Today we celebrate 84 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent

Coţofana (Magpie) 5A, 7/7+
5,00/5 (3 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 30.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Rotpunkt grade: 7/7+
Type: Classic route

 Coţofana 
Orientation: S
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 120 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsFace climbingTraverseDihedralGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Genu), László Kerestesz, Petre Gábor, Ştefan Ionescu, Felicia Enache
Date: 1987


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Departs vertically, through an area of something more buruienoasa. Go next to the tree vertically, across the rapids covered with earth and grass, streamlining very slightly to the right. We follow the line of the pitons which, about 10-15 m, deviates to the left reaching a belay station intermediate made up of two cams connected with the rope. Above we have a face devoid of sockets, so we will continue diagonal left, over thresholds large, a few metres away. Continue the vertical reaching a portion with a small step of the 6/6+ will be raised above it, at a brîna of grass. Go through brîna to the right, about 8 m, until the belay station at the base of the arch, the pool solid, with 2 expansion bolts and a piton.Length 60 m stretched, if the first mate goes up to the last big tree.

LC2 - Leaves towards the base of the arch continuing on the dihedron formed by it. The crack formed by the dihedral and the outlets from the feet helps us to get easily to the curvature of the arch, through then to the left, under it. The arch, although it looks impressive, has the plugs reverse of healthy, and at his feet find enough plugs. At the end of the arch we climb up a dihedral, the vertical degree 6+, with the large plugs on the right. After 30 km regroup suspended two expansion bolts and two pitons.

LC3 - From the pool continue horizontally to the left, over an area devoid of sockets, to a python knocked at about 2 m. Before him lies a pocket big on that, if we're longer in the arms and we lie well, we manage to catch him. Once assured that python passes everything to the left towards a small fissure that forms an edge pronounced beyond that I'm trapped in an hourglass for a few loops of rope. Keeping with the right of this edge lie to the left as we can prinzînd one pocket good, passing over the step of the route, step rated with 7/7+. If you're smaller in the arms can use the loops of string left especially in the wall.
Once past this step and secured the second python the trail climbs vertically up to about 8-10m above the a beetle provided with two cams. Get overhanging climbing diagonally left, step rated with 6+/7-continue all to the left under a big archway. Intersect the route of the Lamb, the Gentle, that we, through a chimney end, until the last belay station.The length is 35 m and the step estimated at 7/7+.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2013/10/11/traseul-cotofana-masivul-postavarul/
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/04/traseul-cotofana-3lc-77.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In Poiana Flax, the last glade of the Keys Râ?noavelor before the barrier, climbs up to the left through the forest on a valley obvious until towards the end of it. Before we're out of the woods on the scree, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. Our route is the last of the wall, marked with black at the base.
Retreat route: With ropes of 60m descent can be done in just two boosts using as an intermediate point R2 of the Lamb the Gentlest. Otherwise, it can descend through the forest from behind the wall, on a trail in a zig-zag that leads to the far right wall and then returns to its base.

Topo

Topo

Coţofana

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Coţofana

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Diaries & links



Coţofana

Users who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019
Cristian Popescu - 14.10.2018, Vara
- 14.10.2018Cap lungimile 1 si 3. Rotpunkt lungimile 1 si 2. Clasic L3.
Razvan Hotea - 14.10.2018, Vara
- 14.10.2018Cap lungimile 1 si 3. Rotpunkt lungimile 1 si 2. Clasic L3.
Adi Min - 29.09.2018, Vara
- 29.09.2018
Valentin Mozes - 29.09.2018, Vara
- 29.09.2018
Razvan Hotea - 13.05.2018
- 13.05.2018
Iulian Pobleanu - 13.05.2018
- 13.05.2018
Andrei - 26.10.2013
- 26.10.2013
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Rosmalin Alin
Iulia Darie

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In Poiana Flax, the last glade of the Keys Râ?noavelor before the barrier, climbs up to the left through the forest on a valley obvious until towards the end of it. Before we're out of the woods on the scree, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. Our route is the last of the wall, marked with black at the base.
Retreat route: With ropes of 60m descent can be done in just two boosts using as an intermediate point R2 of the Lamb the Gentlest. Otherwise, it can descend through the forest from behind the wall, on a trail in a zig-zag that leads to the far right wall and then returns to its base.

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Coţofana

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