), Felicia Enache, Gheorghe Gadici, Ioan Neagoe (Nuşu), Răzvan Budac
First rotpunkt ascent: Titus Gonţea
Date: 2001


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first 6 lengths have been opened by Gheorghe Enache (Genu) and Felicia Enache and finished on the last 2 lengths of the chord of the Ion Neagoe (Nu?u).

The departure in the route is marked with paint on the left wall of the Front High in the right of a arcade with the orientation left.

The first pitch starts on a crack clear, after which it bends slightly right following the line of the other cracks and thresholds. Rings indicates the overcoming through the right side of the ceiling looming above, and then route out a wider one, that full of earth, grass and boulders fallen. On this field of battle is the first belay station.
Attention to the orientation! The first 3 lengths of Catrinel is located very close to the route of Odysseus, which is immediately on the right. The first belay station of Catrinel are located on the same brâna with the belay station of Odysseus, the difference being that the pool of Ulysses has a spit while Catrinel has only pitons.

The second length is the hardest of the route (steps 7+/8-) and across a vertical face, well secured. Depending on the height of the ca?aratorului and its preparation, might be required stirrups. For the climbers well prepared, the length is very ca?arabila and very beautiful as the steps. The output in the belay station of the brâna is again uninsured and on the ground dirty (I don't even have a place to stay in insurance).

The third length crosses the very least in the right of the pool, shifting to the left in a length easy and beautiful. Regrouping with output on a wider one, that dirty and with grass.

The fourth length starts 3-4 m on the left to a piton with a ring found on the girdle of grass with belay station. Of here rings lead to a dihedral rated by step by 6+/7-very well assured. The two-flat turns into a crack filled with grass that leads to a belay station suspended and uneasy.

The fifth length starts slightly right towards a ceiling which is clearly seen above. After 15 km cross the obliquely right under an archway without insurance fixed. Cross then to the left, to the ceiling of the great, where we cross and to the right, under the ceiling, pooling on a wider one, that. It is a long easy and more clean than the previous one.

The length of the sixth to go in the top circus of grass up to the base of an upper compact, where climbing is more artificial. It goes right oblique to 15 m, and then obliquely left, then to the buttress vertically upwards.

The length of the seventh exceeds a face, then we engage in a traverseu long to the left, at the end of which we'll regroup.

Eighth length is the last most difficult, what has a line slightly sinuous in the top rated with the steps of the 7-. The route is very well secured, so that no steps heavier does not create emotions.
The new length is represented by a ridge slight lead in the top of the Face High.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2012/10/02/traseul-catrinel-fata-inalta-masivul-postavarul/
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2010/05/20100501-catarare-catrinel-si-bita-in.html
Poză Nagy Rudolf (Rudi).

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 17.6" E 25° 32' 55.1"    
Retreat route: The withdrawal is identical to that of Odysseus: they climb about 10 feet on a valley of rocky, then take a trail close to the ridge, about 5-10 minutes and make a left on a valley of rocky (the third). Below descent is quite clear, on a trail, thin and steep, which leads to the base of the wall.

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Catrinel
schițe trasee alpinism perete Fața Înaltă, Masivul Postăvarultrasee alpinism perete Fața Înaltă, Masivul Postăvarul

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GPS: N 45° 33' 17.6" E 25° 32' 55.1"    
Retreat route: The withdrawal is identical to that of Odysseus: they climb about 10 feet on a valley of rocky, then take a trail close to the ridge, about 5-10 minutes and make a left on a valley of rocky (the third). Below descent is quite clear, on a trail, thin and steep, which leads to the base of the wall.

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Catrinel

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