Today we celebrate Oliver Batâr, who reached the beautiful age of 47 years. Happy birthday!. Today we celebrate 66 years since Fisura Galbenă (Vârful şi Creasta Picătura) first ascent

Cangurul (The kangaroo) 4B, 7- (6+, A0)
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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (32)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (2)
added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 15.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Ciri Turcanu 
Orientation: S
Length: 3 - 4 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 120 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsFace climbingGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Genu), Paul Alboteanu
Date: 1987


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Going vertical in the diagram below with the name of the route, and after 5 to 6 m, we get the first insurance policy, almost, we still have a ball python, then a few yards through the undergrowth, where it is recommended that you do not slip. You can mount a nut in the offset when we come up on the wall. It's going vertical, and then after about 20/25m to meet a first grouping of intermediate is formed in the hands connected to the rope. On the right of the pool crossing slightly right of the 2-m and get it crack the that up until the appointment of a pin P to a new. Here is the step-length, as quoted by me on the 6+. 2 m. above the crack shall be finished with a plate at the bottom of which is a doorway with a pot across it to the left about 2/3 of m's by the pool, taking in the hands of the sockets of the reverse quite low, and an anchor on the top. The length is about 50 m, and is well-equipped.

LC2 - Go slightly left and then climb up vertically, and then pass it to the left for about 5 metres until it is use a funnel that goes by we get by, a pool of intermediate that one can do is make sure the loop is long. The pool across the right side about 3 m, and then climb up the vertical crack until it is on the left-hand side of a small shoulder of rock on which the cross over into a pool set, with 5 hands. To the degree the length I don't think it'll be better than the 6/6+, and the length is 25 feet.

LC3 - It goes up a little bit to the right and then up and down like a 12/15m before it gets to python with a rope of red, a sort of stirrup, or anou, left by someone who couldn't get out in the open. You have to cross left to a crack, a sign that we've got a few more power sockets good on your hands. Here is the hardest part of the route is estimated by me on the 7th. It goes up vertically to catch on a chimney, take it easy (on grass and soil) that we keep about 25 metres up in the pool. Warning: At one point, on the left hand side there is a platform, where we have what a lot came out of the line of the route, and where we need to go for a long loop, possibly with an anou. The length is 45 feet.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2014/03/traseul-cangurul-din-peretele_23.html
Completări - Rupi
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Poză - Ciri Turcanu - https://get.google.com/albumarchive/101788338587278580707/album/AF1QipNFJ_KEaPQ1VEAUd7Qs-w16HmSrpmTExy55ruUt

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In the Glade, In it goes up through the woods in a valley a weak outline and then turn right onto the trail, well beaten, which we get under the wall, where we're looking for the name of the route.
Retreat route: 1. the three boosters on the line of the route. The pools are below the chain links quickly.
b. the three simbols in the low 30s on the line, the pink Panther, or one of 60 m and is stretched to its limits (be careful not to the ends), and one from 30 yards. Spit in the pool.
The 2 - stepped diagonally to the right (there's a python) to the trough above the pool of the Lamb, the Meek and the return of 8-10 m up in it (I've left a link fast the anchor up out of the gutter) and with the two boosts on the ropes, 60 m, you reach the base of the wall.
3 - climb up to the forest (on the left of the slightly diagonal, about 6 feet from the pool you can see a ball python), but the ground is unstable and full of grass and bushes and hardly worth the effort.

Topo

Topo

Cangurul

Pictures


Sursă: Ciri Turcanu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Ciri Turcanu

Users who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 09.11.2019
- 09.11.2019
Jabon - 09.11.2019
- 09.11.2019
Adi Min - 13.07.2019
- 13.07.2019
Dorin Cristea - 13.07.2019
- 13.07.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 26.05.2019
- 26.05.2019
Jabon - 26.05.2019
- 26.05.2019
Adi Min - 12.05.2019, Vara
- 12.05.2019
Horjea Eugen - 12.05.2019, Vara
- 12.05.2019
Adi Min - 26.04.2019, Vara
- 26.04.2019
Jabon - 26.04.2019, Vara
- 26.04.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 14.10.2018
- 14.10.2018
Oana Cindea - 14.10.2018
- 14.10.2018
Razvan Hotea - 22.09.2018, Vara
- 22.09.2018Retragerea se face prin 2 rapeluri, unul din R3 si unul din regruparea cu pitoane noi si multe corzi si cordeline.
Rosmalin Alin - 01.04.2017, Vara
- 01.04.2017
Andrei - 21.04.2014
- 21.04.2014
Adi Min - 10.11.2013, Vara
- 10.11.2013
LauraB - 10.11.2013, Vara
- 10.11.2013
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 26.04.2019

Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In the Glade, In it goes up through the woods in a valley a weak outline and then turn right onto the trail, well beaten, which we get under the wall, where we're looking for the name of the route.
Retreat route: 1. the three boosters on the line of the route. The pools are below the chain links quickly.
b. the three simbols in the low 30s on the line, the pink Panther, or one of 60 m and is stretched to its limits (be careful not to the ends), and one from 30 yards. Spit in the pool.
The 2 - stepped diagonally to the right (there's a python) to the trough above the pool of the Lamb, the Meek and the return of 8-10 m up in it (I've left a link fast the anchor up out of the gutter) and with the two boosts on the ropes, 60 m, you reach the base of the wall.
3 - climb up to the forest (on the left of the slightly diagonal, about 6 feet from the pool you can see a ball python), but the ground is unstable and full of grass and bushes and hardly worth the effort.

Equipment


Sursă: Ciri Turcanu

Comments